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EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 



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EUROPEAN TRAVEL 
FOR WOMEN 



NOTES AND SUGGESTIONS 

BY / 

MARY CADWALADER JONES 



THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 

LONDON: MACMILLAN & CO., Ltd. 
1900 

All rights reserved 



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Copyright, 1900, 
By the MACMILLAN COMPANY. 






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3. S. Gushing & Co. — Berwick & Smith 
Norwood Mass. U.S.A. 



TO 

MY TWO COMPANIONS 

ON MANY PLEASANT JOURNEYS 



PREFACE 

In looking through the various guide-books 
of all kinds which accumulate in the course of 
travel, it occurred to me that there was none 
intended especially for the use of women, to 
suggest what they had better take with them 
in going abroad for the first time, and to tell 
them how they can get about most comfortably 
after landing. 

Year by year an increasing number of women 
travel in Europe, often in parties which do not 
include a man, and there is no reason why they 
should not, as the pleasure and profit to be 
gained are far more than worth the trouble 
which must be taken, while that is less in many 
ways than in this country, because in the places 
which most people wish to visit everything has 
long been organized with reference to the con- 
venience of tourists. 

Crossing the ocean, however, differs from an 

ordinary journey, and, after one has landed, 
vii 



vill PREFACE 

whether in England or on the Continent, every- 
thing at first seems unfamiliar. The rules as 
to the registration of luggage, the system of 
hotel management, and the fees or tips which 
must be constantly given, are only a few in- 
stances of the wide differences which exist 
between the conditions of travel here and in 
Europe, while there are many little comforts 
of which one appreciates the value through 
having forgotten to bring them. 

Most of us have to learn by the slow and 
laborious process of asking questions, taking 
advice, and, above all, by making mistakes ; but 
it is at least possible to offer the result of one's 
personal experience, and that of other women, 
which is what I have tried to do in the fol- 
lowing pages. 

At the end of the book I have given a com- 
parative table of the different thermometers 
used in Europe, a few of the metric measures 
and weights, with our equivalents for them, a 
number of words which are used in a different 
sense here and in England, as well as French 
terms which are often wrongly translated, and 
some simple phrases in French, Italian, and 



PREFACE IX 

German. There is also a list of guide-books, 
and of some works of history or fiction relating 
to certain places; this does not claim to be 
complete, but may be of interest. 

If my work has any value, the credit is in a 
great part due to the friends who have helped 
me with their criticism and counsel, and to 
them I offer here my heartiest thanks. 

MARY CADWALADER JONES. 



CONTENTS 

PAOB 

Introduction 1 

Preparations for the Journey . . . . 21 

GuiDE-BooKS, Dictionaries, and Novels . . 60 

About Bicycles 67 

Crossing the Ocean 73 

England 84 

France 129 

Germany 174 

Italy 190 

Some Terms used differently in America and in 

England 249 

French Words sosietimes Mistranslated . . 253 
Comparison of Reaumur, Fahrenheit, and Centi- 
grade Thermometers ...... 256 

Measures 257 

Foreign Pronunciation 258 

Some Useful Phrases 260 

A Few Verbs 290 

xi 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR 
WOMEN 

INTRODUCTION 

Even at the risk of seeming ungracious, which 
I certainly do not intend, I must begin by say- 
ing that unless travellers are willing to leave 
national prejudices behind them, and ready to 
see whatever is characteristic and excellent in 
a foreign country, without finding fault because 
it is unfamiliar, they had better remain at home. 
Americans are among the worst offenders in 
this regard; and there is no greater nuisance 
than the man who growls because he cannot get 
buckwheat cakes, or the woman who fusses 
when she has to do without iced-water. If 
people carry fixed habits from place to place, as 
the tortoise does its shell, they will be wise to 
arrange their journeys so as to permit of their 
remaining in countries where they may be com- 
fortable without too much effort. For instance, 
when they are absolutely dependent upon a 

B 1 



Z EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

substantial breakfast, they should not go further 
than the United Kingdom, or, at any rate, not 
beyond a few of the large Continental cities, 
where there are hotels adapted for crowds of 
English and Americans ; in the more out-of- 
the-way places in France, Italy, or Germany, a 
request for meat with the first meal would cause 
as much surprise as if one ordered plum-pudding, 
although the peasants often begin their day 
with a bowl of soup. 

Remember, when you go to a strange country, 
that its inhabitants have not sent for you ; you 
go among them, presumably, of your own accord, 
and their manners and customs cannot possibly 
seem stranger to you than yours do to them. 
It is scarcely worth while to go to Europe for 
the purpose of proclaiming all the time that 
America is in every way better ; if that is your 
opinion you may show it by going home, and 
never leaving it again, but while you are abroad 
try to get all the pleasure and profit possible out 
of the visit. Differences of usage often seem 
much greater than they really are ; what strikes 
you as wrong or uncommon is, in reality, for 
that particular place, correct and normal; there- 
fore you should try to compel yourself to look 
at things, in so far as you can, from the point of 



INTRODUCTION 3 

view of the average citizen of the place where 
you may happen to be. 

Travelling for women who have no man to 
look after them is easier and more convenient 
in Europe than it is here. In the smallest 
railway stations, for instance, there are always 
porters, or at least idle men and boys, ready to 
take your hand luggage; and the whole ma- 
chinery of hotel-keeping and transportation is 
carried into greater detail than with us. Then, 
too, the custom of giving tips or gratuities has 
a wonderfully softening effect upon the manners 
of those who hope to receive them, and even 
when there can be no question of such reward, 
it has been my experience that people are al- 
most uniformly willing and anxious to save one 
trouble and to help one in every way. 

It is a great mistake to take children to 
Europe unless you mean to settle down some- 
where, as if you move about much they are a 
nuisance to your fellow-travellers, and if they 
are made to go to museums and galleries while 
too young to appreciate what is in them, they 
will probably loathe that form of education for 
the rest of their lives, as many of us hate some 
of the masterpieces of literature from having 
been made to drudge over them at school. 



4 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

The average sightseer, especially at first, is 
almost sure to attempt too much. At a certain 
state of fatigue, enjoyment ceases at the time, 
and memory will not serve you afterward, so 
that you will be forced to say, like poor Cassio, 
" I remember a mass of things, but nothing dis- 
tinctly." Most people go abroad with the ex- 
pectation of gaining strength by their trip, but 
many of them return home fairly tired out by 
rushing through beautiful scenery and places 
as if their whole preoccupation had been to get 
to the end of them in the shortest possible 
time. 

There are two sensible ways of planning a 
first visit to Europe. One is, to travel quickly 
over much ground, and go to many places, but 
not to wear yourself out by attempting to see 
any of them thoroughly. This is a very ex- 
pensive method, and only the most striking 
things impress themselves upon the mind, but 
still there is an impression, as well as a sense of 
the contrasts between different countries, and 
in case it is unlikely that you will ever go 
abroad again, your mental horizon has been 
widened for the rest of your life. 

The second way is to see some country, or 
part of it, as thoroughly as you possibly can, 



INTRODUCTION 5 

and this is of course much more satisfactory if 
you can give the time to it. A summer in 
England or a winter in Italy, while giving a 
very fair idea of what those countries are like, 
will probably make you long to know them 
still better, and to study after you have come 
home in the hope of going back there some day 
with a more intelligent curiosity than you could 
have had at first. 

If you are thinking of travelling in summer, 
and say to your friends that you intend to see 
something of southern France and Italy, as well 
as of Great Britain, they will assure you that you 
will suffer dreadfully from the heat, and will 
probably die of sunstroke or of some terrible 
local fever. The reason for this widespread 
belief is that the original guide-books for use 
on the Continent were written by and for 
Englishmen, who are usually uncomfortable if 
the thermometer goes over seventy degrees 
Fahrenheit. 

The German and French guide-books have 
copied them in regard to countries not their 
own, but, as a matter of fact, any healthy Amer- 
ican who can stand one of our summers will 
find nothing to dread short of the real tropics. 
Rome in July or August is not nearly so hot as 



6 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

Washington, and as for the mosquitoes which are 
said to make Venice intolerable in September, 
any one of their able-bodied American cousins 
can do more execution than a dozen of them. 
We naturally associate the idea of heat with 
the south, but many cities of southern Europe 
are cooler than others farther north. Naples, 
for instance, is never as hot as Florence, 
because, like New York, it has the sea breeze 
at night. This even holds good as to Palermo, 
which is cool compared with Milan. The cli- 
mate of Central and Southern Europe is, how- 
ever, more relaxing than ours, and the heat often 
holds steadily day after day, which is fatiguing. 
If people tried as hard to catch typhoid and 
malarial fevers at home as they do abroad, they 
would certainly succeed quite as well, and yet 
they persist in laying the blame upon a foreign 
climate. Nobody here would dream, after a 
brisk walk in a sunny street, of poking about 
for half an hour in a mouldy cellar without an 
extra wrap ; but put the cellar in Italy and 
call it the crypt of a church, and the proceed- 
ing is apparently considered reasonable. In the 
same way, while travellers admire the pictu- 
resque sights of a mediseval town, they turn 
up their noses at its evil smells, and yet con- 



INTRODUCTION 7 

fidingly drink water from some unknown well 
or spring, which is probably mediaeval also, and 
then wonder that one of the party developes a 
fever which could have been taken with less 
trouble from the nearest polluted pump at 
home. If you will only abide strictly by three 
rules you may go anywhere in Europe during 
the summer months with perfect impunity, 
except, of course, to certain places which the 
natives acknowledge to be unhealthy at some 
seasons, and even then, with ordinary precau- 
tions, you may be as safe as in malarious dis- 
tricts here. These are the simple precepts : — 

Don't get overheated and then chilled. 

Don't go too long without eating. 

Don't drink water unless you are sure it is 
good. 

The journey once decided upon, all the leis- 
ure you can get beforehand will not be too 
much for preparation, as it is always more 
satisfactory to follow a definite plan, unless 
one has indefinite time. It is also advisable 
to read up on what you particularly wish to 
see, as otherwise you are sure to find afterward 
that something very important has been over- 
looked, when the sea again stretches inexorably 
between you and that particular cathedral or 



8 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

picture gallery. It adds greatly to the pleasure 
of travel to have a distinct interest in archi- 
tecture, painting, sculpture, or some other of 
the arts, as it is impossible to be equally well 
informed about them all, and if you do not make 
some choice you will either try to study too 
much, or may give up attempting to learn any- 
thing. When two or three people mean to be 
travelling companions, it is always better, for 
obvious reasons, that they should have somewhat 
different gifts and somewhat similar tastes. 
An ideal association is where one is competent 
to make travelling plans and grapple with the 
problems of time-tables, another is willing to 
keep the purse, and do the actual travelling 
work, such as telegraphing ahead for rooms 
and attending to the luggage, while a third 
finds out what is best worth seeing wherever 
they may mutually decide to go. 

If any country except Great Britain is to be 
visited, it will add much to your pleasure if 
one of the party is able to speak its language 
at least tolerably. It is true that many people 
travel all over the Continent without knowing 
a word of any tongue save their own, but this 
may be compared to looking at a sunny land- 
scape through blue glasses — the outline is 



INTBODUCTION 9 

there without the characteristic colour. Even 
a few words of French or German or Italian 
are better than none at all, and one young 
woman declared that she got along quite com- 
fortably in Italy by being able to say "How 
much? " '' Too much! " and " What is the name 
of that church? " 

A course of lessons at one of the schools of 
language which are now so common will give 
an idea of the sound of a foreign tongue, and 
after that the best teachers are attention, a dic- 
tionary and phrase-book, and a good temper. 
Grammar is not of much use unless one has 
time to study seriously, and, after all, the best 
way is to ask questions on the spot and try to 
remember the answers. Nobody need have the 
least shyness about speaking a foreign language 
with a bad accent, because, to a native of the 
country, the difference between the degrees of 
accent does not really matter ; it is a little 
more or a little less, but always there to him. 
We have only to think how very rarely in our 
own experience we have heard any one who did 
not learn English until he was grown up, and 
yet who spoke it without any accent at all, to 
have less hesitation about inflicting our effort,; 
upon others. 



10 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

Americanisms in speech are usually bits of 
local dialect, or old-fashioned English words, 
as the French now spoken by the " habitants " 
in Canada is practically that of the time of 
Louis XIV. In England the language has 
gradually changed, while we have kept to the 
older form ; but in the matter of railways there 
is a separate nomenclature, different from ours 
in almost every particular. Each country has 
a perfect right to use words as her people 
prefer, but it is better, during your stay in 
England, to adopt the expressions usual there, 
without affectation, just as it is well to drop 
them, if they are not natural to you, when you 
go home. 

The custom of giving tips is one which often 
seems to come very hard to Americans, although 
it is now pretty well established in this country. 
Like all other European customs, it has a reason, 
and it may be worth while to look at it reason- 
ably. In former times people who had large 
establishments supported a number of servants 
of all kinds, whom they fed, housed, and clothed, 
but who received very little money, for the 
masters had not much themselves. Travellers 
of any distinction were always welcomed at 
these great houses or convents, and when they 



INTRODUCTION 11 

went away they naturally left a gift of money 
behind to be distributed among those who had 
served them. 

In Europe waiters, as well as other hotel ser- 
vants, often pay their employer a certain sum 
daily for the privilege of working for him, 
instead of receiving any wages, being expected 
to make their own living out of their tips, or 
"pourboires." On general principles, you are 
expected to give about ten per cent of a hotel 
bill in tips, but if you stay a long time in one 
place it is less. For this reason, sleeping at 
a different place every night is very expensive. 
You can scarcely get away and into the train 
again next morning for less than five shillhigs 
or five francs in tips, however small your bill 
may be, but if you stay for ten days the fees 
will not mount up in the same proportion. 

It might be possible to get about the world 
without tipping, and I have heard of people 
who have done so ; but, after all, it is a ques- 
tion of expediency. There must always be 
more or less strain and friction in life, and we 
ought to spare ourselves whenever a matter of 
principle is not involved ; besides, if we have 
money enough to travel for our pleasure, it is 
hard that we cannot spare a little of it to those 



12 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

who must work all the time. If any one will 
take the trouble to keep an account of the 
money spent in fees during a journey, it will 
not usually be found to amount to a very tre- 
mendous sum, and it will certainly have added 
much both to the comfort and the pleasure of 
the traveller. 

As the social life of Europe has been slowly 
developed through hundreds of years, it is but 
natural that it should have many more rules 
than we have found necessary; in fact, it is as 
much a game of skill as whist or chess, and 
when we go abroad we must try to play as 
well as we can. We are not expected to be 
especially adroit, but we may at least avoid 
making ourselves noticeable by ignorance on 
some points which seem to a European matters 
of course. 

It must not be supposed that everything is 
stiff and formal in Europe. On the contrary, 
within certain limits, social intercourse is sim- 
pler than in America. No restrictions press so 
hard as those which are not recognized, and 
in countries where everything has been long 
ago defined, it is easy to fall into grooves. 

The rule about chance acquaintances is that 
they must never, except under extraordinary 



INTRODUCTION 13 

circumstances, be made in the street or in a 
museum or gallery ; on the other hand, any one 
who happens to be in the same railway carriage 
may speak to you, it being distinctly understood 
that the acquaintanceship need go no farther. 
For instance, you may travel for five or six 
hours with a party of people, may lend them 
your newspapers and borrow theirs, and talk 
about the scenery or anything you like. If 
you happen to see them the next day, you may 
bow to them and they to you, but if you meet 
the day after, even that is not necessary. 

On board ship, also, there is an unwritten 
law that any one passenger may speak to an- 
other, but this does not bind them to know 
each other after landing. 

Before taking your place at a table d'hote, 
you should bow slightly to the other persons at 
your table, and also when you get up to go 
away. People who omit to do this are thought 
very rude on the Continent, especially in Ger- 
many. 

If you are next a stranger at table, it is allow- 
able, and indeed polite, to talk with him or her; 
and if your neighbour is a man it is your place 
to speak first. 

It is usual to say " good day " when you go 



14 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

into or out of a shop in France, Italy, or Ger- 
many, and nobody thinks it strange if you 
carry home a small parcel, but that is not the 
custom in England, any more than it is to 
greet the shop-people. A servant on the Con- 
tinent, especially if you stay some time in an 
hotel or apartment, expects, or at least likes, to 
be bidden "good morning," but an English 
servant would not understand it, nor is it good 
manners there to bow to the salesman of a shop 
in the street, no matter how well you may know 
him by sight ; the corresponding person on the 
Continent would be pleased, but in England it 
is considered that business and personal rela- 
tions are entirely distinct, and that the man 
who serves you in a shop has the same right as 
yourself to choose his acquaintances outside it. 
This really laudable sense of personal dignity is 
often mistaken by strangers for either stiffness 
or servility. 

In England, as with us, a woman bows first 
in the street ; but on the Continent the reverse 
is the rule, and men speak first to women. 
The American custom that a man walking with 
a woman should always keep himself between 
her and the gutter is not known in Europe ; 
a woman's place is invariably on a man's right 



INTRODUCTION 15 

hand, whether walking or driving. If you walk 
or sit on a man's left in Germany, it amounts to 
an admission that you are of a decidedly lower 
class. An older woman always sits on the right 
of a young one, and if you are paying a visit 
to a German lady, or to a Frenchwoman of the 
old school, you will be invited as a courtesy to 
sit on your hostess's right, but it is understood 
that you will give up your place to the next 
visitor who comes after you. 

In making calls in Europe, cards are left only 
for the married women of a family, as a girl is 
not supposed to have separate social recognition 
until she marries. 

Of late years manners have everywhere be- 
come so much more democratic that it is not 
now so unusual as it used to be to see young 
girls going about alone or together, and, as a 
general rule, if a woman will dress quietly, walk 
quickly, and look ahead of her, she will not be 
molested ; but if one who is strikingly pretty 
and showily dressed saunters slowly along, 
looking into shop windows and also staring at 
the passers-by, she will very likely be followed 
by some man who is willing to take the chance 
of possible amusement ; nor is hie altogether to 
blame, because the nice women whom he has 



16 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOB WOMEN 

known have not laid themselves open to such 
misunderstanding. 

The frank, level gaze with which the Ameri- 
can girl, not thinking any evil, meets the eyes of 
men who are strangers to her is always startling 
to Europeans. Ladies in Europe, especially on 
the Continent, dress quietly when walking, and 
wear very little jewellery in daytime. The 
mistake our women often make is in copying 
the clothes and manners of people who are not 
ladies at all. 

The rule of the road in England is that you 
pass to the left when riding, driving, or bicy- 
cling, but when on foot to the right as with us. 
In France, Germany, and most of Italy, one 
passes to the right, but you cannot always be 
sure; there are right and left-handed cities and 
districts, so you must keep your eyes open if 
you are bicycling or doing anything where you 
need to know the local custom. Many of the 
older towns have neither curbstone nor side- 
walk, consequently nobody on the Continent 
hesitates to walk in the street itself for any 
distance. 

When driving in small parks, such as that 
of the Villa Borghese in Rome, you bow to 
an acquaintance the first time you meet her 



INTRODUCTION 17 

carriage, but not after that, the reason being 
that people usually go round more than once, 
and if they had to speak each time they met 
their friends, they would be obliged to keep 
nodding like Dresden china mandarins. 

Every American who leaves his own country 
should begin by going to England, for several 
reasons. In the first place, while the transition 
is marked enough, it is less violent than if one 
is suddenly pitchforked into a place where the 
language, as well as all the customs, are unfa- 
miliar ; and then, although we have become 
different in some ways from the English, we 
are many of us descended directly from them 
and have a common inheritance in their past. 
Then, too, most things in England are on a 
small scale, individually, compared to the Con- 
tinent, and should therefore be seen first in 
order that they may produce their due effect. 
Some of the English cathedrals are extremely 
interesting and beautiful, especially if one 
comes to them with no standard of compari- 
son; but after Chartres and Rheims and other 
examples of Gothic art in France, even Canter- 
bury and Ely look small, and one realizes that 
they have been stripped of much that gave 
them meaning centuries ago. Nor does our 



/ 



18 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

interest in England stop with her great histori- 
cal monuments. The lanes where Shakespeare 
walked, the churchyard where Gray wrote his 
Elegy, and hundreds of other places, are full of 
associations for us, and we are right to make 
pilgrimages to them. 

One of the great faults in the modern Ameri- 
can, as it was in the old Athenian character, is 
lack of reverence ; and anything which has a 
tendency to develop that sentiment should be 
sedulously encouraged. It does not make the 
least difference that thousands of people before 
us have been moved as they stood in the little 
church at Stratford-on-Avon, or in Canterbury 
Cathedral, where the Black Prince lies, with 
his helmet and shield hanging over him ; if we 
also feel a thrill, it means that we have in us 
the capacity to be stirred by the memory of 
words and deeds which were higher and nobler 
than anything which we shall say or do in all 
our lives ; and although we are told that no 
man by taking thought can add to his bodily 
stature, it is certain that the best aid to mental 
growth is a healthy sense of our own littleness. 



PRELIMINARY READING 

A Few General Works on Art 

Those marked with a star (*) are of portable size, and useful 
for reference. 

Principles of Art, J. C. Van Dyke. Hunt & Eaton. 
Part I. Art in History. 
Part n. Art in Theory. 
*How to Judge of a Picture, J. C. Van Dyke. Hunt & 

Eaton. 
Art Topics, Sculpture, Painting, Architecture, C. S. Farrar. 

C. S. Farrar & Co. 
History of Art (2 vols., trans.), W. Lubke. Dodd & 

Mead. 
History of Sculpture (trans.), W. Liibke. Smith Elder. 
*Introduction to Gothic Architecture, J. H. Parker. 

Parker & Co. 
Architecture for General Readers, H. H. Stratham. 

Chapman and Hall. 
A Text-book of the History of Architecture, A. D. F. 

Hamlin. Longmans. 
Handbook of the History of Art (trans.), F. Kugler. 
History of Painting (2 vols., trans.), F. Kugler. 
History of Sculpture (trans.), F. Kugler. 
*A Concise History of Painting, Mrs. C. Heaton. (Bohn 

Library.) Macmillan. 
Lives of the Painters, Vasari. (Bohn, 6 vols.) Macmillan. 
Encyclopsedia of Architecture, J. Gwilt. Longmans. 
History of Architecture (4 vols.), J. Fergusson. Murray. 
Talks on Architecture (2 vols., trans.), VioUet-le-Duc. 
19 



20 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

Dictionnaire de 1' Architecture (10 vols., invaluable for 
French Gothic), VioUet-le-Duc. 

L' Architecture et la Peinture en Europe, A. Michiels. 

European Architecture, Russell Sturgis. Macmillan. 

Sacred and Legendary Art, Mrs. Jameson. Longmans. 

Legends of the Monastic Orders, Mrs. Jameson. Long- 
mans. 

Symbolism in Christian Art, F. E. Hulme. Macmillan. 

*Saints and their Symbols, E. A. Green. Sampson Low. 

Books relating to Certain Periods 

Introduction to the Study of the Middle Ages, E. Emerton. 

Ginn. 
Mediaeval Europe, E. Emerton. Ginn. 
The Holy Roman Empire, J. Bryce. Macmillan. 
The Renaissance, Walter Pater. Macmillan. 
Renaissance Fancies and Studies, Vernon Lee. Putnam. 
Kunst und Kiinstler des Mittelalters und der Neuzeit, 

Dr. F. Dohme. 
Die Kulturgeschichte des Mittelalters, Dr. Grupp. 
Cultur der Renaissance, J. Burckhardt. 
Die Spat Renaissance, G. Ebe. 
Geschichte des Barockstiles, P. Gurlitt. 
History of Modern Europe (3 vols.), C. A. FyfPe. Holt. 
Governments and Parties in Continental Europe, A. L. 

Lowell. Houghton, Mifflin. 



PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 

The most important matter to decide is how 
much you can afford to spend while you are 
away, and it is well to subdivide the sum likely 
to be at your disposal, until you know about 
what may be allowed for each week, or even 
each day. The reason for so doing is simple. 
Long journeys from one place to another are 
expensive, but stopping-places may be planned 
in which you can make good use of your time 
while your purse is recovering breath for a fresh 
start ; and if you avoid retracing your steps 
more than is absolutely necessary you will be 
able to see more, and spend less. It is not pos- 
sible to lay down any hard and fast rule as to 
what your journey ought to cost, because that 
depends upon your scale of expenses. Young 
and strong women can get along on two 
dollars a day each ; but five dollars is the 
least sum which an older woman should allow 
herself, if she wishes to be comfortable. 

There are some obvious advantages in buying 
a circular ticket through Cook's or another of 
21 



22 EUROPEAISr TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

the travelling agencies. Not only can you tell 
exactly what your tour will cost, but you are 
taken care of everywhere by thoroughly efficient 
machinery ; and if you know nothing of any 
language except your own you will probably 
profit more by your trip than if you try to 
wander about alone. The disadvantage is that 
you must follow the route you have chosen, thus 
necessarily sacrificing that sense of freedom 
which adds so much to a holiday. 

In any case, I strongly advise you to go to 
Cook's offices, which are to be found in almost 
every city, for your railway and steamboat 
ticketSo They will cost a fraction more than 
at the stations, but it is a great convenience to 
be able to get them beforehand, and it often 
happens, if you want to secure sleeping quarters 
or especial accommodations for a long journey, 
that you can do much better by dealing with 
the railways through an organization with 
which they do an immense amount of business, 
than if you try to do so on your own account. 
Cook's interpreters are on duty at all large sta- 
tions, and you will also probably find it con- 
venient to use them, but do not forget to tip 
them for their services, as they are supposed to 
be there only to assist their employer's parties. 



preparations for the journey 23 

Letters of Credit 

The traveller's checks issued by the Ameri- 
can Express Compaii}^, Brown Brothers, and 
probably other firms, for fixed amounts of ten, 
twenty, fifty, and a hundred dollars are very 
convenient and cost only half of one per cent ; 
but the old-fashioned letter of credit, which 
costs one per cent over the regular exchange 
and war tax, has many advantages for women. 
In the first place, it is a sort of general intro- 
duction from the banker who issues it to all 
his correspondents, and in case of any accident 
in a foreign town, such as, for example, arrest 
for ignorantly breaking some ordinance, or a 
sudden attack of illness, a banker in good 
standing may be quite as useful as the resident 
consul, even supposing that there is one in the 
place. 

Letters of credit are not usually given for a 
less sum than five hundred dollars, although 
exceptions are sometimes made. Your letter of 
credit is by far your most precious possession, 
and should be carried so carefully that there is 
but little chance of losing it. Each one issued 
has a number of its own, and this number 
should be entered in at least two different 



24 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

places ; once, for instance, on a card kept 
wherever you carry your ornaments, and again 
in a note-book or diary. If it happens that 
your letter is lost or stolen, you should 
telegraph its number to your banker, who 
will notify his correspondents not to pay any- 
thing on it, and you will lose nothing. 

The question of whether it shall be taken 
out for English or French money depends 
somewhat upon whether most of your time is 
to be spent in Great Britain. If it is, it will 
be more natural to draw your money in pounds, 
shillings, and pence, and a certain weight of 
credit attaches everywhere to English gold ; 
but, if the principal office of your banker is 
in Paris, and you expect to be chiefly on the 
Continent, it is simpler to deal with francs 
and centimes, especially as we are used to 
a decimal currency. 

The person to whom a letter of credit is 
made out puts her signature on it, and it 
should certainly be also signed by another 
member of the party, as then two people 
will be able to draw money on it instead of 
one. In case of severe illness, or death, 
great inconvenience may be caused if the 
only signature on the letter of credit is that 



PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 25 

of the person who can no longer write her 
name, as the others may be entirely unable to 
get money. 

The great majority of people now never 
think of taking out a passport for ordinarjf 
European travel, but they are still useful aa. 
a means of identification, and are regarded 
as a proof of their owner's respectability. A 
registered letter will almost always be handed 
over at once if you produce a passport, and at 
small custom-houses it has a very good effect, 
so that, on the whole, it is well to provide your- 
self with one. Passports are issued by the 
State Department at Washington, and any 
banker can direct you to a broker who will 
get one for you ; but if you live in the city of 
New York it is very easy to procure one for 
yourself. On one of the upper floors of the 
General Post-Office building there is a United 
States Court and adjoining the court-room 
you will find an office where you make your 
application, and in a few days the passport 
comes back from Washington, duly signed by 
the Secretary of State. It costs four dollars, 
and before it is handed to you it must be 
signed by some one able to identify you, in 
order to make sure that it goes to the rightful 



26 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

owner. For this reason you should take a 

friend with you when you go to claim it. 

A passport is good for two years, and may 

be at the end of that time renewed for one 

dollar. 

Steamers 

Your choice of an ocean steamer will natu- 
rally depend a good deal upon your feeling 
regarding the voyage and also upon the amount 
of money you can command. If you look upon 
the crossing as a horror to be got through with 
as soon as possible, if you have plenty of money 
and like the chance or certainty of fashionable 
fellow-passengers, by all means take one of the 
"ocean greyhounds." A note to the offices of 
the various companies will bring you fat 
envelopes full of plans and price-lists, for the 
competition between the lines is very keen, and 
by advancing or retarding for a little while 
the date of your sailing you may strike the 
"off season," when passages are considerably 
cheaper. All companies make a reduction of 
about ten per cent on the round trip if you 
take a return ticket, and it is sensible to do 
so if you can engage your homeward passage 
definitely on a ship of the same line at the 
time you sail from America. If, however, you 



PKEPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 27 

are not sure just when you are coming back, 
it is better not to bind yourself by a return 
ticket, as without it you are free to choose 
any line which suits you best as to date and 
accommodation. Besides, it is asking almost 
too much of human nature to expect that, in 
a crowded season, you will be given as good 
rooms, paying ten per cent less, as a person 
without a round trip ticket, who will pay the 
whole fare. In whatever ship you may choose 
your cabin, there are a few things to be thought 
of. There is less motion in the middle of the 
ship than at either end of it. The gentlemen's 
and ladies' toilet rooms are usually on opposite 
sides, and it is well to be tolerably near the 
latter, but not next door. And you should 
also avoid being too close a neighbour of the 
pantry or the barber's shop. 

If your income is limited, it certainly seems 
more sensible not to spend too much money on 
the voyage, but to have it for the other side ; 
and slow steamers are often steadier, and there- 
fore more comfortable for bad sailors, than 
very fast ones. The rooms are also larger in 
many cases, and that is a great advantage. A 
good-sized cabin on the upper deck, with plenty 
of fresh air, and room to turn round in, may 



28 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

mean the difference between happinesss and 
misery to its occupant, and insure her landing 
in good condition to go on with her journey. 
This last is an important consideration, as pro- 
tracted seasickness and its consequent starva- 
tion are most fatiguing, and it is sometimes 
weeks before the sufferer is really well again. 

It is customary to pay a deposit of twenty- 
five per cent of the passage money when you 
engage your passage. This payment secures 
your berth up to three weeks before your sail- 
ing, at which time the full amount of passage 
is usually paid. You cannot secure a room to 
yourself unless you pay two fares ; this rule, 
however, does not always hold in the dull 
season, and sometimes after the vessel starts it 
is possible to make an arrangement with the 
purser by which you may be alone in a cabin 
without paying extra, although it is never 
safe to be sure of it. 

You may buy your ticket from New York 
through to London, Paris, or Bremen, and 
if you wish to stop on the way between the 
port and your final destination, the luggage 
will be sent on to await your arrival. 

When you finally go to pay for your steamer 
ticket, be careful to get a number of labels for 



PRBPAKATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 29 

your luggage, both for that which is to go in the 
hold and also for the steamer trunk and small 
pieces which you keep with you in your cabin, 
and be sure you take more of the latter than you 
think you are likely to want, as you will find that 
packages multiply like rabbits in the last days 
before you go, and if friends send you butter, 
fruit, etc., before you leave your house or hotel, 
it will run no risk of being lost in the scramble 
of getting on board if each box or basket has a 
label with your name and cabin number plainly 
thereon. 

The custom of loading travellers down with 
eatables, as if they were going to cross the 
Great Desert, has gone out to a great extent, 
but still there are a few things which add to 
one's comfort considerably. To people who are 
fussy about butter, that on board ship is never 
more than fair, and a small tin kettle of some 
which is really good may be put in charge of the 
pantry steward, who will keep it in the ice-room, 
and your cabin or table steward will bring it to 
you, or put it at your place at each meal. If 
you can have it made up before you start into 
little separate balls, so much the better, as it will 
last longer and look prettier than if blocks are 
chopped off the large pat each time you want it. 



30 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

Fresh eggs and fruit are both great luxuries, 
the latter being almost necessary to health, and 
you may like to have a small tin box of plain 
biscuits or crackers (not sweet) in your cabin, as 
if you are well at sea you are usually fiercely 
hungry, and if not, you will often feel faint and 
" gone," and should not allow yourself then to 
be without food. Peppermint lozenges are an 
excellent tonic for most people when they are 
beginning to get over seasickness. 

If you drink coffee, you should certainly take 
with you, wherever you go, a few vanilla beans, 
as a small bit of one, an inch long or less, broken 
off and dropped into a cup, will take away the 
bitter taste which is so common when coffee is 
not good, besides giving it a pleasant smell and 
flavour. Half a dozen beans are plenty to start 
with, as you can get them easily in any large 
town, and their odour is so aromatic and pervad- 
ing that, unless you want everything which 
comes near them to be flavoured like a pudding, 
you had better keep them in a long glass bottle, 
wide at the top and with a metal cover which 
screws on tight, like those made to hold tooth- 
brushes in travelling-bags. You may find them 
at any large shop where they sell different sorts 
of bottles for chemists. If you are particular 



PKEPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 31 

about your tea you may take your own, and the 
table steward or your stewardess will have it 
made for you. 

Foreign Money 

At any banker's you will be able to get the 
address of a reputable money-changer, and it is 
a good plan to buy some foreign money before 
you start. It is true that American money is 
taken on any of the ocean steamers, but the 
currency of the country to which the steamship 
line belongs is the official medium on board ; 
your bills are made out in shillings on an Eng- 
lish boat, in francs on a French one, and in 
marks on a German. Now if we consider our 
quarter-dollar as answering to the shilling, franc, 
or mark, for purposes of tips on board ship, you 
can easily see that you will save money by giving 
the foreign coin instead of its American equiva- 
lent ; as a shilling and a mark are, roughly speak- 
ing, twenty-four cents, and a franc only a little 
over nineteen. 

It is also a convenience to have some small 
change of the country at which you expect to 
land ; in fact, old travellers usually keep a little 
of the money of each country, for convenience' 
sake if they should go back to it, and they are 



32 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

also careful to take some American money 
abroad with them, for immediate use when they 
come home, as the New York or Boston hack- 
man or truck-driver, although probably himself 
an emigrant, will strenuously object to taking 
foreign tribute. 

If you buy a little money of each of the coun- 
tries to which you mean to go, you will be able 
to familiarize yourself with the look of the diff- 
erent coins before you must actually use them. 

Luggage and Belongings 

Trunks, or "travelling boxes," as they are 
called in England, are cheaper in Europe than 
here ; but not better than those of our good 
makers, and it is always false economy to buy 
cheap trunks, if you mean to use them for trav- 
elling, as these have a way of giving out and 
coming to pieces just when it is hardest to mend 
or replace them. Of course, if you are going 
to carry a lot of clothes about with you, and 
spend some time in cities or in making visits, 
you will need the same wardrobe that you 
would at home, and large boxes to hold it ; 
but even then do not try to drag about the 
huge arks with which some Americans still 
advertise their nationality — not because you 



PEEPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 33 

wish to renounce yours, but because you will 
find them inconvenient, as Europeans are not 
used to handling them. They are also very 
cruel to porters, as hotels, except the largest, 
have no freight elevators, or " lifts," as they are 
called in Europe, and all luggage is carried by 
hand, often up and down many stairs. Basket 
trunks, or " dress boxes," are useful in England, 
but not to be recommended for the Continent, 
as there are clever thieves who make it a busi- 
ness to slit the covers, push the osiers apart, 
and take out any small articles of value. Dust 
also sifts into them easily. 

It is better to have two small pieces of 
luggage rather than one large one, as it is eas- 
ier to get about with them, and also cheaper to 
take only a small trunk or large valise if you 
are going off anywhere for a few days, while, 
if you are invited to make a visit at a private 
house and appear with a very large box, you will 
simply be regarded as an unmitigated nuisance. 

It is not a bad plan to take all your belong- 
ings in one trunk from America, and then 
buy two small ones after you land, if you 
need them. In England you are entitled to 
one hundred and twelve pounds weight of 
luggage on a first-class ticket, eighty pounds 



34 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

on a second-class one, and sixty if you go 
third-class, but there is seldom any charge 
unless you have an exorbitant amount. In 
France you are allowed thirty kilos, or 
about sixty-six pounds, on a ticket of any 
class ; and in most parts of Germany, fifty 
pounds ; but in Italy, Belgium, Holland, and 
Switzerland every pound of luggage must be 
paid for, and at so high a rate that it is a 
serious item in one's travelling expenses. In 
Italy, for instance, to take one hundred kilos, 
or two hundred pounds, weight of luggage 
from one place to another will cost exactly 
as much as a third-class ticket for the same 
distance. 

If you intend to wander about all day and go 
to bed early, it is perfectly practicable to travel 
comfortably with one medium-sized trunk, al- 
though you may be rather crowded in the 
matter of underclothing. With two cloth 
tailor-suits, one thicker and one lighter, a 
good silk or satin skirt, and a few blouses, or 
shirt-waists, one is well enough provided for 
sight-seeing and the table d'hote, but if jon 
wish to go to tlie theatre you will need an 
evening wrap, and if you stop to rest for a day 
or two, some sort of house-dress or teagown 



PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 35 

is a luxury. It is almost impossible to say 
how much or how little luggage you should 
take, as that depends entirely upon what repre- 
sents to you necessaries. The best sort of 
travelling petticoat is silk of a good quality, 
but many pretty ones are also made of coloured 
cotton stuffs, and if you have any decent enough 
to get you across the ocean, you will be able 
to find them either in London or Paris at less 
cost than at home, because the work-people are 
paid so much less. 

If you are wise you will wear very simple 
underclothes while travelling, as they will 
receive very hard usage from the washerwomen. 
Indeed, the use of chemicals to save time and 
labour is almost universal in civilized places, 
and in those which are out of the way the linen 
is pounded on stones, so that between these 
evils it soon gives up the struggle, and you 
go about in rags. 

It is difficult to see why any one should think 
it necessary to have her name and home address 
put on her luggage in full, as it is of no use, 
and only serves to make her conspicuous, which 
is always disagreeable to a lady, besides offer- 
ing an opportunity to adventurers. Initials are 
enough, but it is useful to have some simple 



36 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

sign, sucli as a cross, a round spot, or a star, 
painted in red on either end of a trunk, near 
the lettering, in order to be able to find it more 
easily. Red corners are also a good distinction. 
Probably many railway porters, on the Continent 
at least, cannot read, but if you point to one 
piece of luggage with such a mark on it, and 
hold up as many fingers as there are other 
pieces like it, you will find it has as much effect 
as the most eloquent harangue. One of my 
travelling companions devised a simple method 
for distinguishing the keys of trunks, which you 
may find useful in case you are bringing home 
several pieces of luggage, or have an accumula- 
tion of it for any reason. She collected ends 
of narrow ribbon of very bright colours, then 
cut each piece in two, and tied one half tightly 
through the loop of the key, and the other as 
firmly round the hasp of the lock, or through 
one of the side clamps which are on nearly all 
trunks now. The result was that at a custom- 
house, or on arriving at an hotel with scant time 
to dress for dinner, or when, at the last moment 
before starting, a trunk had to be opened, the 
key with the bit of green ribbon on it seemed 
waiting with sentient eagerness to open the 
trunk on which was a scrap of the same colour ; 



PREPABATIOi^S FOR THE JOURNEY 37 

and as keys in their natural state all look 
more or less alike, the saving of patience and 
temper was incalculable. 

Each person should have a steamer trunk, 
and if of fair size it will be more useful after 
landing than a very small one. A large, dark- 
coloured canvas bag, or '' kit," with a lock, 
such as all good trunk-makers sell now, is prac- 
tical for soiled clothes, as they may be stuffed 
into it, and kept by themselves. A canvas 
cover with straps, in which the rugs and shawls 
of the party may be neatly rolled, will keep 
them from the dust of travel ; and still another 
canvas case is advisable for holding umbrellas 
and parasols, which otherwise soon get badly 
chafed and shabby-looking. A very stout 
valise, preferably of sole leather, to carry only 
books, is a great convenience. One needs guide- 
books, for instance, and they accumulate rap- 
idly, and are bad neighbours to lighter articles 
if carried in an ordinary trunk, besides being 
inaccessible just when they are most wanted. 
But if you have a valise for them, you can 
keep it open until the last minute at an hotel, 
and then take it with you in your railway 
carriage, and surround yourself, if you have 
a long journey, with any kind of literature, 



88 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

besides saving the considerable sum which they 
would have cost if paid for as luggage. To be 
sure, they will add to the amount of the tip 
which you must give for carrying small articles 
in or out of a station, and we were often 
amused by the surprise of the porter who caught 
hold casually of the book-valise, to find it 
apparently filled with lead. A bag of netted 
hemp, such as children carry schoolbooks in, 
will be another blessing. It is certainly not 
pretty, and the " smart " member of your party 
will probably jeer at it ; but it holds together 
all the newspapers, time-tables, and magazines, 
which otherwise delight to flutter about the 
deck, or hide in dark corners of the carriage, 
or scatter from your arms on a station platform. 
If you can photograph at all, a camera will be 
not only an amusement, but valuable because 
you can have, by its help, an illustrated journal 
of your travels. As a rule, local photographers 
take only objects of obvious interest, such as 
churches and palaces ; if you want details of 
architecture, or bits of scenery, you must take 
them for yourself. The '' Daylight " Kodak, 
5 X 4, is an easy size to carry, and in all large 
cities you can get Eastman's films, or have 
them developed. 



PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 39 

People going to Europe for the first time are 
usually, like the expectant mothers of first 
babies, showered with all sorts of presents from 
friends who are often more kind than practical. 
Elaborate " housewives," with rainbows of sew- 
ing silk and rows of fine needles, or writing 
cases with beautiful penholders and tiny ink- 
stands look delightful ; but black shoe-thread 
and big needles may not be forthcoming from 
the former when you want them, and you will 
be lucky if the ink only dries up, and does not 
leak over your other belongings. 

If any fairy godmother offers you a travel- 
ling-bag, fitted with toilet things, beg her to let 
you wait and get it in England, which is their 
native country, and where they are cheaper 
than here. With us their weight is against 
them, as one must often carry one's own hand 
luggage ; but that need never happen on the 
other side of the water. 

Of all white elephants, a large and heavy bag 
or dressing-case crowded with a number of 
fittings as to which the beneficiary had no 
choice is the worst, especially as no two 
women ever want exactly the same things 
in travelling. One who sunburns easily is 
wretched without the lotion which she always 



40 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

uses ; another does not care for that, but wants 
to have a bottle of smelling-salts or a box of 
cold cream, or some special clothes-brush, or 
hair-curling lamp to which she is attached, 
where she may be able to put her hand on it. 
The only sensible thing to do, therefore, is to 
choose among your belongings those which really 
add to your daily comfort, and then proceed to 
build a bag round them. Each little bottle or 
box, button-hook or nail-file, should have its 
leather cubbyhole or strap in which it is always 
to live when in the bag. By taking them out 
and putting them back constantly you will soon 
learn to do it mechanically, and if you have for- 
gotten anything, its empty place is there as a 
mute reminder, which will often prevent you 
from leaving it behind. 

A soap box or case is always included in the 
fitting of a good bag, and is very necessary, as 
soap is never furnished in Continental hotels. 

A dressing-case of linen, or some such stuff, 
with different divisions, which is what most 
people have, and which will go in any bag, is 
just as useful as a more elaborate arrangement ; 
the point is that there should be a settled place 
for each of your toilet articles in order to keep 
them together. You cannot get along without 



PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 41 

a hand-bag, and do not make the mistake of 
choosing it too small, or of leather which will 
easily become shabby ; russet or black pigskin 
or morocco is very serviceable. Here are a 
few suggestions as to its contents : — 

Keep an ordinary paper-cutter, not so fine 
that it would be heart-breaking to lose it, and 
also a common wooden pencil, slipped under 
little straps or loops just inside the top, so 
that they may be reached in a moment with- 
out having to burrow after them. 

A cheap stiff fan which will stay folded, and 
a thick gauze veil in case of excessive dust, will 
lie peacefully in the bottom and give no trouble 
if they are not wanted. A small bottle of 
brandy or ginger ought not to be omitted. A 
folding silver fruit-knife is a luxury, and there 
are several kinds of travelling drinking-cups 
which do not take up much room and are often 
a great convenience. A little " housewife " or 
sewing-case, with glove and shoe buttons, a 
thimble, safety-pins, cobbler's thread, and a 
plaited tress of sewing silk for mending, is 
almost indispensable. With the present fashion 
of coloured petticoats and various blouses it is 
perfectly possible to be twenty-four hours away 
from your trunk, if the hand-bag is large 



42 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

enough to hold, besides your dressing-case, a 
nightgown, another blouse, stockings, and some 
handkerchiefs. Now these are rather intimate 
garments to display to casual eyes every time 
the bag is opened; but they will pass unnoticed, 
and furthermore be kept quite clean, if they are 
carried in a simple case like those made for 
handkerchiefs, but of some quiet colour, and 
another little bag in which to slip soiled hand- 
kerchiefs is also useful. 

Many people keep their reserve money and 
such valuable ornaments as they carry with 
them, in a belt or pocket which they wear all 
the time. Should you not wish to do this, get 
a small tin box with a Yale lock, make a dark 
flannel cover for it, so that it will neither 
attract notice nor chafe your other things, and 
let it live always in your bag. The keys of this 
box and of the bag should be in some place 
always easy to get at, and you should see that 
your bag is locked in hotels, or if you leave it 
in the parcel rooms of railway stations. 

Low shoes are so much worn now that one's 
feet do not feel tired after a long day's travel- 
ling as they used to do from buttoned boots ; 
but if one means to stop over night, room may 
be made in the bag for a comfortable and yet 



PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 43 

nice-looking pair of slippers, and these should 
also have a dwelling-place of their own. The 
patterns for shoe-bags are many, but one of the 
best seems to be a case like a large envelope, of 
brown linen, or some such material, bound with 
braid, and with a pointed flap which buttons 
oyer, as an envelope is shut. 

Or else there need be no case or bag at all, 
but a piece of stuff about eighteen inches square, 
bound all round, with two ends of tape or braid 
left loose at one corner, in order to tie the shoes 
up into a neat parcel. To be convenient it is by 
no means essential that a travelling-bag should 
be very expensive, but it is worth while to give a 
little thought and spend a little money on some- 
thing which will make a decided difference in 
your daily comfort. 

A large " steamer bag " of stout linen, with 
different divisions, is almost necessary for use 
in one's cabin, as it keeps together conveniently 
handkerchiefs, underclothes, and countless little 
things which otherwise have a tendency to 
stray. Pack this bag quietly at home with 
the things which you think you will be most 
likely to want for the first few days after you 
sail, and put it in your steamer trunk, all ready 
to hang up when you go on board. Into one of 



44 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

the pockets slip a few small screw-eyes with 
sharp points, so that in case you are not able 
to pin it on the back of the sofa in your cabin, 
you may screw it into the woodwork in some 
place where it will do no harm. 

Provide yourself with two bags of checked 
gingham, or some stuff of that kind, for your 
soiled linen ; you can thus send one to the 
wash, and have the other to use while the first 
is away. 

A simple, thin, flannel dressing-gown which 
you may wear over your nightgown at sea, or 
if you think a hotel bed is not entirely dry, 
is indispensable, as well as a pair of knitted 
slippers to wear in your berth or whenever 
you feel chilly, but not quite cold enough to 
need a hot-water bottle. You should also 
have another dressing-gown or wrapper of 
some quiet colour, in order not to be too con- 
spicuous when you go to the bath-room. A 
travelling cloak of some kind should be a con- 
stant companion. Nine times out of ten it is 
a great nuisance and terribly in your way, but 
on the tenth it will prevent your taking a bad 
cold, which is more of a nuisance still. 

As to writing materials, experience has con- 
vinced me that the most practical thing to have 



PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 45 

is a separate inkstand, big enough to hold a 
good supply of ink (those of rubber, with screw 
tops, are excellent), and a large plain leather 
blotting-book, with a strap for your penholder, 
and a pocket in one cover, in which you may keep 
your paper. Postage-stamps may be bought in 
any hotel, and will travel best in a small flat 
leather book with oiled paper leaves and a button 
catch, which will also slip into this pocket. If 
you are in the habit of writing on your knee, one 
of the lap-boards which now come in all degrees 
of elaboration may be just what you want, but 
the inkstands for them are as a rule microscopic, 
and they are apt to have more fittings than you 
will really need. Travelling is something like 
cooking; the better a cook is, the fewer utensils 
she needs outside the necessary tools of her 
trade; and the more you go about the less you 
will care to accumulate things on the chance 
of their being useful. 

All the same, there are some belongings which 
will add distinctly to your comfort. Besides 
the little housewife in your bag, you should 
take some extra buttons like those on your 
underclothes, some black sewing-silk, fine and 
coarse, and some elastic if you are likely to need 
it. A tape-measure with inches on one side 



46 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

and centimeters on the other may be bought at 
most good thread and needle shops, and let me 
recommend you to take it with you if you go to 
buy stockings anywhere outside of England, as, 
unless you do, the wily salesman will probably 
persuade you that he has given you just your 
size, and you may either find your purchase in 
wads about your toes and folds around your 
ankles, or else not be able to get your foot into 
it at all; for nothing lends itself to deception 
with such glee as a stocking, — especially if it be 
silk, — except perhaps a collar, and if you must 
buy the latter the measure will again be useful, 
unless you want to know how it feels to be 
garroted. One meter corresponds to thirty- 
nine inches, which is near enough to our stan- 
dard if you are only getting a yard or two of 
ribbon; but if you buy twelve meters you must 
reckon that you will have thirteen yards. 

A great many useful articles may be carried 
in a small box, and if it is of tin, so much the 
better — I know one originally meant to hold 
dry ginger which has crossed the ocean several 
times with credit to itself and comfort to its 
owner. Hotel porters now understand pretty 
well how to take care of russet shoes, but if 
you have any special dressing for your black 



PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 4T 

ones you had better carry it in another little 
tin box, and take care of them yourself, for if 
you put them outside your door they will prob- 
ably be blackened like a man's. Some Ameri- 
can patent medicines and toilet articles may be 
found in every large European city; but if you 
have any convenience or remedy to which you 
are attached, and which does not take up much 
room, by all means take it with you, for it is a 
nuisance to go chasing about in strange places 
for prosaic trifles when you might better be 
using your time in seeing something worth 
remembering. 

Very few American women can find ready- 
made shoes or boots to fit them in Europe, even 
if they are in the habit of doing so easily at 
home ; the shape of our feet seems to be peculiar. 
It is therefore better, unless you are going for 
a long time, to take enough to last until you 
come back, especially as it is extremely fatigu- 
ing to stand about while sight-seeing in shoes 
which are not comfortable. 

It is also difficult to get good thin rubber 
overshoes, and as they are not bulky you will 
be wise to carry a pair. 

A rubber hot-water bottle with a separate 
flannel coat (because chambermaids are likely 



48 EUEOPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

to get the cover wet if it cannot be taken off) 
should go with you everywhere, and a small 
funnel is useful for filling it ; a tin box of 
mustard leaves may also prove invaluable. A 
clinical thermometer is another almost neces- 
sary article, and be sure that it is well tested 
and accurate. Try to find room for a small 
medicine chest, or case, especially if you expect 
to be in out-of-the-way places. Of course you 
hope never to need anything from it, but it 
is better to bring it back unopened than to 
run the risk of needing it sorely. For possible 
general use the following things will be enough : 
A roll of adhesive plaster and a couple of small 
bandages ; a bottle of cholera mixture ; some 
quinine pills ; a good liniment for sprains, and 
any pills or liquid which you are in the habit 
of taking to ward off a cold. 

If there is any mild laxative in which you 
have faith, provide yourself with some of it, as 
you will find it useful in travelling, and espe- 
cially at sea. 

There are innumerable prescriptions for sea- 
sickness, each one warranted to be more effica- 
cious than the other, and none of them is a 
panacea ; but I have certainly had good results 
in my own case and with other people from 



PKEPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 49 

some little granules made by Dr. Burggraeve, 
and belonging to what is called his " dosimetric " 
system. Those for seasickness are hyoscyamine 
and sulphate of strychnine, and you can get 
them at any good apothecary's, in boxes each 
of which contains a number of tiny bottles of 
the granules — the hyoscyamine is brown and 
the strychnine white. If a person knows that 
she has any constitutional weakness of the 
heart, she ought never to experiment with any 
drug except under her physician's orders ; I 
merely say that, of all the various remedies 
for seasickness which I have seen tried, these 
granules seem to be among the most useful, 
and they are certainly easy to carry. 

Be sure that any prescriptions you take with 
you are legibly written. In all large cities 
there are American and English pharmacies, 
but it is better not to get anything compli- 
cated made up outside of them. " Grains " are 
unknown in the Continental pharmacopoeia, 
" grammes " being used instead ; and as a 
gramme is equivalent to about fifteen grains, 
in the case of a powerful drug a mistake would 
be fatal. 

As to thermometers, the English use Fahren- 
heit's, as we do : while the Centigrade is univer- 



50 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

sal on the Continent, except in Russia, some 
parts of Germany, and Switzerland, where Rea- 
mur's is used. The Centigrade or Celsius 
thermometer reckons zero as freezing and one 
hundred as boiling point. Reamur's starts in 
the same way, but reckons boiling point as 
eighty, whereas Fahrenheit's, the most irra- 
tional ever made, reckons freezing at thirty- 
two and boiling at two hundred and twelve. 

If you are in the habit of consulting a ther- 
mometer, take one with you on which the three 
different scales are marked, and this you can get 
at any good optician's. Should you not care to 
do this, you will find an illustration of one at 
the back of this book ; if you see in a Paris 
newspaper that the thermometer is ten degrees 
Centigrade, by looking at the illustration you 
will find that equal to fifty degrees Fahrenheit, 
and you will thus know how warm or cold you 
ought to feel. As the degrees of the Centigrade 
thermometer are so much larger than those of 
the Fahrenheit, the intervals between them are 
reckoned in tenths. This is worth remembering 
in case you consult a foreign physician. 

Even if you are travelling with very little 
luggage, you can find a corner in your bag, or 
in a trunk which will be always with you, for 



PRfiPARATIOKS FOR THE JOURNEY 51 

one of the small alcohol lamps or " Etnas," 
which are not larger than an ordinary tin mug, 
and may be found at any house-furnishing shop 
or department store. Take also a flat tin bottle 
with a screw top for alcohol. If you are fond 
of tea, with this lamp you can always make 
yourself a cup; or if you want a little hot 
water at any time, you are independent. There 
is still another reason for taking it. Many 
people are extremely careful about the water 
they drink, and yet peacefully brush their teeth 
from what they find on their wash-stands, which 
is not consistent, as microbes are invisible 
beasts, and one is as good, or as bad, as a 
thousand. If you wish to take every precau- 
tion, therefore, you should boil the water for 
your teeth, and then you may feel that you 
have done everything in your power to escape 
possible danger. 

A portable rubber bath-tub is very little 
trouble, as it may be carried in the kit, and it 
will save its cost several times over. There 
are no bath-rooms in most foreign hotels, and 
a charge, varying slightly with the grade of 
the hotel, is always made for the tin tub which 
is brought into one's room. As this charge 
is usually only ten cents, the oldest or most 



c^ 



52 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

luxurious member of the party may be willing 
to afford that, and then any amount of cold 
water and a more or less generous supply of 
hot will be brought for nothing to the other 
rooms, and with a rubber tub you may be just 
as clean. There are endless patterns of these, 
and one of the best, which I have used for 
years, came from J. C. Cording, 19 Piccadilly. 
Those which inflate are at the mercy of the 
casual pin-prick, but in this one the sides are 
held up by something like whalebone, and it is 
very durable. 

With regard to what clothes you will need 
on board ship, that depends a great deal upon 
the steamer which you have chosen. On some 
of the very fashionable ones women are now 
said to dress almost as much as if they were 
at home, but that certainly seems unnecessary. 
Heroines in novels are always described as 
bewitchingly lovely at sea, but to more ordi- 
nary mortals it is decidedly trying. Unless 
the hair curls naturally as tightly as a water 
spaniel's, it is soon blown into straight wisps, 
and a few days on deck will usually give a 
liberal coat of sunburn to the complexion. 
Girls on their first voyage often look as if the 
steamer had carried them off from the dock by 



PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 53 

mistake ; but, on the other hand, old travellers 
who keep old clothes for the ocean are apt to 
have the air of pauper emigrants ; while one 
sometimes sees a despondent soul who gives 
up the struggle in despair and makes occasional 
visits to the deck in a large cloak worn over a 
flowered dressing-gown. A cloth tailor-made 
suit is by far the most appropriate, and one's 
shoes or boots should be particularly neat, as 
feet are nowhere more evident than at sea ; 
rubber soles will make walking pleasanter and 
safer, as the decks are often slippery ; and in 
case of damp weather it is well to have thin 
woollen gloves, as those of kid or dogskin soon 
feel clammy and sticky. Two woollen dress- 
skirts and two pairs of shoes are necessary, as 
in case you get wet, as often happens, it takes 
hours to have your things dried somewhere 
in the mysterious depths of the ship. 

A proper hat for the sea is one that fits the 
head closely, is trimmed neatly with ribbons or 
stiff feathers, and has a slight brim to protect 
the eyes from the glare of the sky and water. 
It should also be turned up at the back in order 
that the head may rest against the steamer 
chair. Sailor hats with their stiff brims are 
uncomfortable unless one is always aggressively 



54 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

well, and although yachting caps and "deer- 
stalkers" are convenient, they are also extremely 
trying unless a woman is young and beautiful 
enough to wear anything. If people are able 
to go to the table at all they usually make an 
effort to dress for dinner; but for that a 
couple of pretty blouses and a black satin skirt 
or something of the kind are usually quite 
enough. 

Wraps trimmed with fur are not particularly 
pleasant at sea, because if it is damp the fur 
sticks together and smells unpleasantly ; if, 
however, you have an old fur-lined cloak 
which has begun to shed itself too liberally, you 
can make it comfortable for the steamer by 
covering the fur with an inner lining of thin 
silk or surah. You thus have all the lightness 
and warmth of the fur, and yet it will not get 
damp nor wiU the hair come off on your cloth 
frock. 

Warm underclothes, a thick rug, and an extra 
shawl are always useful, as the Atlantic is apt 
to be more than chilly, even in midsummer; 
and a little cushion covered with dark silk, to 
hang on the back of your deck chair, will make 
it more comfortable, besides being a luxury 
afterward in railway carriages. 



PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 55 

It pays to get a good steamer rug, as the 
cheaper ones are apt to be heavy and clumsy, 
and you had better take it on your travels, 
as it is often cold in the mornings and even- 
ings, and if you drive at all you will need it. 
If you have a soft, thin shawl which is warm 
without being bulky, spread it over the top 
tray of your trunk and let it go with you : 
many a time you will be glad to have a little 
extra covering on your bed, without the trouble 
of sending for it. 

If, before you sail, some friend offers to make 
for you anything you may want, ask her to hem 
some pieces of plain white muslin, or of some 
pretty flowered cotton stuff, large enough to 
cover the trays of your trunk, and to be well 
tucked in at the sides, to prevent the contents 
from jumbling about, as they love to do. Trifles 
like this scarcely seem worth bothering about, 
but they certainly add to one's comfort. 

Although the mercury in European ther- 
mometers rarely races up and down as many 
degrees in the twenty-four hours as we are used 
to, if you are travelling, even in summer, you 
will need a considerable range of clothing, to 
avoid catching cold. There are now many little 
spencers and underbodices, woven of cotton, silk, 



56 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

or wool, which take up a very small space, 
either on the body or in a trunk, and you will 
find a few of them useful. They are consider- 
ably cheaper, I may say, in England or France, 
on account of our customs duties. If you have 
room in the bottom of your reserve trunk, you 
might take one of the folding waste-paper bas- 
kets which are made of cardboard covered with 
chintz. When the ribbons which hold the side- 
panels together are untied, they lie quite fiat, 
and they weigh next to nothing. I only men- 
tion this as a possible convenience or luxury, 
because a waste-paper basket is never part of 
the furniture of a hotel bedroom, and after you 
receive your mail, or if you do any shopping, 
you will have a litter of paper and envelopes 
likely to vex a tidy soul, unless the weather 
allows you that handiest devourer of rubbish, 
a fire. 

Take a supply of visiting-cards, even if you 
do not expect to make a call while you are away, 
as they are everywhere looked upon as a proof 
of respectability, less official than a passport, 
but almost as effective. Keep a few always 
with you in your card-case or pocket-book — 
and by the way, it is only Americans, I believe, 
who carry the latter in their hands. European 



PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 57 

women tuck them away somewhere, which 
seems safer. If you mean to be moving about 
much, it will be sensible to order a number of 
large envelopes lined with linen, and with your 
name printed plainly upon them. Everything 
is usually addressed to your principal banker, 
either in England or on the Continent, and he 
will, according as you direct, either enclose all 
your letters to you, or run his pen through the 
address to him, and add the address to which 
you wish him to forward it. It costs more to 
have letters enclosed, because fresh postage 
must be paid; but it is much more satisfactory, 
as everything comes together in one large 
enclosing envelope, instead of having to be 
sorted piecemeal from the pile at each banker's 
where you claim them. If you leave your large 
envelopes with the first banker, he simply has 
to put the address of his correspondent where- 
ever they are to meet you, and if your name is 
at all an uncommon one, it is a great conven- 
ience to have it -clearly printed. 

On most ocean steamers now there is a fairly 
good library, so that it is not necessary to lay in 
a stock of books for the voyage, even if you 
expect to be able to read, but a few novels and 
magazines of your own never come amiss, and 



68 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

you can leave them for your stewardess when 
you are done with them. 

A few years ago the traveller on his way to 
Europe might always be known by the steamer 
chair which stuck out proudly on the top of 
his luggage, and they still range themselves 
outside the trunk shops, a sure sign of spring. 
It is quite unnecessary, however, to burden 
yourself, as there is a company which has 
a stand on each ocean steamship dock, both 
here and in Europe, and a dollar or its equiv- 
alent will hire one for the voyage, after which 
you will have no further bother with it, — or 
else the deck steward will rent one to you 
after you go on board. In any case each 
member of the party should have one for her- 
self. Take time to look them over and choose 
a stout one with a high back against which you 
may rest your head. Your card will be slipped 
into a little frame on the back, but if you are 
canny you will tie a small knot of some out- 
rageously gaudy ribbon round the top rail, 
where you will be sure to see it every time you 
come on deck. On windy mornings, when the 
deck is at an unnatural slant, and it has 
required heroic courage to emerge at all, one 
little blurred card looks much like another; but 



PBEPAEATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY 59 

a yellow ribbon with a red border will cheer- 
fully proclaim your chair to you, and will also 
protect it from those squatters who do not 
hire any for themselves, expecting to take 
advantage of the illness of other passengers. 



GUIDE-BOOKS, DICTIONARIES, AND 
NOVELS 

Begin to collect your guide-books as soon as 
you decide where you are going. No matter 
how much you may have read about the places 
you mean to visit, such knowledge must neces- 
sarily be more or less disconnected, but in a 
guide-book you will find information in a 
highly concrete form ; you can see just how 
many miles it is from one city to another, how 
long it will take you to make the journey, and 
all such practical details. 

Then, also, if you have friends who already 
know the places you wish to visit, you can 
consult them much more intelligently if you 
have a book which will suggest questions, and 
which you may mark for future reference. 
Remember that it is no part of the business 
of a guide-book to make up your mind for 
you; it is written to be useful to as many 
different kinds of people as possible, and as 
you cannot be equally interested in everything, 
try to ask some one who knows your tastes 
60 



GUIDE-BOOKS, DICTIONARIES, ETC. 61 

what you had better make a point of seeing, 
and what you may omit. There are several 
good Satchel Guides to Europe, but these are 
necessarily rigorously condensed, and on the 
whole, the best guide-books for English-speak- 
ing people are those of Murray, and the trans- 
lations of Baedeker. Murray has excellent 
descriptions of scenery and objects of histori- 
cal interest, and its literary quality is better, 
but Baedeker is rather more convenient to take 
about with you, and its advice as to the choice 
of hotels is fuller, and thought by some to be 
more accurate. Be careful to get as recent an 
edition of either as you can, on account of 
possible changes in routes, etc. Besides the 
volumes which include whole countries, Murray 
has a separate one for London and another for 
Rome, and Baedeker for London and for Paris. 
You will find one of these indispensable for use 
on the spot, as they tell you on which days 
the picture galleries and museums are open, 
how you can best see the most interesting 
sights, and altogether give you fuller informa- 
tion than is possible in those which must cover 
a larger field. If you are familiar with French, 
you will find the Guides Joanne and Guides 
Conty very good, especially for France, and 



62 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

in both series there are a number of little 
monographs, one for each district or town of 
any importance, which are extremely cheap, 
and easy to carry. As a general rule, when 
you arrive at a new place, go to a bookseller 
and ask if there is not a local guide-book, as 
you will usually find that one has been written 
by an enthusiastic resident, which will tell you 
more than you can learn from any other source. 

Do not throw away your guide-books when 
you are done with them, but send them home 
by post to some one who will give them house- 
room until your return, as you will find them 
delightful to refer to, and even a glance at 
their shabby backs will transport you to Cam- 
bridge or Avignon or Palermo as quickly as the 
wishing-carpet. 

Hare's "Walks," in many different cities, are a 
valuable supplement to Murray or Baedeker, 
and while you may not agree with all of Rus- 
kin's dogmas about art, he is worth reading in 
Florence or Venice or Amiens. Mr. Henry 
James's " Little Tour in France " is a charming 
companion in Touraine or Provence, and the 
descriptions in his " Portraits of Places " are to 
those in an ordinary guide-book what a real 
portrait is to a photograph. 



GUIDE-BOOKS, DICTIONARIES, ETC. 63 

Mr. Symonds and Mr. Howells have given 
many people pleasure by what they have writ- 
ten of Italy and Switzerland, and Miss Edwards's 
" Untrodden Peaks and Unfrequented Valleys " 
is a traveller's classic for the Italian Tyrol. 
These are only a few of the books which will 
add to your pleasure, and I have given the 
names of a few more, after my notes of the 
countries to which they relate. 

As to dictionaries, the best small French one 
for general use is that of Bellows ; Nutt's Con- 
versation Dictionaries, for several languages, 
are also very good, but not easy to get in this 
country. The Tauchnitz dictionaries of French, 
Italian, and German are not too large to carry 
about, and those of Feller, the smallest of all, 
so far as I know, are wonderfully comprehen- 
sive, considering that they may be carried in 
the pocket — or might have been a few years 
ago ! 

In Baedeker's "Traveller's Manual of Con- 
versation in Four Languages," you will find 
many phrases which you can easily learn by 
heart, and Messrs. Cook & Co. have published 
a handbook of the same kind which is rather 
smaller, but very practical, and which costs 



64 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

There are some novels which it seems almost 
obligatory to read in the places to which they 
refer ; for instance, in every bookseller's win- 
dow in Florence you will find " Romola " in 
bindings of varying elaboration, and "The 
Marble Faun," and "The Last Days of Pom- 
peii," are as evident in Rome and Naples. 
Well known as these are, I have put them into 
a partial list of historical novels (in making 
which my own memory was much helped by 
Mrs. Dixson's exhaustive " Subject Index to 
Prose Fiction "), and I have also ventured to 
add a few of Scott's, although we are now 
sometimes told that he is no longer read. If 
Scott's history is not trustworthy, that of the 
elder Dumas is still less so, and yet I strongly 
recommend you to read some of his romances, 
if you have not done so already, as you will get 
from them a brilliant impression of what France 
was like two or three hundred years ago. 
Among English novelists, G. P. R. James and 
Harrison Ainsworth have been handed over to 
the healthy omnivorous appetite of boyhood, 
and yet there are duller books than the form- 
er's " Cavalier," or the latter's " Constable of 
the Tower." 

Jane Austen's novels are a mirror of English 



GUIDE-BOOKS, DICTIONARIES, ETC. 65 

middle-class social life in the last century, and 
you may get the same faithful reflection of it, 
as it was a few years ago, in those of a writer 
who, although he was not a genius, is now too 
little read — Anthony TroUope. Balzac created 
a world of men and women who were often 
rather types than characters, but when he put 
them in a setting of French provincial life, as 
in " Eugenie Grandet," or " Le Cure de Tours," 
the effect is of absolute reality, and this is 
true, although in a less degree, of some of 
George Sand's rural stories — " Frangois le 
Champi," for example. 

Even if you already know " Saracinesca," and 
the other volumes of the same series, there are 
some novels of Mr. Marion Crawford's which 
it is well worth while to read in the country 
which he knows as only a man can who loves it, 
and to whom the speech of its people is as his 
own. " Marzio's Crucifix " is unrivalled as a 
study of middle-class Roman society, which 
foreigners never see, and in many of his descrip- 
tions one feels how close he has come to the 
heart of the South. 

Signor Verga, who wrote the story of " Caval- 
leria Rusticana," and Signora Serao are among 
the best known of the modern Italian novelists, 



66 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

and many of their books have been translated 
into French or English. 

The German historical novel is apt to be a 
somewhat solemn and conscientious production, 
but there are many studies of modern life, 
especially in out-of-the-way places, which are 
extremely interesting. I have only given a few 
of these, but if you are fond of German you 
will find out more, and I recommend to you the 
sketches of burgher-life in Berlin, by Dr. Julius 
Stinde, which are called "Die Familie Buch- 
holz," and have been translated into English. 
They are broadly humorous, but the humour 
often deepens into satire, and the characters 
are developed with admirable simplicity. 



ABOUT BICYCLES 

The roads in Europe are almost everywhere 
excellent, and certain districts, such as the 
valley of the Loire, are especially well adapted 
for bicycling trips. It is not difficult to hire 
bicycles in any large place, but a woman who 
rides much gets used to her own, and may pre- 
fer to take it with her, especially as most of 
the best American makers have offices in the 
large cities, where any serious accident may 
be repaired. The steamship companies usually 
charge two dollars and a half for transporta- 
tion, and the bicycle must be securely boxed 
or crated. 

Messrs. F. O. Houghton & Co., steamship 
agents, 115 State Street, Boston, publish a 
concise and useful little pamphlet called " Bi- 
cycle Notes for Tourists," from which, by their 
permission, I have taken most of the following 
information. Brentano publishes a handbook 
called " The Cyclist's Continental Companion," 
which gives a summary of the principal routes 
in France, Italy, Germany, Switzerland, and 
67 



68 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

Holland, and Spurrier's " Route Book of Great 
Britain and Ireland," which is published in 
London, has good maps and clear instructions 
for the United Kingdom. 

Before you start you should have your bi- 
cycle thoroughly overhauled and put in order 
for hard work, and find out from the maker 
whereabouts he has agents abroad. The num- 
ber should be plainly stamped on some part of 
the frame which cannot be detached, and your 
name put on a plate where it may be easily 
seen. A bell, a lamp, and a brake are abso- 
lutely necessary. If you cover all the nickelled 
parts of your bicycle with vaseline before \t is 
boxed for the voyage, you will keep it from 
rusting, and you had also better take duplicates 
of any parts which are liable to break, and 
could not easily be repaired in an out-of-the-way 
place. 

The Cyclists' Touring Club of Great Britain 
and Ireland, commonly known as the " C. T. C," 
is one of the largest athletic associations in the 
world, having a membership of about fifty thou- 
sand, and as it is international, and easy to 
join, you should certainly do so. Its chief rep- 
resentative in America is Mr. Frank W. Wes- 
ton, Savin Hill, Boston, and the entrance fee 



ABOUT BICYCLES 69 

is thirty cents, the annual subscription being 
one dollar and thirty-five cents. Application 
to Mr. Weston should be made six weeks before 
you intend to leave America, in order to allow 
time for an answer from England, or if that is 
not convenient you may wait until you reach 
London, as there is no duty on bicycles brought 
into England. The executive offices of the 
American division of the C. T. C. are at 47 
Victoria Street, Westminster, and the secretary 
is Mr. E. P. Shipton. If you are a member of 
the L. A. W., or of any recognized amateur 
bicycling club, no other reference is necessary ; 
if you are not, you are expected to bring " rea- 
sonable and satisfactory proof of respectability 
and position," which it is not difficult to do. 

The advantages of belonging to the C. T. C. 
are various. While in England you profit by 
special rates at the inns and lodgings frequented 
by members of the club, and pay considerably 
less for your maps and road-books. 

When you first begin to ride remember with 
all your might and main that if you meet any 
person or vehicle you pass to the left. The 
habit of passing to the right is so ingrained 
with us that unless you are careful you may 
have a bad accident. 



TO EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

Membership in the C. T. C. is especially 
valuable if you are going to the Continent, as 
it entitles you to bring your bicycle free of 
duty into France, Belgium, Italy, and Switzer- 
land, which will save you time, money, and 
much wear and tear of temper. Get all the 
information you can from the headquarters be- 
fore leaving England, and keep your member- 
ship ticket where you will always be able to 
show it easily. For Italy, you must be provided 
with a special ticket ; in Austria, you are also 
required to have a passport, and in Switzerland, 
a ticket, a full description of your bicycle, and 
a photograph of yourself. 

The " Touring Club de France " corresponds 
to the C. T. C, and has at least as many 
members. Its headquarters are at 5 Rue 
Coq-Heron, Paris, and its representative in 
America, Mr. F. S. Hesseltine, 10 Tremont 
Street, Boston. It is not difficult to become 
a member, especially if you already belong to 
the L. A. W. or the English Club, and the 
subscription is one dollar a year, with twenty 
cents extra for an official guide giving the 
names of hotels, repair shops, etc., where a dis- 
count to members is allowed. Your card of 
membership must have your photograph on it, 



ABOUT BICYCLES 71 

and the name and number of your bicycle, and 
we are told that you have only to wear your 
badge to be assured of courteous treatment 
everywhere. French railways transport bi- 
cycles as luggage, and are responsible for any 
damage to them, but you can collect a larger 
indemnity if you have a first-class ticket. The 
very considerable revenue derived from the 
annual license tax imposed on the bicycles of 
all permanent residents is used to improve the 
public highways, and to place danger signals on 
the crest of all steep descents. 

In France, you pass to the right, as at home, 
but certain rules are more rigorously enforced 
than with us. You are required to have a 
gong or bell which can be heard for at least 
fifty yards. You must light your lamp as soon 
as the sun sets. The name and address of the 
owner must be on every bicycle. In crowded 
thoroughfares you must dismount and lead 
your prosaic steed, and you may not go on 
pavements or footpaths reserved for pedes- 
trians, except in the country, if the roadway 
is being mended and is therefore impassible. 
If you are thus on a footpath you must moder- 
ate your speed if you meet any one. It is not 
allowable to form groups which may obstruct 



72 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

the highway, and passing through a funeral or 
a military procession is strictly forbidden. 

In each country there are formalities which 
must be observed, but if you are a member of 
either of the two great clubs you can easily 
obtain all the necessary information in regard 
to them. 



CROSSING THE OCEAN 

Be careful to get down to the steamer in 
good time. The spectacle which may often be 
seen, of a cab galloping frantically along the 
dock, bearing a belated and haggard family 
who rush up the gang-plank just as it begins 
to move, is very amusing to those who look on, 
comfortably leaning over the rail, but not so 
pleasant to the people themselves. 

As soon as you are safely on board go to 
your cabin and see that all your belongings are 
in it, and if not, try to find your cabin steward 
and set him to collecting them. Do not, how- 
ever, attempt to see the purser for any reason 
until the ship starts, as he will be much too 
busy to be able to attend to you. 

When the ship has drawn away from the 
dock, it would be pleasant, if the day is fine, 
to watch the river and enjoy yourself on deck ; 
but if you are wise, and especially if it is your 
first crossing, you will go down into your cabin 
and get everything in order while there is no 
motion. Take off the frock you have been 
73 



74 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

wearing and fold it neatly, for everything that 
can get wrinkled or crushed at sea does so with 
delight ; unpack your steamer trunk, put on 
the frock you mean to wear during the cross- 
ing, and put away in the bottom of your box 
the one you wore aboard. If the hat in which 
you mean to land is perishable, bring a band- 
box in which to keep it, as if you hang it in the 
wardrobe of your cabin its feathers and flowers 
will be apt to look decidedly melancholy after 
a week of damp salt air. 

Settle your cabin as well as you can. Put 
your cologne bottle where you can get at it 
easily, and your tin of biscuits near at hand, 
and if you use one of the drawers above your 
washstand for your toilet things, be sure to 
spread something like a crumpled handkerchief 
in the bottom, or else as soon as the vessel 
begins to roll they will clatter and click to- 
gether, to your exasperation. It ought not to 
take you more than half an hour to get settled, 
and unless the weather has been extraordinarily 
bad, you will scarcely feel any motion for the 
first two hours after you leave the dock. 

It is hardly likely that you will be alone, 
and if you are not, arrange with your com- 
panion which berth she is to take, and how 



CROSSING THE OCEAN 75 

you shall each best avail yourselves of the 
very limited space at your disposal. During 
the voyage, you must scrupulously respect each 
other's rights and be as considerate as possible ; 
for instance, when you go to bed roll your 
clothes into neat parcels, and do not leave your 
skirts to swing to and fro with every roll of 
the ship, or your shoes to knock about on the 
floor. 

Ring for your cabin stewardess, make her 
acquaintance, and ask her to send you the bath 
stewardess. Say to her that you hope to be 
able to take a bath each day, and choose the 
hour which will suit you best. Breakfast on 
board ship is usually from eight o'clock until 
ten, and people who know they are good sailors 
often take their baths early, as they would do 
at home ; but those who are not sure to be so 
courageous should choose half -past nine or ten 
for their regular time, as one is usually awake 
by seven or half-past, and that allows a com- 
fortable interval after one's tea or coffee and 
yet gives time to dress before luncheon. 

When you have done all you can in your 
cabin, go in search of the steward whose busi- 
ness it is to seat people at table, and tell 
him you wish to be with your friends. This 



76 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

he can always arrange, and if you are one of 
a large party he will probably give you a table 
to yourselves, or at least see that you are all 
together. 

Find your way about the ship a little, and 
notice what staircase leads most conveniently 
from your cabin to the saloon or the deck, 
and also where the ladies' toilet room is. Then 
you will have done everything you can below 
stairs, and had better go to the deck, interview 
the deck steward, and tell him to take good 
care of you and to put your chair in a shel- 
tered position every morning. 

Heroic souls usually say that if you are going 
to be seasick, you had better let it come, and 
that you will feel all the better when it is over. 
It is certainly true that you can do a great 
deal to prevent feeling seasick by going on 
board with your digestion and liver in good 
order, and that if you are tired out and bilious, 
you will almost certainly succumb. I have 
known old captains who confessed to having 
been upset after too many good dinners on 
shore. It may do you no harm to be sick for a 
few hours, or a day or two, and you may feel 
perfectly well after it ; but for many women and 
young girls, especially if they are not very 



CROSSING THE OCEAN 77 

robust, it is a great strain. If you have had 
only a moderate attack, as soon as you feel 
better try to eat, if only a little. Dry biscuit 
or toast and a bit of ham or tongue seems to be 
about the best thing, and port wine, bitter 
ale, or champagne the most refreshing drink. 
Ginger ale is also good, if not found too 
sweet. 

If you mean to try the hyoscyamine and 
strychnine granules of Dr. Burggraeve, when 
you first wake in the morning take one of 
each in a swallow of water, then wait a quar- 
ter of an hour and take two more, until you 
have taken four of each ; then wait a couple 
of hours and take two again if you feel at all 
sick, repeating them at intervals during the 
day, but not oftener than once in two hours 
after the first doses. If the strychnine makes 
your throat very dry, do not take them so often, 
nor the hyoscyamine if it makes you feel at 
all light-headed. 

Fresh air is after all the best preventitive 
and cure for seasickness, and if you can strug- 
gle on deck, do so by all means, even if you do 
not leave it until bedtime. The deck steward 
is used to feeding helpless passengers, and there 
are some on every steamer who never occupy 



78 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

their seats at the table at all, but we will sup- 
pose that you are to be more fortunate. 

If you have anything the matter with you 
while on board ship beyond seasickness, or if 
that lasts too long, you had better consult the 
ship's physician, as every passenger steamer is 
obliged by law to carry one. He is not re- 
quired, however, to attend any except the 
steerage and second-class passengers, and you 
should pay him as much as you would your 
own doctor at home, although he will not send 
you any bill. 

The scale of tips depends somewhat upon 
the cost of your cabin, and also upon the 
amount of trouble which you give the attend- 
ants. Remember, by the way, that the people 
who wait on you are always known as " stew- 
ards " and " stewardesses," and they are apt to 
feel injured if called by any other name. 

On the ships of the larger companies the cabin 
stewardess is supposed to receive twenty shil- 
lings, or its equivalent, for each room, which 
would be equal to two dollars and a half 
apiece if the room has two occupants, and the 
cabin steward, who helps the stewardess, ex- 
pects five shillings. Three shillings is usually 
quite enough for the deck steward, unless he 



CROSSING THE OCEAN 79 

has waited on you a great deal ; the head 
steward and your dining-room steward should 
have five shillings, and your bath stewardess 
three. I have said "shillings," but if you 
go in a French or German steamer, francs or 
marks represent the unit. 

These tips are supposing you are practically 
well all the time, able to go to your meals, and 
do not give much trouble ; but if you have to 
be fed on deck or in your room all the time, 
the deck steward or your stewardess should be 
proportionately remembered, and if you have 
much kept in the ice-room, the pantry steward 
should also have a couple of shillings. 

Some of the German steamship lines have 
music on board, which is furnished by the 
second cabin stewards, and they expect to 
receive a small fee from each passenger. 

One or two simple words connected with 
ships are as well to learn as soon as you go on 
board, if you do not know them before. There 
is no such thing as front or back, right or left. 
The front of the ship is " forward," called " for- 
rard" or the "bow," the back is the "stern," 
called " aft." If you go to the front, you walk 
" forrard " or toward the " bow " ; if you go in 
the other direction it is "aft" or toward the 



80 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

"stern." The right side of the ship as you 
stand facing the " bow " is always called " star- 
board" ; and the left side, "port." It is easy 
to remember which is which, if you will think 
that " port " and " left " have both the same 
number of letters. 

For purposes of discipline and to divide the 
work fairly on board ship, the crew is mus- 
tered into gangs which are called watches, and 
are each on duty four hours. Time is kept 
by means of "bells." A bell is struck every 
half hour after midnight until eight bells 
have been sounded, and then they begin again ; 
except between four o'clock in the afternoon 
and eight o'clock in the evening, when there 
are two short watches of two hours each, known 
as the "dog watch," and made in order that 
the same men shall not always be on duty at 
the same time. 

Eight bells are struck at noon, at four p.m., at 
eight P.M., at midnight, at four A.M., and eight 
A.M. For example, at half -past eight A.M., one 
bell is struck, at nine, two bells, and so on until 
noon. In a very short time you can learn the 
way of counting by them, and need not trouble 
to keep your watch set by the ship's clock. 
There is five hours' difference in time between 



CROSSING THE OCEAN 81 

England or France and America, and while 3^011 
are on your way to Europe you will gain, because 
you are going east. 

There are always valiant souls on board ship 
who behave exactly as if they Avere on land. 
They dress early, appear in good time at the 
breakfast table, and walk vigorously up and 
down the deck between meals; but for most 
people this is too energetic a routine. If you 
are an average sailor, as soon as you are 
fairly awake, ring for the stewardess, ask 
her to bring you your tea or coffee, and take 
with that a bit of biscuit or toast. Then rest 
until you feel like having your bath, which will 
probably be about half -past nine. That is usu- 
ally one of the pleasantest occupations of the 
day, the warm or cold salt water in the large 
marble or porcelain tub being a great luxury. 
If you dress slowly after it you will probably 
get on deck about half -past eleven, in time for 
bouillon, which the steward brings on a tray, 
and then you will settle yourself in your chair, 
swathed like a cocoon in your rug, until lunch- 
eon time. After luncheon the long stretch 
of the afternoon seems endless, but it goes by 
somehow, and, as the dusk begins to fall, it is 
time to dress for dinner. If you sit on the deck 



82 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

in the evening, be sure to wrap yourself up well, 
as it is always damper than in daytime. 

Under ordinary circumstances, even if you 
have suffered from seasickness, after the first 
few days you will begin to recover and take an 
interest in life again. You will even think 
of writing home. If you do, get your post- 
age-stamps from the purser in good time, and 
also have your money changed, if you should 
need it, as every one has a way of rushing at him 
on the last day before reaching port, and his stock 
is sometimes exhausted. People travelling for 
the first time sometimes forget that American 
postage-stamps are of no use in Europe, but it 
is the business of a ship's purser to keep those 
of the country in which you will land. 

And now a word as to your behaviour. It 
is a disagreeable fact that some American girls 
contrive to put themselves at a disadvantage 
from the time they leave their own country. 
A ship's company is a little world with all 
sorts and conditions of men and women in it, 
and not all of them always unobjectionable. 
As you are shut up together for some days, it 
is usually impossible, unless you have a large 
party of your own friends, to keep entirely 
aloof from other passengers, and a reasonable 



CROSSING THE OCEAN 88 

amount of liberty is allowed. For instance, 
if you are struggling along the deck against a 
high wind, trying to keep your wraps to- 
gether, the first man you meet will probably 
help you to your chair, and after a day or two 
you will very likely have a speaking acquaint- 
ance with people whom you never saw before 
you came on board ; but that is no reason 
why such acquaintanceship should grow faster 
than it would under normal circumstances on 
shore. Many girls have afterwards bitterly 
regretted having been too amiable when stran- 
gers tried to make friends with them at sea, 
and the very fact that you are so closely 
thrown together is a reason for your being 
more careful than if it were easier to get away 
from each other. A pushing person, encour- 
aged perhaps because you had nothing better to 
do, may become an intolerable nuisance after 
you land or when you are both at home again. 



ENGLAND 

At last, or all too soon, you are getting near 
" the other side," and we will suppose that you 
are going to land in England, in which case 
you had better give a little time to studying 
the different pieces of English money, which 
is somewhat perplexing until one gets used to 
it. That aristocratic but obsolete coin, the 
guinea, which has not been made for eighty 
years and is not in circulation, is still constantly 
spoken of as a standard of value, meaning a 
pound and a shilling, consequently two guineas 
is forty-two shillings. Although one com- 
monly speaks of a five-pound note, or of four 
pounds, one pound is almost always called a 
sovereign, ten shillings a half-sovereign, and 
two and sixpence is usually known as half-a- 
crown. The crown, worth five shillings, is 
sometimes met with, but not so often as the 
smaller silver coins, and there is a new four- 
shilling piece which is not looked on with 
favour by English people. The difference be- 
tween the two-shilling piece and the half-crown 
84 



ENGLAND 85 

is troublesome until you get to know them apart 
by the sense of touch. The half-crown is about 
the size of our fifty -cent piece, although there is 
more silver in it, but the two-shilling piece is 
bigger than our quarter. They all have on one 
side the head of Queen Victoria, and the half- 
crown has on its back a single shield bearing 
the arms of Great Britain. The old issue of 
the two-shilling piece or "florin," as it was 
sometimes called, has four small shields so 
arranged that they form a cross, which renders 
it easily distinguishable at a glance ; but the 
new piece has three shields surmounted by a 
crown, the whole making a triangle, which is 
not nearly so noticeable. You should learn as 
soon as possible to tell these coins apart easily, 
not so much because you may pay the wrong 
money in a shop, for there you will be cor- 
rected, as because you may give either more 
or less than you intend in a tip, and in Eng- 
land the difference between two shillings and 
half-a-crown seems to be more than the mere 
money value. Shillings and sixpences are easily 
learned ; the smallest silver piece is worth three- 
pence ; then there are pennies and half-pennies 
of copper, and also farthings, though the latter 
are not common in fashionable London. 



86 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 



The following comparison of the value of 

English and American coins is very rough, and 

simply made for your convenience. At any 

banker's, or if you are sending a post-office 

money-order, you will be given the accurate 

rate. 

English. American. 



Half-penny (ha'penny) 
One penny 

Twopence (tuppence) 
Threepence (thrippence) 

A shilling 

Two-shilling piece 
Half-a-crown 
Four shillings 
Five shillings 
Ten shillings 
A sovereign 



One cent. 

Two cents. 

Four cents. 

Six cents. 
/ Twenty-four cents (or our 
I quarter) . 

Half-a-dollar. 

Sixty-two cents. 

One dollar. 

One dollar and a quarter. 

Two dollars and a half. 

Five dollars. 



Bank-notes for five pounds (or twenty-five 
dollars) are the smallest denomination now 
made in England, although Scotland still issues 
notes for a single pound which, however, do 
not pass current across her border. There is 
nothing in England corresponding to our 
national bank system. The beautiful crisp 
white notes all come from "the old lady in 
Threadneedle Street," as the Bank of England 
used familiarly to be called, and as soon as a 



ENGLAND 87 

note finds its way back to the bank, it is imme- 
diately destroyed, even if it sliould be as fresh 
as when issued, the consequence being that the 
bank-notes are cleaner and pleasanter to handle 
than those of any other country in the world. 

The Bank of England is one of the sights of 
London, and the head beadle in his robes of 
office one of the most august functionaries you 
will ever encounter ; the lord chancellor him- 
self is not nearly so imposing. 

It must be remembered that money goes 
much further abroad in some ways than it does 
with us. So many Americans have been lavish 
in their expenditure, especially as to tips, that 
we are as a nation expected to pay or give more 
than other people, and it is hard at first to hit 
the proper mean between stinginess and prodi- 
gality. On general principles I should say 
that in the matter of fees a coin is worth about 
twice as much as with us. Twopence or three- 
pence (always called tuppence or thrippence) go 
as far as ten cents at home. Sixpence is equal 
to a quarter, a shilling to fifty cents, and half-a- 
crown to a dollar. The scale of tips is higher in 
England than in Scotland or Ireland, because 
the country is richer, and on the Continent one 
gives more in France than in Italy or Germany. 



88 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

And now let us go back to the steamer again, 
for you must be nearing land. Do not leave 
your packing until the last minute unless you 
are actually too ill to do it at all, because the 
approach to a strange country is always in- 
teresting, and it is stupid to be in your cabin 
while the vessel is going up the Mersey or 
the Solent. If your port is Southampton, and 
you are so lucky as to sail along the Isle of 
Wight on a fair summer morning, you will be 
hard to please if you do not feel the charm of 
England. The sky is soft, with clouds nearer 
the green earth than they are in our thinner air, 
and every colour has been mellowed by the 
persistent gentle touch of rain into a delicate 
half-tone. It is borne in on you that it has 
all been there for a long time, and if you have 
any English blood in your veins you know what 
Hawthorne meant when he wrote of " Our Old 
Home." 

Nearly all the steamship lines now land their 
passengers directly at piers; but in certain 
conditions of tide or weather they are sent 
ashore in small tenders, which if it is wet is 
apt to be a rather uncomfortable process. 

The English custom-house is not very for- 
midable, and women travelling alone are apt to 



ENGLAND 89 

have an easier time than men because what 
every custom-house looks out for principally 
is tobacco and spirits. French perfumery, to 
be sure, pays a duty in England, but one has 
not usually enough of that to make it worth 
considering. 

If you bought your ticket through from New 
York to London, it probably includes first-class 
railway accommodations from the port at which 
you land, and in after journeys you can decide 
for yourself by which class you will travel. 
The difference of fare from Southampton to 
Waterloo Station, a distance of seventy-nine 
miles, is as follows: the first class is thirteen 
shillings; second class, eight shillings; third 
class, six shillings and sixpence, just half the 
price of the first. Many of the nicest English 
people always travel third class, except per- 
haps when they are going on long journeys, 
such as that between London and Edinburgh. 

For ordinary distances, if you do not care 
about being alone, third class is entirely prac- 
ticable ; but if you are going through the 
"black country," or into the mining district, 
where there is a rough population (which you 
can easily find out from your guide-book), it 
"will be, perhaps, wiser to choose first class. 



90 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

Unless you are much hurried, I advise you to 
stop for a few days at Chester or Winchester, 
depending upon whether you have landed at 
Liverpool or Southampton. Both places are 
very interesting and characteristic, and, although 
they are on the highroad of travel, the greater 
part of it rushes past them, hurrying to the 
great city or to the sea. 

Do not be surprised if you feel languid and 
tired after landing ; that is frequently the 
result of the voyage and also of the English 
climate, which Americans are apt to find at first 
very relaxing. By resting for a few days be- 
fore going into the stress of London, you will 
give yourself time to get acclimated, and will 
also get a first impression which no subsequent 
travel will ever efface. 

When the porter has trundled the hand 
luggage of your party alongside the railway 
carriage at the dock (for which sixpence will 
be quite enough, unless you have a great deal), 
climb in, and if you are the first, take places by 
one of the windows and any others which you 
may choose, but sit together at one end of the 
carriage, and have your small pieces put in the 
rack above your heads. If there are people in 
the carriage already, and you wish to be by your- 



ENGLAND 91 

selves, tell the porter that you want to speak to 
the guard, as the conductor of an English train 
is called. When he comes, say to him that you 
would like, if possible, to have a carriage for 
your party, when he will unlock another at 
once and you will find yourselves installed 
alone. For this, you will give him a shilling 
later. When, however, the ship's company 
is very large, the special train sent to meet it 
is sometimes crowded, and even the most oblig- 
ing guard cannot create space. 

The question of the advantage or disadvan- 
tage of the European railway carriage is about 
even, like that of their luggage system. If you 
are lucky enough to have a carriage to yourself 
or with only one other person, supposing you 
are three in your own party, you have much 
more privacy than is possible in a Pullman car, 
and you can also control at least one of the 
windows, so that you need not stifle. The 
seats are also more comfortable than the Pull- 
man chairs, because one can move about more 
in them. But if the carriage is crowded, the 
people seem more objectionably near than in 
our cars, and one person who objects to venti- 
lation may torture all the others by refusing 
to have the windows open at all. 



92 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

Before you start, make up your minds how 
you want to sit as to going backward or for- 
ward. Seats in the English railway carriages 
face each other, and consequently half the 
people must go with their backs to the engine, 
which many prefer, as the dust and wind fly 
past if the window is open, and not directly 
into one's face ; but many people are made un- 
comfortable by sitting backward during a long 
journey, and there is no glory in being an ama- 
teur martyr. The ideal travelling companions 
are two people, one of whom likes to sit facing 
the engine and the other with her back to 
it, because between them they can control a 
window. 

All railway companies are obliged by Act 
of Parliament to run one train a day at the rate 
of a penny a mile ; this goes very slowly, and 
is known as the " Parliamentary train," which is 
puzzling at first to Americans, as they naturally 
think of something like the " Congressional 
limited," which it does not resemble at all, as 
it is used almost entirely, like some of our 
accommodation trains, by country people who 
are in no hurry. 

"Bradshaw's Railway Guide," which is also 
issued for the Continent, is the classic English 



ENGLAND 93 

railway time-table, and if you are clever in this 
branch of literature, you will find it of great use. 
A simpler manual, known as the "A. B.C. Rail- 
way Guide," only gives the routes and fares to 
and from London ; but for that it is exceedingly 
useful, as you can look up any place in the 
United Kingdom and see at once how to get 
there from the metropolis and how to return. 
The prices of the railway fares in each class are 
also marked, and it has a map of London and a 
schedule of cab fares. 

Let me recommend you not to throw away 
your time-tables when you are coming home. 
"Bradshaw," or its Continental fellows, the 
French " Indicateur des Chemins de Fer," or 
the Italian " Orario," are useful for future 
reference because, although the times of trains 
may change, the distance between places does 
not, and the cost of travel remains about the 
same. 

The method of forwarding luggage in Eng- 
land will probably strike you at first as showing 
a sublime confidence in human nature. When 
you arrive at a station to go anywhere, you 
call a porter, and point out the pieces which you 
wish to take into the carriage with you ; the rest 
are put upon a hand truck and wheeled away 



94 EUROPEAN TEAVEL FOE WOMEN 

to be labelled, you following. The truck is 
pushed upon scales, and if you have an out- 
rageous quantity you are charged for it ; but 
they are much more liberal as to this than on 
the Continent. A little label with the name 
of the station to which you are bound is then 
stuck upon each piece, but you are given no 
receipt, nor anything at all corresponding to 
our claim checks. Your belongings then trun- 
dle off toward the luggage van, and you feel 
as if you were never going to see them again. 
When you get to your journey's end, you go 
with another porter to claim them, and in a few 
moments your boxes have been extracted from 
the mass and are again collected on a small 
truck. Here the advantage of some distin- 
guishing mark on the end of a trunk is obvious, 
as you can say, " All those with the black cross 
(or the red spot) are mine." In the beginning, 
you miss the system of baggage transfer and 
checking ; but when you have been abroad for 
some time you see that the other plan has its 
advantages, one being that when you arrive at 
a place you get your luggage at once, and you 
also have it with you until just before you start. 
It is, of course, very convenient to be able to 
give one's checks in the train and not have to 



ENGLAND 95 

think of them again ; but we have all of us 
known what it was to be solemnly assured by a 
transfer agent that our luggage would arrive 
" within an hour," and to be still without it at 
the end of five. It is the fashion to abuse the 
foreign system, but from my own experience 
and that of many others whom I have known I 
believe that the percentage of loss is certainly 
not greater than it is in this country. 

On some English railways a method somewhat 
like that of our checking is now coming into use ; 
but the old way is not really so hazardous as it 
at first seems, because every one goes, or sends 
a servant, to claim his luggage as soon as he 
gets to his destination, and any one else who 
attempted to do so would be promptly arrested. 
If you go from London to Cobham, for in- 
stance, your box, which has been duly marked 
" Cobham " before you start, is put out on the 
station platform there, and you identify it at 
once. 

In case you have to change from one train to 
another, if you are prudent you will make sure 
each time that your luggage changes with you ; 
although, if you are able to buy a through 
ticket, your luggage will be labelled with the 
name of its final station when you start. 



96 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

There is no local express in England ; every 
one carries his own belongings on the roof of 
his cab, which in the country and in small 
towns is called a ''fly." According to the 
dictionary this is "a light vehicle which plies 
for hire" — it is certainly not named from 
its speed. 

There are many cabs always waiting at every 
station in London, and you will probably never 
need anything else, but if by any chance you 
should be travelling with a large party who 
have a quantity of luggage, you may as well 
order a station omnibus to meet you, which is 
very easy to do. 

Find out at which of the many London sta- 
tions you are due, and address the station 
master, saying, '' Have omnibus meet train at 
four o'clock, " or whenever the time is, and sign 
your full name. 

Inside the station you will find a row of omni- 
buses drawn up near the train, and if you walk 
down the line, saying, " Which is the omnibus 
for so and so ? " when you come to the right 
man he will answer, and hold out your own 
telegram as a voucher. Then, when your lug- 
gage has been collected, it is put on top of the 
omnibus, and you all get inside and are driven 



ENGLAND 97 

wherever you wish to go ; and when you are 
come to your lodgings or hotel, you ask the 
porter or servant at the door to pay for the 
omnibus and give the driver whatever is right, 
and put it on the bill. 

In Europe the telegraph is under the control 
of the government instead of being managed 
by private companies, and in England it is con- 
ducted in connection with the post-office. The 
manner of sending a telegram differs from ours. 
You ask for a blank, or " form " as it is called, 
write what you want to say, and then show it 
to the clerk at the window, who will look at it, 
tell you what it costs, and give you several 
postage-stamps ; these represent the price of 
your telegram and are to be stuck by you 
on the blank as if for the postage on a letter ; 
then you hand it in through the window to 
him again. 

Telegrams may be sent to all parts of the 
United Kingdom at the rate of sixpence for 
the first twelve words, but these words include 
the address of the person to whom it is sent. 
Each word beyond twelve costs a halfpenny. 

In most provincial towns in England the tel- 
egraph offices are open from eight to ten a.m. 
on Sundays ; and in Scotland and Ireland from 



y» EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

nine to ten A.M., instead of between five and 
six P.M. as with us. 

No sensible person will drop into the world 
which is London without having an idea before- 
hand of where to go, and as to this you had 
better consult friends who have already been 
there. The huge hotels built to attract Ameri- 
cans are of all degrees of splendour and costli- 
ness, and they must serve their purpose, or their 
number would not increase ; but they are really 
as alien to England as are the palm trees in 
their halls. 

The pleasantest months of the year in Lon- 
don are May, June, and July, but during that 
time " the season " is in full swing, and every- 
thing is crowded ; if you mean to be there then 
it is really necessary to engage your rooms 
beforehand. 

When an Englishman comes "up to town" 
with his family he stops either at a small hotel 
or in lodgings ; and both of these are scattered 
everywhere in London, their price depending on 
the neighbourhood. In the strangers' quarter 
near Bond Street and Piccadilly, both hotels 
and lodgings are dearer than anywhere else. 
English people often prefer the neighbourhood 
of Sloane Street or " out Kensington way," 



ENGLAND 99 

which has, however, the disadvantage of being 
rather remote for strangers. If you do not 
mind being unfashionable, there are very pleas- 
ant lodgings in many of the small streets off 
the Strand, or near the Marble Arch, at the 
Oxford Street end of Hyde Park; the whole 
district around the British Museum is also full 
of them, for the convenience of students. 
Prices vary so much that it is hard to set any 
standard, but two good bedrooms and a sitting 
room may be had for two guineas a week, and 
that in a desirable neighbourhood. The Eng- 
lish idea is that each lodger shall have as much 
privacy as possible ; there is no common dining 
room, and each family is served in its own 
sitting room. You ring the door-bell, are ad- 
mitted by a servant, go to your own rooms, 
and when you are ready to go out you go down 
again, and between those times you are as much 
alone as if you were in your own house. 

There are two arrangements possible to 
make about your meals. You may either order 
what you like and the landlady will buy it, or 
else you may agree to pay so much a day for 
breakfast, luncheon, afternoon tea, and dinner ; 
this latter plan is considerably less expensive, 
besides saving the traveller trouble. 

U.#0. 



100 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

In the lodgings which cost two guineas a 
week, one shilling was charged to each person 
for breakfast, a shilling and sixpence for lunch- 
eon, sixpence for afternoon tea, and half-a- 
crown for dinner, with no charge for any meal 
if the lodgers gave notice beforehand that they 
were not to be at home. This made the board 
and lodging for two people cost about thirteen 
dollars a week. 

If you do not wish to go home for luncheon, 
there are a great many restaurants in London 
run by the Aerated Bread Company, known as 
the " A.B.C.'s," which are fairly good and per- 
fectly respectable ; a lady may go to one of 
them alone with entire propriety. 

The small hotels differ only from lodgings 
in that they hold more people, usually anywhere 
from twenty to forty. Families staying there 
are also often served in their rooms, but there 
is a general dining room, called a "coffee room," 
in which you may have your meals at a little 
table. Even in the larger hotels there is no 
ladies' entrance, but only one door through 
which men and women alike come and go ; nor 
is there any office where cigars, newspapers, 
theatre tickets, etc., are sold. 

I do not know what there may or may not be 



ENGLAND 101 

in the great hotels run chiefly for foreigners ; I 
am speaking of the smaller ones in which ladies 
travelling alone would naturally prefer to stay. 
There is nothing corresponding to the Ameri- 
can plan. There may be, and often is, a fixed 
price for luncheon and dinner ; but you pay 
when you take your meals in the hotel, and 
not when you are out. The usual English 
breakfast consists of tea, fried bacon or a bit 
of fish, muffins, and marmalade or jam. You 
may order coffee if you prefer it, but if you 
want meat it is charged extra. For luncheon 
there are several cold meats, all of them ex- 
cellent ; you are given your choice of cold 
beef, cold chicken, and cold ham, and there 
are usually potatoes and some vegetable belong- 
ing to the cabbage family. Salad and cheese 
follow. If you are dependent on hot meat, 
you must order it beforehand, and pay for it 
extra. Tea and coffee are never drunk except 
with the first meal in the morning and late in 
the afternoon ; for luncheon and dinner almost 
every one in England and on the Continent 
takes either wine, spirits, ale, or mineral water. 
Englishmen seem to be as dependent as women 
on their afternoon tea, however, and in the 
most out-of-the-way places it is easy to get. 



102 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

The day after you reach London you will 
probably want to go to your banker's, to draw 
some money. Take your letter of credit, which 
is also your letter of introduction, and leave 
your address so that the clerk may forward 
any letters which come for you. If you expect 
to spend some time in London, and also a good 
deal of money, you may draw out a sum on 
your letter of credit, and deposit it with the 
banker, who will then give you a cheque-book, 
and you may draw against your deposit. This 
is sometimes done where you mean to make a 
long stay, but for a short visit it is simpler to 
draw what money you want, and pay your bills 
in cash. 

The method of getting money on your letter 
of credit is simple and always the same. You 
hand it to the clerk and say how much you 
want ; he then, after a while, brings you a slip 
of paper with the memorandum of the amount, 
which you sign. Be careful to write your 
name exactly as you have already done on 
the letter of credit, as it is by the comparison 
of the two signatures that the banker is able to 
be sure that you are yourself. The memo- 
randum is a receipt which he forwards to the 
original banking-house, to show how much you 



ENGLAND 103 

have drawn, and the sum is also marked on 
your letter of credit ; in this way you can 
always tell just how much you are spending. 

Make it a rule not to draw much money at 
any one time. It is troublesome to go to the 
banker's, but much more so to be robbed, of 
which there is ahvays a chance. 

If there is any reason why you should call 
at the American Embassy, it is proper to do 
so within a day or two after your arrival, but 
it is not a necessity. 

Many Americans seem to think that ambassa- 
dors are sent abroad in order to act as masters 
of ceremonies to their fellow country people, 
but this is an erroneous impression. Your am- 
bassador will protect your rights if they should 
be in any way threatened ; you are perfectly 
justified in appealing to him if you are wrong- 
fully arrested, if there is any attempt made to 
extort money from you, or if you are unjustly 
treated in any way ; but it is unreasonable to 
expect that he shall get you invitations, or 
even to think that he is bound to entertain you 
himself. If you are in London on the Fourth 
of July, the house of your ambassador will be 
open to you as to all other Americans ; but if 
you have not known him at home, you have 



104 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

no right to consider yourself slighted if you 
are not invited to any other entertainment. 

You will certainly soon want to go to some 
shop where you may buy guide-books, maps, 
etc. Either at Smith's, 63 Charing Cross, or 
Stanford's, 26 Cockspur Street, among others, 
you will find any amount of these, and can 
choose just what you want, whether you intend 
to bicycle, to visit the cathedral towns, to make 
pilgrimages to historic spots, or, in fact, to do 
anything for which you will need guides. It 
is a great mistake to attempt, as some people 
do, to get on without them, just as it is a mis- 
take to avoid what are called "beaten paths." 
Paths are beaten because they lead from one 
interesting place to another, and the things 
which are described in the guide-books are gen- 
erally those best worth seeing. Vainglorious 
souls who go through foreign galleries con- 
vinced that they will be sure to find the most 
remarkable pictures, will simply waste a great 
deal of time over second-rate masters which 
they might better have given to those who are 
really great. 

Your stock of guide-books may be limited 
only by your capacity to take them about with 
you. Baedeker is the traveller's maid-of-all- 



ENGLAND 105 

work ; of it and Murray I have already spoken, 
and there is at the end of this section a list 
of some other books which you may find pleas- 
ant and useful in England. 

The sights of London are enough to last one 
a lifetime, but there are some which may 
almost be called obligatory, and among these is 
Westminster Abbey. Sir Christopher Wren 
did not improve it when he added towers in the 
taste of his day, and the extraordinary collec- 
tion of statues which throng its aisles and 
nave is certainly not artistic as a whole, and 
yet any one who cannot feel a very distinct 
emotion when she first enters its doors is much 
to be pitied. 

The best time to go there is on Monday or 
Tuesday, because those are free days. Of 
course there is a crowd, but it is an exception- 
ally well-behaved one, and yon may wander 
about at your will and see as much as you 
like, whereas on the other days when you 
have to pay sixpence or a shilling you are 
hurried along by a verger in about fifteen 
minutes, and have no time to look at anything. 
Hare's account of Westminster Abbey is fuller 
than that given in either Murray or Baedeker, 
and neither of them call attention, as he does, 



106 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

to one of the most curious sights to be seen 
there. By paying threepence on Mondays and 
Tuesdays, and on other days sixpence, you are 
allowed to climb a steep, winding stair above 
the Islip Chapel, and there in a little room are 
the " Effigies," which are life-sized figures with 
wax faces, once carried at the funerals of the 
people whom they represent; eleven now re- 
main, one of the most curious being that of 
Queen Elizabeth. 

You will also want to see the Houses of 
Parliament, which are shown to strangers on 
Saturdays when Parliament is sitting, and 
oftener, I think, when it is not. The English 
are individually and as a nation the greatest col- 
lectors in the world, and the British Museum, 
the South Kensington Museums, and the Na- 
tional Gallery are worth all the time you can 
possibly give them ; indeed, if you know the 
last well you will have a very good idea of the 
different schools of painting before you meet 
the masters on their own ground in the Conti- 
nental galleries. This talent for amassing and 
classifying is not compatible with a sense of 
dramatic effect, which the English rather de- 
spise as an attribute of the Latin races, and the 
consequence is that several of their grandest 



ENGLAND 107 

monuments do not produce the impression 
which they properly should. The Tower is a 
striking instance of this ; before you go, and 
after you come away, if you have any historical 
sense you must be conscious of the accumula- 
tion of history for which the great building 
stands ; but while one follows the Beefeater 
on his round one sees so many things, all 
crowded together, some interesting and some 
not, that it is hard to feel anything except 
that one is accomplishing a duty. 

If you are interested in human nature, learn 
to watch the people of a place when they are 
sight-seers, like yourself, for then they are 
usually absorbed, and therefore unconscious 
and natural ; the types which you will see at 
the Tower, or in Westminster Abbey on a free 
day, are entirely unlike those which you may 
meet in a little while at the Invalides or in 
Notre Dame. Let me repeat the advice I have 
given already, not to spend too much time at a 
stretch in a gallery or museum ; an hour and 
a half or two hours should be the utmost limit 
of the visit ; after that the brain becomes like 
a soaked sponge, and, although you may think 
you are noticing things, you will not remember 
them. 



108 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

Try to plan your going about so that you will 
not waste more time than is necessary. London 
is vast beyond comparison with any other city, 
and unless you arrange your sight-seeing with 
some sort of method, or your visits or errands, 
whichever they may be, you will lose half your 
day. 

In making your list of sights, do not be 
misled by the words " open daily," as that never 
includes Sunday unless it is distinctly so stated; 
many more places are now open than formerly, 
but it is well to make sure before risking 
an expedition. If you can get an order of 
admission from a Fellow of the Zoological 
Society, by all means go to its Gardens on a 
Sunday afternoon, but they are absolutely 
closed to the general public on that day. 

London is rather dreary on Sundays, espe- 
cially in the spring, and if possible you should 
arrange to go to Hampton Court, Richmond, 
the Crystal Palace, or somewhere else, as you 
can. The disadvantage is that all trains are 
crowded, but if you are willing to pay first- 
class fare you will nearly always find plenty of 
room. 

Instead of going all the way to Hampton 
Court by rail it is pleasant to take the train 



ENGLAND 109 

to Richmond, and after landing there to hire 
a rowboat and go the rest of the way by 
water. From London to Richmond the Thames 
has nothing to show but muddy banks, but from 
Richmond to Hampton Court it is charming in 
summer, and you will see the house-boats on 
" the stream of pleasure," and the villas by the 
shore. Then you can go back to Richmond 
by a coach, and from there to London by 
train or boat, or else you can go directly by 
train from Hampton Court. 

The excursion to Greenwich by the penny 
boat is not in itself particularly attractive ; 
but you get an effective view of part of the 
water front of the monstrous city, and you 
will probably be surrounded by a character- 
istic though perfectly respectable crowd of 
the lower class of Londoners. And if the next 
Sunday after church, during the season, you 
will take a chair at Hyde Park corner while 
some of the handsomest men and women in 
the world, belonging to the English upper 
class, walk up and down, you can form a good 
idea of the mighty strength of our common 
race. The impression left in the traveller's 
mind by London is that of power, as in Paris 
it is of beauty, and in Rome of historic charm. 



110 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

Whatever you do, try to avoid being in Lon- 
don on a Bank Holiday, and if you must be 
there do not try to go out of it. Some of 
the Bank Holidays correspond with the festi- 
vals of the calendar, such as Good Friday, 
Easter Monday, Whit Monday, and Christmas 
Day, but besides these the first Monday in 
August is kept, and the day after Christmas, 
always known in England as " Boxing Day," 
because any one who has the slightest claim 
on you (and many who have not) then expect 
a small Christmas box, or tip. The Bank 
Holiday which falls on the first Monday in 
August may well take you unawares, because 
we are not used to anything of the kind at 
home, and if you attempt to go out of London 
on that day you will find the experience more 
curious than pleasing. Every railway is 
crowded with trains almost touching each 
other, each one jammed full of excursionists, 
or, as they are called there, "trippers." It 
seems as if London had emptied itself toward 
any place of amusement at all accessible ; 
there are few first-class carriages on the trains 
because there would be few people to go in 
them, and the roads are so crowded that you 
are certain to be behind time. 



ENGLAND 111 

The best and pleasantest way to see the streets 
is to ride on the tops of the "busses." The 
climb is formidable, but the guard is always 
there to help you, and if you possibly can, try 
to sit near the driver, who, if he is properly 
approached, will give you any amount of infor- 
mation, and loves to discourse. 

London is covered with a network of omnibus 
lines which are owned by private individuals, 
and there is great rivalry among them. Do not 
try to decide for yourself which one you want, 
for there are myriads, each one so covered with 
advertisements that it is almost impossible to 
see from whence it comes or where it is going. 
It seems strange to an American to find a 
policeman always at hand, but they are in 
London, and will cheerfully tell you which 
omnibus to take. On Sundays many of these 
are used for excursions into the country, and 
you can often take little trips in this way for a 
very small sum. 

It is also almost incredible, but in Europe an 
omnibus or tram will not stop for you when 
it is already full. If you hail one in Lon- 
don and there is no place either inside or out, 
the driver takes no notice and the conductor 
shakes his head. It is sometimes annoying to 



112 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

have two or three trundle past in this manner, 
but that is made up for by the certainty of a 
seat when at last one stops. 

Cab fares in London are calculated at the rate 
of one shilling for two miles, and sixpence for 
every additional mile within the four mile 
radius, which is reckoned from Charing Cross. 
The fare for hansoms and four-wheelers is the 
same. If you are in doubt as to how much 
to give, look at your watch when you get in, 
and pay at the rate of a penny a minute. 
This will allow ten miles an hour, a rate at 
which they never go, although they drive 
fast, and therefore it is a perfectly safe esti- 
mate. If you want to go for a long dis- 
tance, any policeman will always tell you the 
fare before you start. If you take a cab by the 
hour, it is two and sixpence for the first hour 
and two shillings an hour afterward, and if you 
have a cabby for some time, it is usual to give 
him a little more than his fare, but there is no 
obligatory tip as on the Continent. No matter 
how short a distance you drive, you never give 
less than a shilling ; and if you take a cab from 
one of the many stands which are everywhere 
in London, the man at the head of the line has a 
right to be hailed first, because each cabby, as he 



ENGLAND 113 

comes back, takes his place at the end of the file, 
and thus moves up gradually. There is noth- 
ing to prevent your choosing any cab in the 
rank, if the horse in the first cab seems poor 
or tired ; but other things being equal, it is 
well to be fair. The horses in hansoms are 
usually better than those in four-wheelers, and 
the cabbies more amiable, and they certainly 
drive faster. 

There is no city in the world in which it is so 
easy for ladies to go about in the evening as in 
London. When you are ready to leave your 
hotel or lodgings, tell the servant at the door 
whether you want a hansom or a four-wheeler ; 
he or she will then blow a little whistle — twice 
for the former and once for the latter — and in a 
moment they will seem to spring up from the 
ground like boys at an accident. Sometimes 
two or three of them converge toward the 
sound, and the shrill blast is one of the most 
characteristic of modern London street noises. 

(There is only one time in the week when 
this does not hold good, and that is on Sunday 
morning between nine o'clock and noon, when 
you may whistle in vain, and if you are going 
out of town it is well to order one from the 
nearest stand the day before.) 



114 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

London cabbies are a very decent lot, but it 
is as well to ask before you leave your lodgings 
how much you should pay when you get to 
your friend's house, or to the theatre. Have 
your change ready, especially if you are going 
to the play, as there will be no time at the door 
for discussion ; and, when you come out, tell 
the " commissionaire" on duty at the theatre, 
who is usually a retired soldier, that you want 
a hansom, or if it is wet a four-wheeler, and he 
will produce one for you in a moment, for which 
you give him threepence. Of course it is im- 
possible to guarantee that nothing will ever 
happen to you, but, as a matter of fact, any 
annoyance is very rare, as each cab has its 
number plainly displayed, and the cabby knows 
that he would meet with but short shrift at the 
nearest police court if he annoyed you. You 
pay a little more after night than you do in 
the daytime, although it is not obligatory 
before midnight. 

If you chance to leave anything in a cab, 
you can almost always get it again by apply- 
ing at the police headquarters in Scotland 
Yard. 

Ladies can go without a gentleman to any 
respectable theatre in London, as at home, but 



ENGLAND 115 

if you sit in the stalls, wliicli correspond to 
the orchestra with us, you must be in evening 
dress, which means anything from a ball gown 
to a pretty blouse. The custom of dressing 
for dinner is universal among the upper classes 
in England, and the play often takes up merely 
a part of their evening, as they go on to some 
other entertainment later, therefore it is not 
uncommon to see a woman as much dressed as 
if she were in a box at the opera in America; 
but, on the other hand, you can go perfectly 
well as you would to a small dinner at home, 
but always with nothing on your head. There 
is a room provided in which you may leave 
your bonnet if you have worn one, but most 
English women go without. At the smartest 
theatres now, especially if their proprietors 
have been in America, the programmes are 
given free; but in some of the older ones you 
are expected to pay a trifle, usually threepence, 
and if you leave hats or cloaks you give the 
attendant sixpence for the party when you get 
them again. 

If you happen to be passing a theatre to 
which you want to go, it is usually not hard to 
get good seats at the box-office, but if it is out 
of the way you will save trouble by ordering 



116 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

them from one of the agents who sell them at 
a slight advance, as with us. Mitchell, 33 Old 
Bond Street, and Keith and Prowse, who have 
several offices, are among the best known of 
these agents, but there are many more. The 
price for stalls is usually ten shillings and six- 
pence, and for the dress circle six and sixpence, 
which is dearer than in America or France; 
stalls at the opera are a guinea, and if you 
have a chance to go on a " gala night " do not 
miss it, as the beauty and the jewels of the 
English women are unrivalled. 

As it rains intermittently in London, and the 
streets are consequently often covered with a 
thin coating of sticky mud, the crossing sweeper 
is a regular institution. Some of these men 
occupy the same posts for many years, and are 
known to every resident of the neighbourhood, 
and it is usual to give them a penny or two 
every now and then as one passes, for they are 
not considered exactly as beggars, and their 
services are very useful if one wishes to keep 
one's shoes neat. 

It is not necessary to give details regarding 
the English post-office, as the officials are ex- 
tremely polite and will tell you anything you 
want to know. The parcel post is very con- 



ENGLAND 117 

venient, and you can send almost anything 
anywhere, provided it is not more than three 
feet six inches long, and does not weigh more 
than eleven pounds. This service takes the 
place of our express companies. 

With regard to shopping, there are half a 
dozen great establishments, one as good as the 
other, where you can get almost anything that 
a woman is likely to want in the way of clothes; 
and English hosiery, although more expensive 
than that made on the Continent, certainly 
wears longer. All these large shops have 
" summer sales " in July, and it is worth while 
to take advantage of these if you do not mind a 
crowd. They are not bargain sales for pur- 
poses of advertisement, but part of the regular 
routine of the year, and stuffs of all kinds may 
often be bought for not more than half their 
actual value. Marshall and Snelgrove's at one 
end of New Bond Street, Lewis and Allenby's, 
Swan and Edgar's, and Howell and James's, in 
Regent Street, and Peter Robinson's, in Oxford 
Street, are among the best known of these large 
shops. Jay's, in Regent Street, is the great 
" mourning warehouse," and not far off, in the 
same street, is Liberty's, its windows shining 
like rainbows with silks and gauze. 



118 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

The shops in New Bond Street are said to be 
more expensive than any others ; next comes 
Regent, and then Oxford Street, which is natu- 
ral enough, as New Bond Street is the fashion- 
able shopping centre of the West End. Prices 
fall with shop rents, as one goes further away 
from it in any direction, and if you want to 
save your pennies you must keep your eyes 
open and compare the price tickets in one win- 
dow with those in another. Do not be be- 
guiled, however, into going into small shops, 
unless you know of them from English friends, 
because the goods are usually more expensive 
than those in the large ones ; this only applies, 
of course, to what is known as "haberdashery," 
Some years ago a number of people who were 
dissatisfied with the high prices charged by 
retail dealers, formed a joint stock association 
to supply goods to its members at moderate 
prices, for ready money payments, and the plan 
was such a success that there are now more 
than thirty of these associations in London, the 
largest being the Army and Navy Cooperative 
Stores, 105 Victoria Street, Westminster, the 
origin of which is shown by its name. Each 
member has a number which is changed each 
year, and has the privilege of lending the use 



ENGLAND 119 

of this number to his or her friends. By this 
means the sales of the association are increased, 
and as cash must be paid for everything it 
runs no risk of loss, so you are not putting 
yourself under too great an obligation if you 
ask any English person of your acquaintance 
who is a member, if you may use his or her 
number. 

You will probably have noticed the great 
number of dogs which follow their masters and 
mistresses everywhere in London ; they are not 
allowed in the " stores " where they would be a 
nuisance on account of the crowd, and a special 
commissionnaire is always on duty at the door 
to take charge of them while their owners are 
inside. If you are fond of animals you will 
find the little group which is always there an 
interesting sight ; there is the anxious dog, who 
is not sure he will ever see his divinity again ; 
the vain one, who is delighted to be admired by 
people going in and out; and the philosopher, 
who has been there often before and knows it 
is all in the day's work. 

The establishment is like one of our depart- 
ment stores, but larger, I think, than any of 
them. 

What you do is this : When you have found 



120 ETJBOPEAN TRAVEL FOK WOMEN 

your way to the corner of the great building in 
which is whatever you have come to buy, 
whether it be stationery, trunks, biscuits, or 
medicine, you choose what suits you, and are 
then taken to a cashier's desk, where you give 
your friend's number, name, and address, as she 
is supposed to be the buyer. You pay for your 
purchase, and if possible take it home with you ; 
if it is too big to carry you give your own name 
and address, after that of your friend, and it 
will be sent home to you, a small charge being 
made for delivery. The whole system is ab- 
solutely on a cash basis, which accounts for the 
large dividends paid by these companies to their 
stockholders. If you are not able to have the 
use of a number at the Army and Navy Stores, 
by applying to the secretary of the Civil Service 
Cooperative Society, 28 Haymarket, and stating 
that you are an American, a complimentary 
season ticket and number for that one will be 
given you without charge. 

It is very convenient to be able to buy so 
many different sorts of things under one roof, 
but in fairness to the retail shops, of which the 
"stores" are formidable rivals, I should say that 
I have not found prices at the latter noticeably 
lower for an equally high class of goods, nor 



ENGLAND 121 

can you as a rule get anything particularly fine 
of its kind. 

There are also stores throughout London 
which are conducted on private capital, like 
our own, where you may buy without any for- 
mality or restriction ; among these Whiteley's 
and Har rod's are very well known, and there 
you will find almost any imaginable thing, from 
marketing to diamond ornaments. 

English women live so much in the country 
that everything adapted for out-of-door exer- 
cise, such as dogskin gloves, waterproof capes, 
and all bicycle supplies, can be got better in 
London than in Paris. 

If you stay for a fortnight in a quiet English 
hotel or lodgings, it will be fair to give the 
waiter ten shillings and the chambermaid seven 
and sixpence ; the boy who has opened the 
door and run errands, three shillings, and half- 
a-crown to the " boots," who corresponds to the 
porter on the Continent. No rule can be ab- 
solute. A certain amount is expected, and if 
you give more trouble than the usual traveller 
to any particular servant you must recognize it 
accordingly. For instance, if, during your stay, 
the boy whose business it is to open the front 
door has been perpetually running up and down 



122 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

stairs with parcels, notes, cards, etc., he will 
deserve more than if he has not been so active ; 
if you were ill in your room, and the chamber- 
maid had to wait on you, she, on the other hand, 
ought to have more than if you have been out 
all day. One difference between England and 
the Continent is that no man-servant ever comes 
into a lady's bedroom in an English hotel or 
lodgings. If you breakfast upstairs, the waiter 
carries the tray to your door, and the chamber- 
maid takes it from him there and brings it in. 

These are about the tips which would be 
expected if you should make a visit at a pri- 
vate house where only maid-servants are kept: — 

From Saturday till Monday 

Parlour maid .... Half-a-crown 

Housemaid Two shillings 

Boy Two shillings 

You only tip the upper housemaid, unless the 

under housemaid has waited on or packed for 

you — in that case you give her two shillings 

also. 

For a Week 

Parlour maid .... Five shillings 

Housemaid , . . . . Five shillings 

Boy Two shillings 

Coachman Half-a-crown 



ENGLAND 123 

If he has fetched you from the station, or 
driven you without his mistress — if he has had 
no trouble on your account, you need not tip 
him. 

In houses where men-servants are kept : — 

From Saturday till Monday 

Butler Half-a-crown 

Housemaid Half-a-crown 

For a Week 

Butler Five shillings 

Housemaid Five shillings 

Coachman (if he has done anything for you) Five shillings 

This scale is enough either for one or two 
persons from Saturday till Monday, but if two 
people stay a week, the butler and upper house- 
maid should each have ten shillings. 

The fees for doctors and dentists vary with 
the quarters of the town in which they practise. 
If you wish to consult a distinguished special- 
ist, you should write him a note saying that 
you wish to call on him, which he will answer 
by one telling you his office hours, during 
which you go to his house, send in your card, 
and await your turn. Have an envelope ready 
in which are two sovereigns and two shillings, 
if it is your first visit, as the usual fee is two 



124 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN- 

guineas for the first consultation and one for 
each visit after that. When you have finished 
your consultation, put the envelope quietly 
down on the table and go away. If you have 
to go back again, the process is repeated with 
one guinea ; but if the physician attends you at 
your lodgings or hotel, he sends his bill when 
you are better, as he would at home. You can 
perfectly well ask a dentist what his charges 
are before being treated. 

A word about things which it is well not to 
do. Do not try to walk anywhere in the 
streets of London at night, unless it should be 
in some absolutely quiet square. In the neigh- 
bourhood of the theatres, it is impossible for 
ladies if they are alone, and unpleasant if they 
are with gentlemen. Leicester Square and the 
adjoining streets have a large foreign popula- 
tion, and it is not usual for young girls to go 
there much, or, if they do, it should be in the 
mornings. The same applies to the Strand, 
which, in the late afternoon, has a decidedly 
mixed class of passengers. Between Burling- 
ton Street and Piccadilly there is a short pas- 
sage known as the Burlington Arcade, which 
is filled with little shops where all sorts of lux- 
uries are sold. This is a convenient short cut 



ENGLAND 126 

between the two streets and is always crowded ; 
but it is better for young girls, especially if they 
are striking looking, to do their shopping there 
in the morning, as in the late afternoon women 
often walk there for whom they would not care 
to be mistaken. 

If I were asked by any one who had very 
little time to spend, how she could best get an 
impression of England, I should advise her to 
go first to London, and form an idea of its 
vastness by going about on omnibuses ; to 
visit Westminster Abbey, which is an epitome 
of English history in stone ; to go to Windsor, 
in order to see one of the best of the great 
English parks; and to run down, if only for a 
day, to Oxford or Cambridge. 

If you have more time to spend in either of 
them, during the terms of the Universities, it is 
interesting to catch a glimpse of the under- 
graduate life, which, of course, is all you can 
do ; but during the long vacation you are freer 
to go over the colleges and gardens at your 
leisure, and you may also find very comfortable 
accomodations in what are known (at Oxford 
at least) as licensed lodging-houses, which are 
those in which the students are allowed by the 
authorities to live when they have not rooms 



126 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

in the colleges themselves. The arrangement 
seems to be that when the students are not 
there in the summer the landlady is allowed 
to rent their rooms, which are often well fur- 
nished and very homelike. The board in them 
is about eight or ten shillings a day for each 
person, which includes all meals. 

I have made a list of a few books about 
England, some of which you may like to read, 
but it is not possible within the narrow limits 
of these pages even to indicate what you may 
see if you have time and inclination. If you 
love the old country, — which you will find oiit 
after you have been there a few days, — in 
every corner there will be something to attract 
you, and you will feel that nowhere else do sea 
and sky "so inclose Infinite riches in a little 
room." 

SOME BOOKS ABOUT GREAT BRITAIN 

A star (*) means that a book is of portable size, and useful 
for local reference. 

T. means that it is published in the Tauchnitz edition. 

*A Trip to England, Goldwin Smith. Macmillan. 
Shakespeare's England, W. Winter. Macmillan. 
Gray Days and Gold, W. Winter. Macmillan. 
*Walks in London, A. J. C. Hare. Macmillan. 
Literary Landmarks of London, L. Hutton. Harper. 
Domestic Architecture in England (4 vols.), T.H. Turner. 
Parker. 



ENGLAND 127 

*A Handbook to the English Cathedrals, M. G. Van 
Rensselaer. Scribner. 

Bell's Cathedral Series (monographs by different authors). 
Macmillan. 

*Cathedral Churches of England and Wales, W. J. Loftie. 
Stanford. 

London City Churches, A. E. Daniell. Archibald Con- 
stable. 

Memorials of Westminster Abbey, Dean Stanley. Mac- 
millan. 

♦Deanery Guide to Westminster Abbey. Pall Mall 
Gazette. 

♦Handbook to the National Gallery, E. T. Cook. Mac- 
millan. 

♦South Kensington Museum Art Handbooks (monographs 
on the arts and art industries). Chapman Hall. 

London, W. Besant. Harper. 

Historical Memorials of Canterbury, Dean Stanley. Ran- 
dolph. 

Portraits of Places (partly in England). Henry James. T. 

Historic Towns Series. Longmans. 

Great Public Schools Series. Arnold. 

The Inns of Court and Chancery, W. J. Loftie. 
Macmillan. 

Memorable London Houses, W. Harrison. Scribner. 

The Story of Ireland, E. Lawless. Putnam. 

The Story of Scotland, J. Mackintosh. Putnam. 

Litei-ary Landmarks of Edinburgh, L. Hutton. Harper. 

Royal Edinburgh, Mrs. Oliphant. Macmillan. 

A FEW NOVELS 

Eleventh Century 

Harold Bulwer Lytton. T. 

Hereward the Wake Charles Kingsley. T. 



128 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

Twelfth Century 

Ivanhoe Walter Scott. T. 

Court Life under the Plantagenets . . Hubert Hall. 

Thirteenth Century 
Brakespeare G. A. Lawrence. 

Fourteenth Century 

The White Company A. Conan Doyle. T. 

Fifteenth Century 

Last of the Barons Bulwer Lytton. T. 

Chantry Priest of Barnet A. J. Church. 

The Black Arrow R. L. Stevenson. T. 

Sixteenth Century 

The Abbot (Scotland) Walter Scott. T. 

The Household of Sir Thomas More . Anne Manning. 

Kenilworth (Warwickshire) .... Walter Scott. T. 

Westward Ho ! (Devonshire) . . Charles Kingsley. T. 

Seventeenth Century 

Lorna Doone (Devonshire) . . . B. D. Blackmore. T. 

Holmby House (Northamptonshire) Whyte Melville, T. 

Peveril of the Peak (Derbyshire) . . Walter Scott. T. 

Woodstock (Oxfordshire) .... Walter Scott. T. 

The Draytons and the Davenants Elizabeth Charles. T. 

Eighteenth Century 

Heart of Mid-Lothian (Edinburgh) . Walter Scott. T. 

Esmond W. M. Thackeray. T. 

Vicar of Wakefield Oliver Goldsmith. T. 

Nineteenth Century 

Three Feathers (Cornwall) . . . William Black. T. 

A Princess of Thule (The Hebrides) William Black. T. 

The Deemster (Isle of Man) .... Hall Caine. T. 

Cranford (Knutsford) Mrs. Gaskell. T. 

Irish Idylls Jaue Barlow. 



FRANCE 

« 

French money is puzzling in a different way 
from the English. It is easier for us, in that it 
is decimal, but the people obstinately continue 
to speak of it as if it were not. For instance, 
five centimes make one sou, and a hundred 
centimes or twenty sous one franc, but the 
average French person counts by nothing but 
the sous. The silver piece of fifty centimes is, 
of course, half a franc, but in nine cases out of 
ten he will call it "ten sous," or say twenty 
sous instead of a franc. 

The French sou corresponds about to the 
American cent, and two of them to the English 
penny. The two-sous piece is considerably larger 
than the single one, and there are no other cop- 
per coins ; the smallest silver coin is for fifty 
centimes, corresponding to our ten-cent piece. 
Then come the franc and two-franc pieces, and 
there is also the five-franc piece, which is about 
the size of our silver dollar and is commonly 



130 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

spoken of as a " piece de cent sous." The small- 
est gold piece is for ten francs, and tlie piece of 
twenty francs is commonly known as a " louis " 
or sometimes as a "napoleon," although the 
head of the Republic has adorned it for the 
last thirty years. 

Here is a table of these values: — 

French. American. 

One sou = One cent. 

Fifty centimes ) ^ 

, T . \ = Ten cents, 

(ten sous) J 

One franc = Twenty cents. 

Five francs ) ^ , „ 

, , , , . V = One dollar. 
(a hundred sous) J 

Ten francs = Two dollars. 

Twenty francs 1 ^ , ,, 

, , . - > = Four dollars, 
(a louis) J 

The French and English customs authorities 
have under consideration an arrangement by 
which branches of the French custom-house are 
to be established at Charing Cross and Victoria 
stations, and luggage examined and passed by 
a French official. This would be most conven- 
ient, and you might inquire whether it has 
been done. 

You may buy your ticket through by what- 
ever line you choose from London to Paris, and 
it may be third or second class by rail, and first 



FBANCE 131 

class on the Channel steamer, which last is 
advisable, as the second-class quarters are not 
good. Your luggage may also be registered 
through from London to Paris. 

If you go by Dover and Calais, which is 
the shorter crossing, there is always time for 
breakfast, or rather luncheon, at the latter 
place, where the railway buffet is famous for 
good things to eat. ^ 

While you are still on the boat, as you are 
nearing the coast of France, a custom-house offi- 
cial comes round politely asking for your keys, 
and your hand luggage is examined then and 
the larger pieces at Amiens. 

The radical dissimilarity between English and 
French people makes itself felt the moment you 
touch French soil, and if you have never been 
out of the sound of your own language, the first 
few moments are rather bewildering. Although 
stolid compared to Italian porters, the French 
ones seem exceedingly mercurial after the Eng- 
lish, and, unless you are careful, three or four 
of them will get hold of your hand luggage, and 
each will of course expect a tip. 

From the moment you set foot on shore re- 
member that you have come to a country where 
the little amenities of life make much more 



132 EUEOPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

difference than in the one you have just left, 
or than they do at home. 

A lady will be courteous to every one out of 
self-respect, but effusiveness of manner is not 
thought in England to be an attraction, and by 
some classes of people, as I have hinted before, 
it may be misunderstood. In France and Italy, 
on the other hand, and to some extent in Ger- 
man^(although there the Teutonic reserve 
comes in again), the more gracious and polite 
you are to every one the more you will have 
done for you. You will naturally notice the 
general use of " monsieur " and " madame " 
among people of every station in life. 

In England this marks a distinct difference 
in rank ; ladies and gentlemen only say "sir" 
and "ma'am" to persons of the blood royal. 
Once across the Channel, however, you can 
scarcely be too generous with this trifling com- 
pliment ; and its frequent omission by the Eng- 
lish, which is natural enough, gives rise to one 
of the grudges which the French have against 
them. As a general rule, any woman is safe 
in addressing another woman, whether duchess 
or apple-seller, as " madame," and any man may 
be called " monsieur " unless he is a waiter, or 
a porter, when the proper word, while he is at 



FRANCE 133 

his work, is " gargon," or " boy." The young 
girl who brings home your bonnet is "made- 
moiselle," and so far as your personal comfort 
and convenience are concerned you had better 
be rude to a friend than forget to say " Bon- 
jour, monsieur," or "madame," to the portier or 
concierge and his wife as you go in or out of 
your hotel or apartment, as if you do thev will 
forget to send up the notes or parcels of a Jp^er 
with so little manners. The expression " s'il 
vous plait," which is the equivalent of our 
"please," is not so much used as in Eng- 
lish ; " voulez-vous bien," which is the equiva- 
lent of our " will you kindly," is a more com- 
mon form, or you may simply give your order 
in so many words, but always in a pleasant 
tone. 

But it is time to be starting for Paris ; the 
" conducteur " has cried out " En voiture, mes- 
sieurs!" in a cheery way which his British 
brother would consider very undignified. 

One great difference between English and 
Continental railways is that in England men 
are not supposed to smoke except in certain car- 
riages, while in France it is allowed in all unless 
the fellow-passengers object. There are also, 
on the Continent, railway carriages set apart 



134 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

for ''dames seules" or "signore sole" (ladies 
only), into which gentlemen are not admitted 
at all, and you may always ask the porter who 
has charge of your hand luggage to find you 
such a carriage. If your party can manage to 
be alone in one it is very convenient; but 
French trains are much more crowded than 
Engy|h ones, and you run the chance of being 
shuPPp with two or three stout old ladies who 
will take up a great deal of room, and are 
sure to object vehemently to any fresh air. 
The express trains from Calais or Boulogne 
to Paris are nearly always especially full, and 
your party will be fortunate if you all find 
seats together. 

The rule for one terminal station is the same 
for all. As the train slackens its speed, open 
your window, put your head out, and beckon 
for a porter. There is no distinct name for him 
in France as there is in other countries, and a 
sign is usually enough, but if you must call 
him anything, " gargon " will do, as I have 
said. 

As a general rule, never go anywhere with- 
out having written or telegraphed ahead for 
rooms to whichever hotel you mean to go. By 
so doing you insure an omnibus being sent to 



FEANCE 135 

the station to meet you, and the man who comes 
with it will attend to your luggage. 

The French custom-houses are more fussy 
than those in England. There seems to be a 
small duty on a great many things, but after 
all the chief object of their search is spirits or 
tobacco, and a lady is not likely to have much 
annoyance. * 

If no omnibus meets you, and you drive off 
from the station in a cab, with your luggage 
on top of it, or beside the driver, which is what 
people generally do, before long, you may very 
likely see a man trotting alongside and try- 
ing to keep up with your vehicle. If he is 
evidently following you, it means that he is 
a poor wretch dependent upon odd jobs for 
a living, and he is taking a long run on the 
chance that when you get to your destination 
there may be no one to carry up your trunk, 
and you will therefore employ him. Unless 
this is likely to be the case, it is cruel to let him 
have his exertion for nothing, and you had bet- 
ter put your head out of the window and shake 
it, and also move the uplifted forefinger of your 
right hand to and fro. That is the universal 
sign of negation on the Continent, and is under- 
stood by everybody, especially by the confrater- 



136 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

nity of beggars. If they pester you, and follow 
you about, and decline to take " No " for an 
answer, only waggle your finger at them long 
enough, and they will give it up and go away. 

The drawback of sending word beforehand to 
an hotel is apt to be that the proprietor or man- 
ager takes the chance of your being rich, and 
therefore reserves for you rooms which cost 
more than you wish to pay ; but you are not 
obliged to take them, and may ask to see those 
which are less expensive. The prices of hotels 
in Paris vary greatly according to their locality 
and the class of people who go to them. In the 
neighbourhood of the Place Vendome there is 
every sort of cosmopolitan luxury and a corre- 
spondingly exalted scale of charges ; but even if 
you can afford to go there it is a pity to do so 
if you want to see anything of French people, 
for at some seasons of the year one actually 
hears as much English as French spoken in the 
streets. 

There are, of course, as in London, many 
small, quiet hotels where one may be perfectly 
comfortable, but which are not so splendid. 

When you drive up to the door, you will 
be received by the manager, who will show 
you your rooms. The manager of any hotel fre- 



FRANCE 137 

quented by travellers always speaks English, and 
so does the " portier," a magnificent being who 
must not be confused with the porter. After 
your first arrival, you may not see the manager 
again until you go, but the " portier," who has a 
little den by the front door, is your best friend; 
he changes your money, sells you postage- 
stamps, and has at his fingers' ends the railway 
time-tables. He is usually a most obliging 
person, and well entitled to his tip when you 
leave. I have said that he is an authority 
about time-tables, but this does not always 
apply to small cross-country lines. He will tell 
you in a moment when the express trains for any 
part of Europe leave or arrive ; but if you want 
to take slow trains, in order to be able to stop 
over at small places, and are clever at puzzles, 
you will sometimes be able to work out a route 
after he has assured you that the thing cannot 
possibly be done, whereat you will feel a glow 
of triumph unless you are, like Marjorie 
Fleming's mother-turkey, "more than usual 
calm." 

In most of the hotels on the Continent it is 
possible, if you stay more than a few days, 
to make an arrangement which corresponds 
really to boarding — that is, you go " en 



138 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

pension," and if you are to be two or three 
weeks in a place it has great advantages, for 
you know exactly what you are spending. 
Suppose that you have been given the address 
of one of the small hotels of which I speak ; 
when you get there look at the rooms, and if 
they suit you say to the proprietor or manager 
that you wish to stay for about such a length 
of time, and then settle with him the amount 
per day which you shall pay. This includes 
your coffee, rolls, and butter in your room 
in the morning, your second breakfast or " de- 
jeuner," which may be taken in the general 
dining room or in your "salon" if you have 
one, and the evening dinner. If you are served 
in your own rooms, it is extra, and the wine 
or mineral water at meals, and an egg or 
omelet with your coffee, or baths, or a lamp, 
are extra also, and in winter firewood, an im- 
portant item. You are not bound to stay if 
you are not comfortable, and if you have many 
friends with whom you expect to dine, living 
"en pension" is not a saving, as you must 
pay for your meals whether you are there or 
not, but for women travelling quietly it is an 
excellent plan. 

Hotels which are willing to take lodgers on 



FRAKCE 139 

these terms must not be confused v/ith the 
''pensions," which are simply our boarding- 
houses. Of these there are any number in 
Paris, and they vary at least as much as their 
fellows at home. You cannot be too careful 
about going to one of them unless you know all 
about it from a friend whom you can trust, but 
many are entirely unobjectionable, and it is in 
them that the majority of the women live who 
come abroad for serious study of any kind, 
whether in Paris, or in other European cities. 
As to the relative expenses of different parts 
of Paris, I have already spoken of the Place 
Vendome and the Rue de la Paix ; then there 
is the " American Quarter," near the Arc de 
I'Etoile, in which prices are also high, although 
there are hotels and pensions in quiet side 
streets where one may be comfortable without 
paying exorbitantly. This neighbourhood has 
the advantage of being on higher ground than 
most of the older districts, and as it is of recent 
growth, the sanitary arrangements are better, 
for which reasons I advise you to try it if you 
have a delicate person in your party, or a young 
girl. Many people like the "rive gauche," or 
left bank of the Seine, and in some of the hotels 
there one may be very comfortable at a moder- 



140 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

ate price, but it is rather out of the way, and 
the old paved streets are very iiois}^ By the 
way, when you are looking for rooms in a Euro- 
pean hotel, notice whether it is on the side of a 
hill, and if so, ask whether it is on an omnibus 
route ; those heavy vehicles have strong brakes, 
which are used freely on any declivity, and the 
consequent strident screech is exceedingly dis- 
agreeable. 

With regard to prices, these are variable, as 
in London ; on general principles you will pay 
from eight to fifteen francs a day at a quiet 
hotel, the difference depending somewhat on 
the position of your room, and the length of 
your stay; while board and lodging at a pension 
are anywhere from a liundred and fifty to four 
hundred francs a month. If you have no 
friends in Paris, it would not be a bad plan to 
stop over night at one of the large hotels which 
are near each railway station, as the faithful 
Baedeker will tell you, and go next morning to 
the American Girls' Club at 4 Rue Chevreuse, 
in the famous Latin Quarter, where you will 
surely be told what you had better do. This 
club was started for the use of American stu- 
dents, and there is a restaurant where any 
woman can go, the prices being kept as low as 



FRANCE 141 

possible. Tea is served in the afternoons, and 
every American woman is welcomed, while in 
summer, when there are but few students, rooms 
are rented very cheap. 

Nothing which may be said about Parisian 
prices holds good in an exhibition year, when 
you may consider yourself exceptionally lucky 
if you only have to pay twice as much as in 
ordinary times. Paris, during one of these 
shows, bears the same relation to her usual self 
that a private household does when it is turned 
upside down by some entertainment, like a big 
wedding, which strains its resources to the ut- 
most. There are always a great many interest- 
ing things to see, and supposing you have the 
chance to go you will be foolish not to take it ; 
but if you have never been in Paris before do 
not make up your mind about her offhand. 
The cabbies are all cross, and the horses are all 
tired ; the theatres are so crowded that you can 
hardly get a seat ; and if you go to a restaurant 
you must Avait an interminable time for a bad 
dinner. This is the reverse of a shining shield. 
Every exhibition has a special and ephemeral 
literature of its own, quite out of the scope of 
ordinary guide-books, and one of the best vol- 
umes recently issued seems to be the " Anglo- 



142 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

American Guide," published by Heinemann in 
London, Hachette in Paris, and Stokes in New 
York. 

One of the first things to learn on the Con- 
tinent is that its ideas differ widely from those 
of Great Britain and America as to what are 
known as " the rights of the individual," and 
this is especially the case in France. In Eng- 
land, or Avith us, if there is an accident in the 
street, you are supposed to be in the right until 
it is proved that 3'ou are in the wrong ; but the 
exact contrary holds in France and other Con- 
tinental countries. If you are nearly run over 
in Paris, the man who has done it, instead of 
apologizing, will begin to scold you, and if you 
apply to a policeman he will tell you that you 
are very lucky not to be worse off and that it 
was all your own fault. This is somewhat 
bewildering at first, but you must get used to it, 
and remember that it is your place to dodge the 
cabs and carriages in the streets, not theirs to 
look out for you. 

If you leave anything in a cab, your only 
redress is to go after it to the Prefecture of 
Police, below the cathedral of Notre Dame ; 
but unless the object is very valuable it is 
scarcely worth while to take so much trouble. 



PEANCE 143 

Your chance of recovering it is slight, even if 
yoa have the number of the cab, as the man 
may assert that he never saw what you have 
come to claim, and the authorities seem always 
to take his part. 

Cabs in Paris are either victorias or ram- 
shackle coupes, and the cabbies not nearly 
so civil as those in London. There are plenty 
of stands, but, if you are wise, you will not 
take a cab from one of them, because after 
you have started, you may find the horse 
lame or tired out. The better way is to 
walk along quietly after you leave your hotel, 
watching, without seeming to do so, the various 
cabs creeping along in search of a fare; then, 
when you see one with a decent horse and man, 
hold up your finger, and he will immediately 
come. If you give the cabby an address only 
as you get in, when you get to your destina- 
tion you must pay him and let him go. That 
is a "course," and for it he is entitled to a 
franc and a half, and also a "pourboire" — 
this last as obligatory as the fare. For a 
short " Course " French people usually give 
three sous, but foreigners, especially Ameri- 
cans, are always expected to give more. I 
usually give five sous "pourboire" for an 



144 EUEOPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

ordinarily long " course." The aggregate 
amount in pennies between a small " pourboire " 
and a large one is not very great, and it is 
worth something to have one's cabby pleasant. 
If you wish to keep the cab for several errands, 
you must say " a I'heure " when you engage 
him, and if it is near the time when he ought 
to change his horse, he has the right to refuse 
to take you. The fare by the hour is two 
francs, and the men do not drive so fast as by 
the "course," although they will usually do 
so if you promise them a good "pourboire." 
During an exhibition they expect two francs 
for a course, and three by the hour. 

Each man is bound to show his tariff if 
requested to do so, and on it is the number of 
his cab. If you want to go into one of the 
large shops, you should ask your cabby for his 
number, which he will give you on a small 
piece of paper, and when you come out, if you 
give that paper to one of the "commission- 
naires," who are always at the doors of the 
shops, he will find your cab for you as boys 
do after the theatre at home. For this you 
give him two sous. 

Cabbies have been so often swindled by fares 
going in at one door and out at another of 



FRANCE 146 

the great shops which have many exits, that 
they have naturally become suspicious, and it 
is customary to leave a parasol, book, or some 
other little thing on the seat as you get out. 
You are secured against theft by the cabby's 
number which you hold, and he is sure that you 
will come back to him. 

I once saw an amusing sight outside the 
Magasins du Louvre. An elderly English 
woman of the most eminent respectability was 
holding tight to one end of her parasol, while 
her cabby, fiercely gesticulating, held equally 
tight to the other. Both were talking at the 
tops of their voices, and neither could under- 
stand a word the other said. The lady wanted 
to do some shopping and expected to find her 
cab when she came out, but was not familiar 
with the custom of leaving some article in it as 
a guarantee of her return, so the cabby was 
insisting upon her parasol as a deposit, while 
she was resisting what she thought was highway 
robbery. 

In Paris, unlike London, four-seated vehicles 
cost more than one holding only two passengers. 

The two largest cab companies are the 
"Urbaine" and the " Compagnie Generale,'' 
and the cabs of the Urbaine may always be 



146 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOE WOMEN 

easily distinguished, because the body of the 
vehicle is painted in yellow and black to 
imitate cane work; this company hires out 
many carriages by the week or month, which 
are not numbered, but all have the peculiar 
black and yellow painting. The cabs of the 
Compagnie Gdn^rale are dark green and black, 
with a little shield on the door marked "C. G." 

Remember, when you wish to take a cab in 
Paris after dark, or indeed at any time, that 
you can always tell to what quarter of the city 
the stable belongs by the colour of the glass 
in the lamps, and try as much as possible to 
take a man who lives in your quarter, because 
his horse will go better toward home. 

On any map or plan of Paris you may see 
where these different quarters are ; here are 
the principal ones with their colours : — 

Blue: The Bastille, La Villette. 

Red: Etoile (or Arc de Triomphe), Avenue de la 

Grande Arm^e, and Batignolles. 
Green: Vaugirard, and the left side of the Seine, the 

Latin Quarter, etc. 
Yellow: Montmartre and La Chapelle. 

As a general rule the cabs with the red or 
green lanterns will be those you want. 

If you can afford it, by far the pleasantest 



FRANCE 147 

way to arrange for a cab in the evening is to 
go to the office of the Urbaine Company near- 
est your hotel. There are many of these 
offices, and the portier will be able to direct 
you. Ask to see the manager, and tell him 
that you wish to have a cab whenever you 
want it, and to be able to feel sure that the 
horse is good and the man sober. You can 
let him know in the morning, and the man will 
appear at your door at the time you have 
named, and will be waiting for you at the 
theatre when you come out. This costs ten or 
twelve francs an evening, besides a tip of two 
francs — as much as a cab would at home ; but 
you are sure of a decent man, and in case a 
young girl has to go out to dinner by herself it 
is really the only satisfactory arrangement. 

Omnibuses in Paris have different rules from 
those in England. In order to secure a seat 
you go to a little station, or booth; there is 
one just opposite the Magasins du Louvre from 
which you can easily learn what they are all 
like. If you know that the omnibus which you 
want to take belongs to the line of which that 
is the office, you go in and ask for a ticket and 
are given a number. Then you wait until, in 
a few moments, an omnibus comes along and 



148 EUEOPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

deposits some people. The keeper of the office 
calls some numbers in the order in which he 
has given them out, and you listen for yours. 
If there are three vacant places only in the 
omnibus, the first three numbers called take 
them, and you may have to wait still longer. 
This at a very busy time of the day may happen 
two or three times, but at last you hear your 
number, and climb either in or outside, wher- 
ever you have taken your place. The fare 
inside is six sous to any part of the city, 
and outside, called the "imperiale," which is 
much pleasanter, it is three. The omnibus rolls 
away with the sign " complet " on the back if 
it is full ; if a person gets out, the little sign is 
taken down and it will stop if it is hailed, but 
the chance of a vacant place is slight and you 
may wait so long on the pavement that people 
usually go to the stations. At night a little 
red lamp takes the place of the board, and has 
the same meaning. (There is a venerable story 
of a man who lamented that he could never get 
to " Complet," although so many omnibuses 
went there, because none of them would stop 
for him.) A complicated system of "corre- 
spondances," or transfers, covers the whole city ; 
but if you mean to use the omnibuses except 



FRANCE 149 

as a delightful way of seeing Paris, you must 
really study their routes. 

Of late years there have been so many Amer- 
ican girls studying and living there that a 
young lady walking alone does not attract so 
much attention as formerly, but she must be 
even more careful than in London to dress 
quietly and behave with reserve and discretion. 
Do not look at men ; do not walk on the boule- 
vards in the late afternoon ; and especially do 
not loiter at that time under the arcade of the 
Rue di Rivoli, opposite the Louvre. There are 
quantities of little shops there, the windows of 
which are full of photographs of actresses and 
various conspicuous people, many of them in toi- 
lettes which recall that of the " Young Lady of 
Crete," and to the foreign mind it is absolutely 
incomprehensible that nice girls should stand 
gazing and admiring as too many of them do. 

Women who have no man with them can go to 
the theatres in the evening without any incon- 
venience. As these are scattered all over Paris, 
you may, to save trouble, procure seats through 
one of the many "Agences des Theatres," 
easily distinguishable by the posters outside 
them, where you pay a premium which varies 
with the attractiveness of the spectacle. 



150 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

Usually it is two francs a place above the 
theatre price, but for gala affairs it is often 
much higher. 

If you have time it is always better to get 
your tickets at the " bureau de location " of 
the theatre itself, and be sure to ask whether 
the play you want to see will be given on the 
evening for which you are buying them, as 
the bills of foreign theatres change often, and 
without warning. 

The most comfortable seats are the " stalles 
d'orchestre " or the " fauteuils de balcon," and 
at the principal theatres the price of these, at 
the box office, is from seven to nine francs, or 
about the same as at home. 

Tuesdays and Thursdays are subscription 
nights at the Theatre Frangais, and many peo- 
ple take their boxes or seats for the season, 
which makes it hard to get places for those 
evenings if there is a new play. Monday is 
the fashionable subscription night at the Opera. 

The Theatre Frangais will soon be rebuilt, 
and you should certainly go to it at least once, 
even if you do not understand French, as it 
is one of the characteristic institutions of 
Paris. 

The question as to the theatres to which ladies 



FBANCB 151 

can or cannot go is a delicate one. The rule 
between married and unmarried women is very 
sharply drawn in France. A married woman 
may go anywhere her husband chooses to take 
her, and read any book which he does not for- 
bid; but unmarried women do not as a rule 
read French novels nor go to most of the thea- 
tres, unless the piece is unobjectionable. 

A Frenchman who sees a young unmarried 
woman at the Palais Royal Theatre or with a 
certain kind of French novel in her hand, does 
not know what to think, and it is not his fault 
if he believes that she understands a great deal 
more than she does. 

The Theatre Frangais, as I have said, is a 
classic institution, and the Odeon almost as 
much so. At the Opera the lyric perform- 
ances are not nearly so good as we have now 
in America, but the ballets are far more beau- 
tiful. Coquelin and Sarah Bernhardt play at 
their theatres much the same pieces that they 
bring to America, and it often happens that 
some historical play is entirely inoffensive ; but 
one cannot be sure, and if you are in doubt you 
had better stay away. 

The Palais Royal is the home of broad farce 
of the Gallic variety, and although the pieces 



152 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

are occasionally amusing, they cannot be recom- 
mended to youth. 

The " star " system by which one theatre has 
twenty different companies as tenants during a 
season is unknown in Paris ; each has its own 
director and its permanent troupe. One piece 
may be perfectly harmless, the next terrible 
according to our standards ; and the only way 
to decide whether to go or not is to ask the 
advice of some friend who knows more than 
you do. 

At the Opera and the Theatre Fran9ais, 
women are only allowed in the orchestra stalls 
without hats, and not in the first three rows. 
In other theatres there are no restrictions. 

French theatre tickets are not like ours, 
being slips of paper with the number of one's 
seat written on them twice. When you go 
into the vestibule of the theatre you will see 
three men sitting like judges, in a sort of box 
or pen ; you give one of them your slips of 
paper, at which he glances, tears them in two, 
and hands you the other halves. In the cor- 
ridor outside your seats you find some old 
women with beribboned caps, who urge you to 
leave your cloaks with them, and you had 
better do it; for French theatres are usually 



FRANCE 153 

crowded and always hot. These women are 
called "ouvreuses," and they are as much a 
part of the machinery of the French theatre as 
the prompter. You may put two or three light 
wraps together, for which the " ouvreuse " will 
give you a number ; she then tells you where 
to find your seat, and you go in. 

French people are fond of going out into the 
" foyer " between the acts to walk up and down, 
talk, or drink raspberry vinegar and such-like 
mild refreshments ; the consequence is that they 
tramp over one's feet several times each evening. 
In the Theatre Frangais there was no aisle 
down the middle of the orchestra stalls, but a 
bar separating the even from the uneven num- 
bers, and if you could get seats against that bar, 
directly in the middle of the house, you had to 
climb over everybody to get in if you were 
late, but after that nobody passed you. Never 
wear a good skirt to a Paris theatre, except in 
a box, as the floors are always dirty. 

When the play is over, fifty centimes will be 
enough for your ouvreuse, or a franc if you are a 
large party. You will have to find a vehicle for 
yourself, there being no " commissionnaire " as 
at the English theatres, and your going home 
will probably not be so pleasant as in London. 



164 EUROPEAK TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

There are plenty of cabs, but the horses are 
often lame and tired, and the cabbies beat them 
unmercifully. You may have the good luck to 
find a horse which is not exhausted, and glad to 
be going toward home, or else you may, especially 
in an Exhibition year, be made to feel that you 
would much rather walk any distance than sit 
another minute in the cab. 

The postal arrangements in Paris are excel- 
lent, and their system of ''card telegrams" a 
great convenience. At any post-office station 
you may buy these little cards, which cost thirty 
centimes for an ordinary one, like a postal card, 
and fifty centimes for a small sheet of blue 
paper with a line gummed around the edges 
and a row of perforations like those which 
separate postage-stamps. You write as much 
as you choose on the inside of this little sheet 
of paper, which will hold thirty or forty words, 
then double it over, wet the gummed edges and 
stick them together, write the address, and drop 
it into a special slit reserved for these "cartes 
telegrammes" at the office, when it will be 
whisked away through a pneumatic tube at 
once, and delivered as quickly as a regular tele- 
gram. The person receiving it merely has to 
tear off the gummed edge which closes the 



FEANCB 165 

sheet; and the open cards go in the same quick 
way. If you wish to change an appointment 
with a dressmaker or send word that you want 
a cab, two hours is usually quite enough time 
to allow for one of these card telegrams to 
reach any part of Paris. The colloquial name 
for the closed ones is "petit bleu," from the 
shade of their paper. 

Ordinary telegrams within the limits of 
France cost one franc for the first twenty 
words, the address being included, and one 
sou for each word after that. The tariff for 
other countries varies. 

Although Paris is essentially a city of res- 
taurants and cafes, there are none to which 
it is pleasant for ladies to go by themselves, 
and you had better avoid them. There are 
several tea rooms in the English and American 
quarter where you can get very good afternoon 
tea and cakes, and if you want to lunch away 
from your own hotel, you may go to one of the 
many "Bouillons Duval." There the food is 
good and cheap, and you are waited on by 
young women ; while, although the company is 
not exciting, it is respectable. 

There are half a dozen huge shops in Paris to 
which most strangers drift naturally, and about 



156 EFROPBAlsr TRAVEL FOR "WOMEN 

the two best-known of them a hoary anecdote is 
told, to the effect that a young woman, who was 
asked when she went home what she had most 
admired in the Louvre, replied that on the 
whole she preferred the gloves there to those at 
the Bon Marche. 

The largest shops are like our department 
stores, or the cooperative stores in London, 
and are known by fancy titles instead of the 
names of their proprietors. Among the best 
of them are the "Magasins du Louvre," and 
the " Samaritaine," in the Rue de Rivoli; the 
" Bon Marche," and the " Petit St. Thomas," 
in the Rue du Bac, and the "Printemps," on 
the Boulevard Haussmann. 

When you go to shops let me warn you 
against a want of consideration which often 
comes from lack of thought. In all the large 
ones, a number of the employees, both men and 
women, speak English, but in many cases it is 
scarcely fluent. I have seen a woman go into the 
Bon Marche and say to one of the shop-girls, " Do 
you speak English? " to which the answer was 
"Yees, madame, a leedle." Then down came 
the long-pent-up torrent of the shopper's elo- 
quence, — she talked at a pace that would have 
staggered a stenographer, and the poor girl was 



FRANCE 167 

drowned in the flood. Up came the watch- 
ful section superintendent, who saw that the 
attendant did not really understand the lady, 
and although I could not hear what he said to the 
girl, I am afraid she may have lost her place in 
consequence. Therefore, when speaking Eng- 
lish to foreigners, "let your words be few and 
well chosen," and speak as you would to a little 
child, or even more slowly and distinctly. 

Wednesday is " bargain day " at the Magasins 
du Louvre, and Friday at the Bon Marche, and 
if you do not mind a tremendous crowd, espe- 
cially in the afternoon, you can often get things 
cheaper than on other days ; but otherwise I 
advise your choosing another time, and always 
go as early in the morning as you can. 

In your wanderings about, if you see a little 
thing which you like, can afford, and have 
room for, buy it at once, and do not think that 
you can get the same thing just as well later 
somewhere else. The chances are that you 
will never see anything like it again, and will 
be sorry during the rest of your journey that 
you did not take it at first. If you go into 
a large shop in Paris and take a fancy to a 
certain cape, or necktie, or petticoat, do not 
be deterred from getting it because there are 



158 EUKOPEAN TEAVEL FOR WOMEN 

many others exactly like it ; seen together, 
they may look rather common because of their 
number, but when your purchase is trans- 
ported home it will probably be the admiration 
of your friends and you will only wish you had 
more. 

If you buy new clothes before leaving Paris 
it is better to ask your dressmaker to recom- 
mend you a professional packer. He (for it is 
always a man) will save you a great deal of 
trouble, but he will also awe you by the amount 
of room which, according to him, every self- 
respecting frock requires. He stuffs the sleeves 
and bows with tissue paper ; he lays little rolls 
down every fold where a crease could possibly 
come; he puts countless tacks and pins to prevent 
the contents of the tray from shifting, and alto- 
gether spreads your purchases over what seems 
to you a great deal of space. For the ocean 
journey, although not for travelling, cheap 
trunks serve their purpose, and a very fair-sized 
one can be bought in Paris for thirty francs. If 
your packer is good, and your clothes not mal- 
treated at the custom-house, they should be 
as fresh when you unpack them in your own 
room as they were when they came from the 
dressmaker's. It is false economy to crowd 



FRANCE 159 

them yourself into boxes too small for them, 
for, even if you go directly home, it must be at 
least a fortnight between the time you pack 
them and take them out, and most of that has 
been spent on board ship, where the sea air 
seems to penetrate even into the most tightly 
closed boxes. 

If you reach Paris in winter, you will be 
wise to get yourself, as soon as possible, at 
any of the large shops, a pair of thick slip- 
pers with felt soles, as you have left carpets 
which cover the floor behind you in England, 
and will only find small rugs on the stone or 
tile or wooden floors. You should also buy a 
warm dressing-gown, especially if you are going 
to Italy, as the chilliness of part of the southern 
winter is sometimes penetrating. 

While you were in England the question of 
your washing was simple, as you made the list 
out in English, but now it will be a different 
matter. At any of the book shops which are 
meant especially for English and American 
tourists, such as Brentano's, 37 Avenue de 
r Opera; Neal's, 284 Rue de Rivoli; Galignani's, 
224 in the same street, or Gateau's, 8 Rue 
Castiglione, you will be able to get a polyglot 
washing list in English, French, German, and 



160 EUEOPEAN TRAVEL EOR WOMEN 

Italian. Then all you have to do is to write 
the number for yourself opposite the English 
name, and for the laundress opposite the foreign 
one. You keep the English list and pin the 
other on your clothes-bag. Try to have your 
things back in good season before you must 
leave an hotel, as laundresses sometimes take 
the chance of your not having time to count 
them, and in that way you may leave a trail of 
handkerchiefs, collars, and stockings behind you. 
If you mean to travel about after you leave 
Paris, and wish to see as much as you can, you 
must certainly count upon lunching often in 
the railway carriage, as it saves a great deal of 
time, and for this you will need a luncheon 
basket, because it is of the utmost importance 
that you should eat as regularly and as much 
as possible, unless you wish to tire yourself 
out. In the expensive shops on the boule- 
vards, and in the different establishments which 
sell conveniences for travellers, these baskets 
are elaborately fitted up, very heavy and very 
dear, but for a fraction of the price you can get 
one which will be more useful and comfortable. 
Go to the Bon Marche, and select a basket 
of ample but not unwieldy size, made of some 
sort of soft straw or reeds, which, although 



FRANCE 161 

stout, will not have sharp ends to tear your 
hands and clothes, and with a strap around 
it. Then go to the housekeeping department, 
and choose three or four (as many as you 
want) small enamelled plates, the same num- 
ber of knives and forks, an enamelled pot 
with a tight-fitting cover, for butter, and a 
drinking-glass in a straw case for each member 
of the party ; there should also be a small cork- 
screw. Be careful, by the way, to choose your 
basket long enough to carry a bottle of wine or 
mineral water comfortably. These things thus 
bought cost only a few francs, and your basket 
is not blocked up with a number of compart- 
ments holding things which you do not want. 
Buy also a dozen small napkins, and get at any 
apothecary's a new glass pot with a screw top, 
such as are made for cold cream, to hold salt. 
A cake of chocolate, or whatever form of it 
you like best, should live in the luncheon bas- 
ket, or at least be somewhere easily accessible 
on journeys, as a biscuit and a bit of chocolate 
may often prevent your feeling faint or having 
a headache. Chocolate to drink at the first 
meal of the day, instead of tea or coffee, is 
attainable in almost every corner of Europe ; 
and if you miss a hearty breakfast you will 



162 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

find this much more sustaining than either of 
the other beverages. If you are dependent on 
milk, by the way, there are now in all the large 
towns private dairies from which it is sent out 
in sealed bottles, as with us, and if you tell 
your waiter that you want so much each day, 
it will be delivered regularly and put on your 
bill. It costs a little more than ordinary milk, 
as usual, but it is supposed to be safer. If you 
are rather run down from rapid travelling, or 
overtired from sight-seeing, a few days' rest, 
and as much milk diluted with an equal quan- 
tity of Vichy water as you can take, will 
probably bring you up as quickly as though 
you consulted a physician. 

In case, however, one of your party should 
seem likely to be ill, it is well to know that 
English nurses may be obtained at the follow- 
ing addresses: The Holland Nursing Insti- 
tution, 25 Rue d' Amsterdam; St. George's 
Nursing Association, 92 Rue de la Boche, and 
the Deaconesses' Home, 95 Rue de Reuilly. 
During the Exhibition of 1900, nurses from the 
Presbyterian Hospital, and from St. Luke's, in 
New York, will have an office at 102 Rue Vau- 
girard, and there will be many American nurses 
in Paris. 



FRANCE 163 

In almost every French town there are " char- 
cuterie " shops, where you can buy cooked meats 
of all kinds, and if, when you are out, you see 
a good cold roast chicken in a window, and are 
going on an expedition where you mean to use 
your luncheon basket, buy the chicken and 
bring it back in a discreet parcel. You will 
find it costs much less than if you order it 
from the hotel, and if you wish to take a bottle 
of wine, you can buy it cheaper in a grocer's 
shop. If you order rolls and butter to take 
with you, the hotel keeper will be quite 
contented. 

Whether you like it or not, it is wiser to 
drink mineral water while you are abroad, 
except in a few cities. There are said to be 
artesian wells in Paris which are quite safe, 
but in general the water there has a bad name, 
and you had better drink St. Galmier. Min- 
eral waters have their districts, like wines, and 
you will soon find out what those are by the 
prices on the hotel wine lists. When you find 
that the water that you have been drinking 
costs a little more than it did at the last place, 
and that the one next it on the list is rather 
cheaper, it means that you have crossed the 
boundary line into the second one's territory ; 



164 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

and you had better change, as one is as good as 
another, and all chiefly useful to protect you, 
or at least give you the illusion of protection, 
against microbes. 

When there are children with you or people 
who drink a great deal, if you are going to 
make any stay in a place you should order a 
gallon of distilled water from a chemist's, as 
that is quite as safe as if from a mineral spring, 
and much less expensive. 

You should never travel in France without 
a provision of copper sous. Many of the rail- 
way trains on the Continent now have toilet 
rooms attached to the carriages, but as a rule 
only on the expresses, and those at the stations 
are always taken care of by old women, the 
regulation tip from each person being two 
sous. 

If you get tired walking in Paris and sit 
down on an iron chair, in a few moments a 
polite old lady or an old man in a blouse will 
come and stand smiling before you, which 
means that he or she expects a couple of 
pennies for the use of the chair. The fixed 
benches in the parks are free, but as the mov- 
able chairs which are everywhere in Paris and 
which add greatly to one's comfort belong to 



FRANCE 165 

private individuals, or to companies, there is a 
charge for them. 

In France there seems to be no dividing line 
between the work of men and that of women. 
All the rough chamber work in hotels, for 
instance, is done by men ; they sweep the floors, 
empty dirty water, etc., while the chambermaid 
makes the bed and arranges the room. This 
custom at first seems strange to American and 
English people, but it is one of the customs of 
the country. In Italy it is not as general as in 
France, but everywhere out of England men do 
a great deal of the work which we only associate 
with women. In an ordinary year, when Paris 
is not hysterical over an exhibition, if you have 
stayed a fortnight in a quiet hotel, your tips 
would be about these : to the portier, ten francs, 
and the same to your waiter and your chamber- 
maid (or seven to her and three to her male 
assistant); five francs to the "garden d'etage," 
an upstairs waiter, who has brought your break- 
fast tray and answered your sitting-room bell; 
and three to the gargon who corresponds to 
"boots," and who takes your trunks up and 
down. 

The things worth seeing in Paris are so 
many, and of such different kinds, that I can- 



166 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

not even begin to tell you about them, but I 
may indicate one or two which are not dwelt 
upon in the guide-books. If you are there in 
spring or summer, it will amuse you to go up 
and down the Seine in the little river-boats 
known as " mouches " or '^ hirondelles," — flies 
and swallows. You may go to Suresnes or St. 
Cloud, lunch at one of the inns there, and come 
back whenever you please. These boats corre- 
spond to those which go to Greenwich, but I 
think you will be struck with the different way 
in which English and French people take their 
pleasure. 

In England, a man goes about with his sweet- 
heart, or his wife, if she has only one child to 
look after, but when more come she seems to 
stay at home with them, and her fiusband joins 
other men. In France, on the other hand, the 
more the merrier is the feeling about family 
parties ; in any of the suburbs of Paris on a 
holiday, or in any corner of the Bois de Bou- 
logne, you will find numbers of picnics going 
on, with parents, children, and grandparents 
perfectly happy in being together. It makes 
an American rather ashamed to see how neat 
such parties are after they have finished feast- 
ing ; every scrap of paper, egg-shell, or bit of 



FRANCE 167 

bread is collected, and no rubbish of any sort 
left to disfigure the grass. 

There is not much left now of old Paris, but 
in the heart of the city, on the little island where 
the Cathedral of Notre Dame stands, there are 
still some curious streets, with names even 
older, probably, than the present buildings. 
In the cathedral itself, notice the noble sweep 
of the simple columns behind the choir — you 
will not see anything else just like it in all 
cathedral architecture. If you are in Paris at 
the end of Lent, try to hear the '' Chanteurs de 
Saint Gervais," which is an old church on the 
left side of the Seine. The " Chanteurs " are 
musical enthusiasts, who have revived the old 
plain-song; they have no organ accompani- 
ment, only permitting the voice and sometimes 
the violin. They give old church music, some 
of it mediaeval, and some by Palestrina, Pergo- 
lese, and others, but nothing modern. It is 
simple enough to hear it, — all you need do is 
to find your way to the Church of Saint Ger- 
vais et Saint Protais (to give its full name), in 
the Rue Frangois-Miron, pay a trifle for a chair, 
and perhaps give something for the repairs of 
the church and expenses of the society, if a 
collection is taken up. On Holy Thursday, 



168 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

Good Friday, and Easter Sunday, the music 
is especially fine and impressive. 

If you travel in France you must learn how 
to register your luggage, which is much more 
troublesome to do on the Continent than in 
England. The process, which is the same in 
Germany and Italy, is as follows : As soon as 
you get to a railway station, a porter takes the 
luggage from the cab to the checking-office, 
for which he expects four sous a trunk, and 
it is placed on a very long wooden counter, in 
a group together, and pushed up in its turn to 
the scales, which are by the luggage agent's win- 
dow. In France you are allowed thirty kilos, 
or about sixty pounds ; in Germany twenty-five 
kilos, but in Italy every pound of luggage must 
be paid for. When your turn comes, state in 
a loud clear voice where you are going, and 
deliver up your railway tickets, which will 
be returned to you stamped, with a separate 
receipt on a printed form, bearing a printed 
number, and, in writing, the number of pieces, 
their destination, and the price of transporta- 
tion. The same printed number is pasted on 
each of your pieces, and you should therefore 
copy it as soon as possible into your pocket- 
book, as the number alone, accompanying your 



FRANCE 169 

keys, which of course will open your own boxes, 
will identify the luggage as yours on arrival, 
in case you should lose the printed receipt, 
which is called " billet de bagage " in French, 
" gepackschein " in German, and " scontrino '' 
in Italian. This may save enormous trouble. 
After your luggage is once registered to any 
place within the boundaries of the country, 
which it should be at least ten minutes before 
the train starts, you need not concern yourself 
about it though you may have to change trains 
several times. 

If you know how much your luggage weighs, 
as you will be able to do by consulting the first 
receipt you get, on which the weight in kilo- 
grammes is marked, you will be able to calcu- 
late very closely how much it will cost on any 
journey. 

If you possibly can, go to the valley of the 
Loire in spring or early summer, and don't 
forget to take Mr. James's "Little Tour in 
France " with you. If you have good weather 
you can see the group of chateaux for which it 
is famous within a week or ten days, supposing 
you have no more time to give, and the roads 
are exceptionally good, if you wish to make a 
bicycle trip of it. Also run down to Chartres 



170 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

over night, and to Laon, as well, to see their 
great cathedrals. You may leave Paris in the 
morning, arrive at either of them in the middle 
of the day, which will give you the afternoon 
and the next morning, and you can return 
to Paris before night. Rheims is about the 
same distance, and when you have seen those 
three cathedrals, besides Notre Dame de Paris, 
you will have at least an idea of French Gothic 
architecture. Look particularly at the stained 
glass in Chartres, and Laon, and Rheims, which 
is exceedingly fine ; the art of making it was 
lost for several hundred years, to be found 
again with a different expression but equal 
splendour, in our own day and country, by 
Mr. John La Farge. 

France is a country of inexhaustible riches ; 
you may spend your life there, as in Italy, and 
never be done going to school, but the task will 
be an ever new pleasure. 

SOME BOOKS ABOUT FRANCE 

A star (*) means that a book is of portable size, and useful 
for local reference. 

T. means that it is published in the Tauchnitz edition. 

*Walks in Paris, Augustus J. C. Hare. Macmillan. 
*Days near Paris, Augustus J. C. Hare. Macmillan. 
♦Southwestern France, Augustus J. C. Hare. Macmillan. 



FRANCE 171 

*A Little Tour in France, Henry James. T. 

Old Court Life in France (2 vols.), Mrs. Elliott. T. 

Renaissance of Art in France, Mrs. Mark Pattison. 

Mac mill an. 
The Court of France in the Sixteenth Century (2 vols.), 

Lady Jackson. Scribner. 
Old Paris, Lady Jackson. Scribner. 
France (2 vols.), J. E. C. Bodley. Macmillan. 
*The Bible of Amiens, Ruskin. George Allen. 
French Home Life, F. Marshall. Appleton. 
The Stones of Paris in History and Letters (2 vols.), 

Benjamin and Charlotte Martin. Scribner. 
Histoire de Paris, F. Bournon. 

Architecture of Provence, D. Macgibbon. Douglas. 
Travels in France in 1787-8-9, Arthur Young (Bohn 

Library). Macmillan. 
Le Chateau de Versailles (2 vols.), L. E. Diissieux. 
Old Touraine (2 vols.), T. A. Cook. Macmillan. 
The Story of Rouen, T. A. Cook. Macmillan. 
Mediaeval France, Gustave Masson. Putnam. 
Modern France, Andre Le Bon. Putnam. 
French and English, P. G. Hamerton. Roberts. 
Modern Frenchmen, P. G. Hamerton. Roberts. 
La Peinture en Europe, Le Louvre : Lafenestre and Richt- 

enberger (in English also). Scribner. 
In Praise of Paris, T. Child. Harper. 
Memorable Paris Houses, W. Harrison. Scribner. 
Promenades a Versailles, Philippe Gilles. 
France of To-day, M. Betham-Edwards. T. 
The Maritime Alps, by the author of " Vera." T. 



1T2 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

A FEW NOVELS 

Twelfth and Thirteenth Centuries 

Arthur of Brittany Peter Leicester. 

Good Saint Louis and his Times .... A. E. Bray. 
Marie de Brabant C. P. F. Meoegault. 

Fourteenth Century 

Before the Dawn George Dulac. 

Isabeau de Bavi^re Alexandre Dumas. 

The Provost of Paris W. S. Browning. 

Fifteenth Century 

Charles le Tdmeraire Alexandre Dumas. 

Quentin Durward Walter Scott. T. 

Notre Dame de Paris Victor Hugo. 

A Stormy Life Georgiana Fullerton. T. 

Sixteenth Century 

A Chaplet of Pearls CM. Yonge. T. 

La Reine Margot Alexandre Dumas. 

Francois de Guise J. M. Brisset. 

Good Old Times Anne Manning. 

Seventeenth Century 

Les Trois Mousquetaires .... Alexandre Dumas. 

Cinq-Mars Alfred de Vigny. 

Dorothy Arden J. M. Calwell. 

La Maison de Maureze Henri Greville. 

Sister Louise G. J. Whyte-MelviUe. T. 



FRANCE 173 

Eighteenth Century 

The Atelier du Lys Margaret Roberts. T. 

A Tale of Two Cities Charles Dickens. T, 

Le Collier de la Reine Alexandre Dumas. 

Cerise G. J. Whyte-Melville. T. 

Quatrevingt-treize Victor Hugo. 

Citoyenne Jacqueline Sarah Tytler. T. 

On the Edge of the Storm . . Margaret Roberts. T. 

Nineteenth Century 

Histoire d'uii Conscrit Erckmann-Chatrian. 

Waterloo Erckmann-Chatrian. 

The Parisians Bulwer Lytton. T. 

Within Iron Walls (the siege of Paris) . Annie Lucas. 
Workman and Soldier (the Commune) . . J. F. Cobb. 
A Week in a French Country-House . Adelaide Sartoris. 
Hotel du Petit St. Jean by the author of " Vera." T. 
The Village on the Cliff .... Miss Thackeray. T. 



GERMANY 

Formerly in Germany almost every little 
state had its own mint, which was bewildering ; 
but there is now a universal coinage. There is 
no copper money except in very old-fashioned 
districts, the new pieces being all made of 
nickel, and very ugly they are. 

There are one hundred pfennigs in a mark, 
which has the value of an English shilling, or 
twenty-four of our cents. The smallest nickel 
coin is for five pfennigs or one cent, and is the 
equivalent of a French copper sou. " Pfennigs " 
sounds so like " pennies " that an American is 
tempted to think that the little nickel piece 
marked " five pfennigs " is worth five cents in- 
stead of only one — which to a railway porter 
is a very harrowing error. There are also 
nickel pieces for ten and twenty pfennigs, the 
smallest silver one being for fifty pfennigs or 
half a mark. Then come one and two mark 
pieces and also one for five marks ; the smallest 
gold coin is for ten marks, and the one which 
174 



GERMANY 175 

corresponds to the English sovereign and the 
French louis is worth twenty. 

Here is the rough table of equivalents be- 
tween German money and ours : — 

German. American. 

Five pfennigs = a fraction over one cent. 

Ten pfennigs = about two cents. 

Twenty pfennigs = about four cents. 

Fifty pfennigs = Ten cents. 

One mark (or 100 pfennigs) = Twenty-four cents. 

Ten marks = Two dollars and a half. 

Twenty marks = Five dollars. 

In many ways Germany is a pleasant coun- 
try for women travelling alone, as the customs 
are simple and the scale of expenses not high. 
You can go second class everywhere on the 
railways ; indeed, there is a well-known German 
saying that only "princes, fools, and Americans" 
travel first class, but be careful, in this nation 
of smokers, to choose a carriage marked " Nicht- 
raucher " (non-smoking), or else the " Damen- 
coupe," which is reserved for our sex. 

In Germany, as in Italy, we are liked because 
so many people from both countries have emi- 
grated to North or South America, and if you 
remark that America is like a new Germany, 
you will find yourself immediately popular. Do 



176 EUROPEAN TEAVEL FOR WOMEN 

not feel too contemptuous if, after you say you 
live in New York, you are asked whether you 
have ever happened to meet a certain person 
who lives in Denver or Rio Janeiro, because it 
might not be quite easy for you to answer 
suddenly questions involving European local 
geography. You will find a great many more 
people, in all classes of society, who are able to 
speak English, than you will either in France 
or Italy ; and if they know ever so little they 
are always anxious to practise it, which is con- 
venient for travellers whose knowledge of Ger- 
man is limited. 

There is almost as much difference between 
one part of the country and another as there is 
in Italy or in the United States, the Bavarians 
and southern Germans being more easy-going, 
more artistic, and apparently more good-na- 
tured, than their brothers farther north. Al- 
though all Germany is united so far as her 
military system is concerned, Prussia is still 
distinctly the military centre, and as for Aus- 
tria, although we are apt to include it in 
Germany because its people speak the same 
language, it is really entirely different, and you 
must be careful not to call an Austrian " Ger- 
man," for he may not like it. 



GERMANY 177 

Even a woman must realize almost as soon 
as she crosses the frontier that she is among the 
greatest military nation of our time, and in 
Prussia one feels it at every turn. In the pres- 
ent emperor's zeal for effective administration 
he does not resemble the common law, which, 
according to the old axiom, does not con- 
cern itself with trifles. Nothing is too small 
to escape his supervision, and his irreverent 
subjects in Berlin say that if he had not been 
called by divine authority to the throne of the 
HohenzoUerns, he would have made an admira- 
ble superintendent of police. 

Railways have practically taken the place 
of all other conveyances now in England and 
France, except as an amusement, like coaching 
around London ; but in the more remote parts 
of Germany it is still possible to travel by dili- 
gence, or " Eilwagen," which is as great a mis- 
nomer as " fly " in English, " eilen " meaning 
to hurry, which these arks certainly do not. 
Needless to say they are under government 
supervision, and therefore as strictly regulated 
as the post-office, from which, in the little 
towns and villages where you will find them, 
they usually start. If the country is pretty, 
which is of course the inducement for taking 



178 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

them, you will see it better than from a train, 
and if you are not in a hurry, and it does not 
happen to be very dusty, there is no pleasanter 
way to travel unless you hire a carriage for 
yourselves, which is easy to do, and not expen- 
sive. The cost per day of a carriage with two 
horses, or " zwei-spanner," which will carry four 
people and a very moderate amount of luggage 
behind, is from eighteen to twenty-five marks, 
and an " ein-spanner," with one horse, for two 
people, ought to cost from ten to fifteen. The 
driver expects a mark a day as his " trink- 
geld," or tip, but he pays all the expenses of 
•himself and his horses. Supposing that you 
are in a village of the Bavarian Highlands, and 
want to make a driving tour of a few days, you 
would arrange for it in this way. Send for the 
innkeeper (for your lodging will scarcely rise 
to the dignity of an hotel), and tell him you 
want a driver whom he can recommend. When 
the man comes, he will bring a little book in 
which former employers have written what 
they thought of his services ; you will be lucky 
if these opinions are not all in German char- 
acters, and, indeed, some knowledge of the 
language is almost essential if you mean to 
travel in this antiquated way. If you like the 



GERMANY 179 

man's looks and references, say you want to see 
his horses, and this even if you are not learned 
in horseflesh. He will respect you all the more 
if he thinks you know what you are about, and 
when he brings them for inspection, any woman 
can see whether or not a horse's neck or back is 
sore, or its legs swollen. Tell him to walk them 
up and down slowly, and see if they go stiff 
or lame — they will show it then, although they 
might not at a faster gait. Make your bargain 
with him before the hotel-keeper, or some one 
whom he will know is a witness, in case of any 
difficulty as to terms when you part, although 
this is not very likely, for the German " Lohn- 
Kutscher" is as a rule an honest creature. 
The country around Ober-Ammergau is well 
suited to this way of travelling, but during the 
time of the Passion play, all prices become 
relatively as feverish as those of Paris in an 
exhibition year. With regard to that perform- 
ance (to use a conventional word which ill 
describes it), all I can say is, that when I saw 
it years ago, it left a profound and reverent 
impression on my mind, and I have always 
longed to see it again. If you mean to go, 
unless you should be so blessed by fortune as 
to have friends in Munich who will look after 



180 EXJEOPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

you, the best thing you can do is to put your- 
self into the hands of Mr. Cook, through whom 
you may make every arrangement as to lodging 
and tickets, even if you do not join one of his 
parties. 

Railway fares in Germany are cheaper than 
in England or France, those for the second 
class being about two cents a mile, and many 
of the carriages are arranged like our own. 
The American who goes into an European 
Wagner or Pullman car has at first a sensation 
of being crowded into something smaller than 
it should be, and so it is, for the tunnels in 
Europe are lower than ours, and the gauge of 
some roads narrower, which obliges a compres- 
sion of the original model. Where an English 
railway porter would expect sixpence, or his 
French fellow ten sous, for carrying the hand 
luggage of a party from the train to the omni- 
bus or cab, a German will usually be contented 
with twenty-five or thirty pfennigs, and about 
the same difference runs through all prices. 

Berlin is dear compared to other German 
cities, and women who come for serious study 
of any kind usually settle at Munich, Stuttgart, 
or Dresden. The last is pleasant and home- 
like, and one of its museums is particularly 



GERMANY 181 

interesting because it is the repository of all 
sorts of things collected gradually from one 
generation to another by the reigning family of 
Saxony. Now reigning families of other coun- 
tries have frequently had the same inclination, 
but to all of them there has come a time of 
revolution when their bronzes were melted into 
pennies, their porcelains thrown out of the 
windows, and their royal garments degraded to 
vulgar backs. Dresden has never been taken 
by siege from without, nor looted from within, 
so in her Johanneum you may see not only a 
noble collection of armour, very well arranged, 
but an infinite variety of little traps and uten- 
sils which seem to bring court life in the sev- 
enteenth and eighteenth centuries very close. 
There is a complete set of highly ornamented 
gardening tools with which an Elector of Sax- 
ony imitated Adam three hundred years ago ; 
case after case is filled with every weapon or 
accoutrement belonging to hunting and hawk- 
ing ; — even the massive dog-collars of some 
huge old hounds are piously kept. 

If every woman is at heart a rake, you will 
be interested in some very fine clothes, once 
part of the wardrobe of Augustus the Strong, 
the handsomest and most dissolute man of his 



182 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

day, whose son, Count Maurice of Saxony, was 
the lover of Adrienne Lecouvreur. 

Her name naturally suggests the theatre, 
which is excellent throughout Germany, as 
many of the best houses receive a government 
subsidy. The court theatres are, however, 
closed for two or three months in summer. 
The usual price is from five to seven marks for 
the stalls, and eight or ten for a seat in a box. 
These are sold separately, but the chairs are 
not numbered, the first-comers having a right 
to those in front. 

If you have time to take any German lessons 
the easiest way to get hold of a teacher is to 
ask a good bookseller to recommend one, which 
he can almost always do, or else he will give 
you the address of a teachers' agency, where 
you will be given a list of them. The usual 
price is two marks a lesson, as it is two francs 
in France, and two lire in Italy. 

The public parks of Germany are beauti- 
ful, the Englischer Garten at Munich, the 
Grosser Garten at Dresden, and the Thier- 
Garten at Berlin being models of their kind, 
while there are many little squares in all the 
cities which certainly give a great deal of pleas- 
ure to the inhabitants. There is one small 



GERMANY 183 

park in Berlin, the Victoria, which has an 
elaborate cliff constructed of artificial rocks, 
and every morning at a certain time a stream of 
water tumbles down it in a deliberate cascade as 
long as it is permitted to run. The pleasure 
of watching this never seems to pall on the 
population, for a patient crowd collects every 
morning to see the waterfall turned on. 

This taste for simple pleasures is very char- 
acteristic of Germany, and the life of her peo- 
ple most interesting to watch. It is perfectly 
possible for two or three ladies to go to any of 
the respectable concert-halls or gardens, and 
well worth doing. If it is indoors, there is a 
platform for the orchestra, the floor being cov- 
ered with little tables, each filled with a family 
group. Sometimes a substantial "Abendes- 
sen," or supper, is being eaten ; at others, beer 
or white wine is the refreshment. The elder 
women knit and gossip, and if the daughter of 
the family is engaged to be married, her be- 
trothed sits very close to her, often with his 
arm around her waist, and they gaze at each 
other as though they were alone in Paradise. 
The air is blue with smoke, for every man has 
either a cigar or a pipe, and waiters rush furi- 
ously to and fro, each carrying a number of 



184 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

beer-mugs that seems incredible. If it is sum- 
mer, the same thing goes on out-of-doors, and 
the music, which is the excuse for this happy 
gathering, is nearly always excellent. 

Frenchmen seem to like to take their families 
off in little groups, each somewhat apart from 
the other, but Germans are essentially gregari- 
ous in their pleasures. 

The " conditorei," or cake-shop, is not to be 
overlooked in German life. As dinner is at 
one o'clock, and supper not until nine or ten, 
by four or five it is necessary to take a light 
intermediate meal, corresponding to the Eng- 
lish afternoon tea. Coffee is preferred as a 
drink, and the solid nourishment consists of all 
sorts and conditions of cakes ; if you are so 
lucky as to have German friends, you may be 
invited to a " Kaffee-Klatsch," which answers 
to an afternoon tea-party ; but if you are a 
mere tourist you go to munch and sip at a 
"conditorei." 

Besides the regular hotels of all grades in 
Berlin, there are there, and probably in other 
German cities, hybrid establishments of a kind 
known as a " Hospiz," supposed to be meant 
especially for ladies who are alone, but gentle- 
men also go to them, perhaps on the principle 



GERMANY 185 

that makes them crowd into the ladies' waiting- 
room at a station. It cannot be for amusement, 
as a " Hospiz " is exceedingly dull, and only a 
little cheaper than a quiet hotel. We tried one 
in Berlin, and found it a sort of large "pen- 
sion," full of dreary elderly people, who talked 
chiefly about what they had to eat. 

Cabs in Berlin are divided into two classes. 
In those of the first class the drivers have blue 
coats and white collars, and have a right to a 
mark for a " course," whereas those of the sec- 
ond class, who have yellow collars, only get 
sixty pfennigs. The cabs or " droschken " are 
usually victorias, and are paid for by time 
instead of by distance ; in each one, directly 
facing you below the coachman's seat, there 
is a little dial with a hand which works while 
you are moving, checking off the number of 
pfennigs to which the cabby will be entitled 
when you stop. Of course the dial is set again 
for each new fare, and it is a fascinating con- 
trivance. 

The Zoological Garden, which is in the park 
named after it, is one of the best in the world, 
and the animals look well cared for. There 
must be a great deal in environment, because 
fat, stodgy cakes can scarcely be the natural 



186 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

food of the American coyote, yet one which 
was there a few years ago devoured them with 
rapture. 

The finest hotels and smartest shops are on 
the south side of the famous street Unter den 
Linden, so called from a double row of lime 
trees in the middle. Late in the afternoon 
this south pavement is crowded, but it is not 
the custom for ladies to walk there at that 
time, so you had better do your shopping, if 
you have any, in the morning. 

After a fortnight in a quiet German hotel, it 
will usually be quite enough to give the portier 
and your waiter eight marks, the chambermaid 
six, and the " haus-knecht," or porter, three. 

The post-office regulations are much the 
same as in France, and letters may be registered 
from any district station, but in some places, 
Berlin, for instance, the " paket postampt," or 
parcel post-office, is in a particular building 
apart from the others. If you have a parcel to 
send you had better ask your hotel porter as to 
this, or better still, let him attend to the errand 
for you, as the postal officials are sometimes 
rather gruff to women, who are not pampered 
in Germany as they are in America. 

Whitsuntide is the great popular holiday. 



GEKMANY 187 

which takes the place held by Easter with us, 
and if the weather is fine everybody who can 
possibly leave a city pours into the country 
immediately outside it, and except for the dull 
uniformity of modern dress, one may see some- 
thing of what a mediaeval festival must have 
been like. 

In a very different way, Germany has as 
much to offer the student or the tourist as 
France, and the fact that the same person 
rarely cares equally for both, helps to explain 
why the two great nations seem destined to 
remain intimate enemies. 

SOME BOOKS ABOUT GERMANY 

A star (*) means that a book is of portable size, and useful 
for local reference. 

T. means that it is published in the Tauchnitz edition. 

Germany, S. Baring-Gould. Putnam. 

Life of Goethe, G. H. Lewes. 

The Story of Nuremburg, Cecil Headlam. Macmillan. 

In the Black Forest, L. G. Seguin. 

The Rhine, F. K. Hunt. 

Austria, Sidney Whitman. Putnam. 

Art in the Mountains; the Story of the Passion-Play, 

Henry Blackburn. Sampson Low. 
Kulturhistorisches Bilderbuch aus drei Jahrhunderten, 

G. Hirth. 
Alterthum und Gegenwart unter drei Kaisern, Ernst 

Curtius. 



188 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

Goethe Vorlesungen, Hermann Grimm. 

Wanderbuch, Graf Moltke. 

9.9 Jahre am preussischen Hofe, Grafin Voss. 

Betrachtungen eines in Deutschland reisenden Deutschen, 

P. D. Fisher. 
Deutsche National Litteratur, Rudolph Gottschall. 
Die Geschichte Deutschlands im 19ten Jahrhundert, 

Von Treitschke. 
Geschichte des deutschen Volkes, David Miiller. 
Der franzosische Feldzug (1870-1871), Niemann. 
Geschichte der deutschen Frauenwelt, Johannes Scherr. 
Deutsche Frauen im Mittelalter, Weinhold. 



A FEW NOVELS 

Ninth Century 
Ekkehard (trans.) J. Victor Scheffel. T. 

Twelfth Century 

Barbarossa J. E. Bischoff. 

Fourteenth Century 
The Tower of the Hawk Jane L. Willyams. 

Fifteenth Century 
The Cloister and the Hearth . . . Charles Reade. T. 
The Dove in the Eagle's Nest . . . CM. Yonge. T. 

Sixteenth Century 
Chronicles of the Schonberg-Cotta Family . E. Charles. T. 
Lux et Umbra Georg Hesekiel. 

Seventeenth Century 

Die Tochter des Piccolomini Herlossohn. 

Historische Novellen Adolf Stern. 

Die Briider A. Ungern-Sternberg. 



GERMANY 189 

Eighteenth Century 

Friedrich der Grosse E. H. von Dedenrott. 

The Prisoner's Daughter Esme Stuart. 

Nineteenth Century 

Die Ahnen Gustav Freitag. 

Enge Welt Use Frapan. 

Ein Sohn des Volkes Levin Schiicking. 

The Witch of Prague . . . . F. Marion Crawford. T. 
A Cigarette Maker's Romance (Munich) 

F. Marion Crawford. T. 
Nina Balatka (Prague) . . . Anthony Trollope. T. 

Das Rathsel des Lebens Paul Heyse. 

Die Familie Buchholz Julius Stinde. 

Am Kreuz : ein Passions-roman aus Oberammergau 

(also in English) . . . Wilhelmine von Hillern. 
Geier-Wally (the Tyrol) . . Wilhelmine von Hillern. 
The First Violin Jessie Fothergill. T. 



ITALY 

The finances of Italy are now in such a poor 
condition that gold is at a considerable pre- 
mium and silver has practically disappeared 
from circulation, being replaced by coppers for 
one and two " soldi " or sous, which in out of 
the way parts of the south are almost the only 
medium. 

Then come notes for one, two, five, ten, and 
twenty lire, which soon become filthy, and 
remain in circulation until they drop to pieces. 
Even if you are not a slave to the fear of 
microbes, you may well shrink from touch- 
ing one of them with your bare hand. As 
the notes are very small and usually grimy, it 
is not always easy to tell them apart ; but they 
are made of different sizes because many of the 
peasants cannot read, and therefore you will 
soon become familiar with them. 

French and Italian coppers being of the same 
value, pass interchangeably in the two countries, 
but not silver pieces. 

190 



ITALY 191 

As the coinage is decimal, the table of values 
equivalent to ours is the same as in France : — 

Italian. American. 

One soldo = One cent. 

Ten soldi (or fifty centesimi) = Ten cents. 

One lira = Twenty cents. 

Five lire = One dollar. 

Ten lire = Two dollars. 

Twenty lire = Four dollars. 

Travellers who mean to go direct to Italy- 
will probably take one of the North German 
Lloyd or Hamburg- American steamers, and land 
either at Naples or Genoa. From five to seven 
days out from New York the Azores are usually 
sighted, and, if they are passed in daylight, and 
the weather is fine, the boat runs close to land, 
so that it is easy to see the little villages 
spotted here and there, and even the flocks of 
sheep which graze on the round green hillsides. 
In two and a half days more Gibraltar should 
be reached, and there steamers stop long enough 
to give passengers two or three hours ashore. 
It is well worth while to make this flying visit, 
for Gibraltar is one of the most picturesque 
places in the world, besides having historical 
interest. 

The steamship companies have an arrange- 



192 EUKOPEAN TKAVEL FOR WOMEN 

ment with the local steam tenders, in order that 
you may be sure of getting back in time, and the 
round trip costs two francs, or forty cents. Be- 
fore starting, make sure that some one in the 
party has a watch, and that it is set by the ship's 
clock, as nothing spoils pleasure more than 
having to worry for fear one should be late. A 
little English money is handy to have also, but 
not necessary, for every coinage of the world 
passes at Gibraltar, as every language seems 
to be more or less spoken. It is quite safe to 
trust yourselves to one of the smiling and poly- 
glot cabbies who are waiting on the pier, but as 
well to ask for his tariff and agree on what you 
shall pay him when he has brought you back 
again. As the time is limited, it will be necessary 
to decide whether you will see the fortifications 
or get a general idea of the whole place, and, 
unless you are especially interested in military 
engineering, you had better make the latter 
choice. The cabby will probably suggest going 
first to what is called "the neutral ground" 
behind the town, on the land side, because from 
it one gets the best idea of the great rock. The 
first view of it from the sea is somewhat disap- 
pointing, as it slopes back like any other hill, 
with peaceful houses, many of them painted a 



ITALY 193 

cheerful pink or blue, settled comfortably on its 
sides, while a little higher up there is an obso- 
lete Spanish fort. But on the land side the 
effect is entirely different. From a level stretch 
of bare ground a sheer cliff rises grim and gray 
for nearly fifteen hundred feet, pierced at close 
intervals by rows of holes which look as though 
they might have been drilled by some gigantic 
woodpecker. These are the famous galleries. 
After a good look at the rock, go back into the 
principal street of the little town, a narrow and 
crowded thoroughfare, exceedingly interesting 
to any one who sees it for the first time, 
because the most incongruous elements jostle 
each other, quite unconscious that there is any- 
thing odd in their neighbourhood. Stolid Eng- 
lish grooms are exercising sleek polo ponies, 
followed by fussy little terriers ; fresh-faced 
English girls, with smart sailor hats set on their 
shining hair, are walking as energetically as if 
they were in their county town, while every now 
and then the narrow street is almost blocked by 
a string of tiny donkeys hidden under sway- 
ing piles of green grass or vegetables, the last 
one ridden by a Spanish peasant woman who 
sits sideways on a little saddle, her keen dark 
face framed in a bright shawl. And there are 



194 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

real Moors in white bournouses and turbans, 
with bare brown legs and loose felt slippers, and 
in their impassive faces the scornful calm of the 
Oriental among Western barbarians whom he 
despises while he fears them. English soldiers, 
too, are everywhere, and of right, for Gibraltar 
has one of the largest fortress garrisons in the 
world. There is a pretty little public garden 
called the Alameda, in which the heliotrope 
and geranium bushes are as large as lilacs in a 
New England dooryard, and the market is worth 
looking into, especially if you want to buy 
fresh fruit, and by that time you will be due 
at the dock again. 

Maltese and Spanish laces are cheap at Gibral- 
tar, and if there is not time to buy them ashore 
the men who spread their wares on the steam- 
er's deck during her stop are the representa- 
tives of the shops to which you would have 
gone. Spanish fans, brass-handled clasp knives, 
and other characteristic trifles may be bought 
here, and nowhere else outside of Spain. 

In about thirty hours more one reaches Al- 
giers, and some steamers stop there in winter, 
as long as at Gibraltar. As soon as a boat 
drops anchor she is boarded by a Cook's inter- 
preter, asking if one wants to go ashore, and it 



ITALY 195 

is best to make up a party among your fellow- 
passengers and put yourselves in his charge, as 
to wander about Algiers with a stray cabman 
might not be safe, and is never satisfactory. 

If the daylight serves, drive first to the Jar- 
din d'Essai, which is about a mile and a half 
to the eastward of the town. This was started 
some years ago by the French government in 
order to see what trees and plants would thrive 
best and be most useful to the colonists, and 
there is an alley or avenue of bamboos, and 
another of india-rubber trees, which give an 
excellent idea of tropical vegetation. The en- 
virons of Algiers are interesting, because again 
there is the sharp contrast of Western civiliza- 
tion with the unchanging East. Arab carts 
with white side curtains and very rudimentary 
springs are side by side with well-turned-out 
victorias on the smooth French roads, and in the 
tram-cars the sturdy and voluble little French 
soldiers are crowded against Arab women, 
veiled and swathed into shapeless bundles. 

It is usual to leave the cabs at the top of the 
old Arab quarter, and walk down through it, 
meeting them again in the French quarter 
below. To the guides every inch of the town 
is familiar, and they will know where you 



196 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

ought and ought not to go. The narrow, 
winding streets are almost as steep as stairs, 
and one gets glimpses through archways and 
open doors of a life that seems entirely Ori- 
ental ; but at every corner there is a very 
modern gas-lamp, and the name of the street 
in white letters on a smug blue enamel plate, 
which is rather unromantic, although doubtless 
useful. 

On the eleventh or twelfth day after leaving 
New York the steamer should reach Naples, 
which is generally sighted early in the morn- 
ing. The approach to the bay is extremely 
beautiful, and well worth getting up to see. 
On the right, Capri and the rocky foreland of 
Sorrento are always visible ; the larger island 
of Ischia lies on the left, but Vesuvius is often 
almost hidden by the morning mist, and comes 
out suddenly, much higher than one expects it 
to be. A good hour and a half passes after 
entering the bay before the steamer is moored 
and the health officer allows passengers to land. 
There is now a new quay from which passen- 
gers for America go directly on board their 
steamers, but when coming out they are disem- 
barked and taken on shore by tender, as here- 
tofore, and those whose voyage terminates or 



ITALY 197 

begins here are landed or embarked at the com- 
pany's expense if the steamship is not able to 
go alongside the quay. The steamship com- 
panies have no tender service of their own, but 
passengers going on to Genoa may land while 
the vessel stops at Naples, by means of a pas- 
senger tender which runs between the hours of 
7 A.M. and 8 p.m., unless special arrangements 
are made. Tickets to shore can be had on this 
passenger tender at the price of two and a half 
lire, which permit the passenger to return to 
the steamer on the tender, or, if the latter be 
not ready alongside the landing-place, in a 
small boat, without further charge. 

As soon as the vessel stops, hundreds of row- 
boats come alongside, and the boatmen scream 
and gesticulate in the hope of attracting a 
fare, but it is in every case better, cheaper, and 
quicker to go ashore in the company's tender, 
which lands passengers with their hand luggage 
at the custom-house pier. Luggage from the 
hold follows almost immediately in a barge. 
The custom-house arrangements at Naples are 
much better than they used to be, for cabin and 
steerage passengers, with all their effects, were 
then landed in a small space, which was soon 
crowded to overflowing, but still there is no 



198 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

orderly system, and the only way to do is to 
pick out the strongest porter in sight, and then, 
with his assistance, to rout out each separate 
piece of one's luggage and collect it in one 
place, where one member of the party should 
stand guard over it, and count the pieces. 
Everything then has to be put upon wooden 
counters, behind which the custom-house offi- 
cials are stationed, arrayed in a curious uniform 
of yellow and black, suggesting the operatic 
stage. They are much less strict in their ex- 
amination than at Genoa, but the process is a 
long one and a trial to patience. The best way 
is to open every piece without hesitation, having 
one's keys ready beforehand. The articles for 
which the strictest search is made are tobacco, 
spirits, perfumery, lace, and any sort of silk or 
woollen stuff in the piece. There is no law 
limiting the value of clothing intended for 
one's own use. 

It is generally a great mistake to attempt to 
bribe one of the inspectors, unless by some acci- 
dent he is quite out of sight of all other offi- 
cials, when he will accept five lire with eager- 
ness, and the passenger will have no further 
difficulty. Women who have no man in their 
party, and who explain that they are travelling 



ITALY 199 

for pleasure, rarely, as I have said, have much 
trouble at any European custom-house, and, if 
you begin with that of Naples, you can cope 
with any which may follow. 

While the examination is going on, one of 
the party had better go outside the gates of the 
building (which she will be allowed to do if she 
carries nothing with her), and find the omnibus 
of the hotel to which they mean to go, as its 
conductor will be of material assistance in get- 
ting the luggage from the custom-house, and 
should be asked to take charge of it and pay 
the porters who carry it out, as otherwise 
half a dozen of them will seize each a 
single object, and expect to be paid a day's 
wages for carrying it a few steps. Once 
installed in the omnibus the traveller's worst 
troubles are over. 

Naples is a bad place to stop in, as it is 
noisy, dirty, dear, and not always healthy. 
This is not now due to the water, which is 
abundant, and as good as any in Italy — in 
fact, Naples and Rome are the two cities in 
which it is always safe to drink it. There 
is enough of interest to be seen, however, to 
occupy two or three days, during which it is 
a good plan to make one's headquarters at Cas- 



200 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

tellamare, which is only an hour by rail from 
Naples, and less than half an hour's drive from 
Pompeii, besides being within easy reach of 
Amalfi and Psestum. 

Remember after visiting Pompeii to go again, 
even if you have been there already, to the 
Museum at Naples where the principal objects 
found in the excavations are preserved, as it 
is impossible otherwise to form any idea of 
the conditions of life and art in the ruined 
city. 

In case the party wishes to go on at once to 
Rome, and there is a train within a few hours, 
it is not necessary to go to an hotel at all. There 
is sure to be a Cook's interpreter on the custom- 
house pier, who, on being shown the amount of 
the luggage, will engage cabs enough to take 
it, and the travellers themselves, to the railway 
station, which is nearly a mile from the port. 
The cabmen may be paid by him in advance, 
and in case of any difficulty when you get to 
the station, his colleague on duty there may be 
appealed to for assistance. As these interpre- 
ters are employed by Cook to look after persons 
travelling with the company's tickets, those 
who have not taken the latter should give a 
gratuity for the help afforded, varying with 



ITALY 201 

circumstances, and in this case from two to five 
lire, depending upon the size of the party and 
the amount of luggage. Two lire for three 
people would be enough, unless he has had 
a great deal of trouble. I cannot insist too 
much upon the fact that of all Italian cities 
Naples is the one in which one is most ex- 
posed to the rapacity and thieving of por- 
ters, cabbies, money-changers, street arabs, and 
even the smaller shopkeepers; and it is in- 
variably better to put one's self into the 
hands of a representative of an hotel, or of 
Cook's agents. Naples is the centre of gravity 
of all the dirt and evil in Italy; the country 
and the people steadily improve as one goes 
northward or southward. It is the richest as 
well as the largest Italian city, and there is 
next to no drunkenness, yet there is probably 
no spot in the civilized world where so many 
malefactors, from pickpockets to murderers, are 
gathered into a community. 

All cabs in Italy, as a general rule, are 
little one-horse victorias, and it is not safe to 
put anything into the hood behind, as the 
street thieves are uncommonly quick at grab- 
bing a parasol or a cloak. At the railway 
station, which though large is generally very 



202 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

crowded, it is always a slow and inconvenient 
business to buy tickets one's self. The por- 
ters, who wear uniform caps with little visors, 
or a metal badge on their chests with a num- 
ber on it, can be trusted with money, and 
will procure them; but, whenever practicable, 
tickets should be bought beforehand in the cit}^, 
either from Cook's, or from the railway com- 
pany's ticket office. If obliged to buy your 
own tickets, be sure to go to the right window 
of the many which face the porch to which 
carriages drive up. At each window of a large 
Italian station the names of the other principal 
stations of each line are clearly posted up, as, 
for instance, Roma-Firenze-Milano, or Foggia- 
Bologna, or Foggia-Bari-Brindisi, and so forth. 
Never try to get to the window out of your 
turn. Take your place in the line, and, when 
your turn comes, ask for your tickets, as the 
Italians do, in the fewest possible words, 
namely, " Roma, prima, tre biglietti," which 
means " Rome, first class, three tickets." Ascer- 
tain beforehand as nearly as you can what your 
tickets will cost, and have ready the smallest 
note that will cover it. The man at the win- 
dow will tell you the price, and, though it is 
stamped in small figures upon each ticket, 



ITALY 203 

you must remember that there is now an 
additional government tax which the ticket 
agent is obliged to calculate and write in 
ink on the back of each ticket. This causes 
so much confusion, that at a railway station 
ticket office it is quite out of the question to 
count your change without causing the greatest 
inconvenience to those who are impatiently wait- 
ing behind you. However, I have never known 
a ticket agent to cheat, though an accident 
might occur, as it does sometimes with tellers 
in banks. The Italians are extraordinarily 
quick and accurate at mental arithmetic, for 
Italy is really the beginning of the East, where 
the most elaborate calculations are made with- 
out the aid of written figures. In Italy all 
tickets are cut at the entrance to the waiting- 
room of the class for which they are sold. 
These rooms are marked respectively I., II., and 
III. in Roman numbers, and from them the 
traveller is at liberty to go in and out as often 
as he pleases, merely showing his already cut 
ticket as he passes the door. 

The tedious process of registering luggage 
on the Continent has been already explained 
in the notes on France. In Italy, as there, the 
porters who carry it from the cab to the check- 



204 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

ing office expect four sous for each trunk, and 
the man who actually weighs it on the scales 
should have a couple of sous for the job. The 
receipt for luggage is called in Italian " scon- 
trino," and every pound of it must be paid for. 

One hundred kilos, which is roughly equal to 
two hundred pounds, is transported for exactly 
the same price as that of one third-class passen- 
ger ticket for the same distance ; fifty kilos for 
half a third-class ticket, and so on. The price 
of a third-class and a second-class ticket added 
together is equal to that of a first-class ticket, 
and you can therefore travel second class with 
two hundred pounds of luggage, at the rate for 
which you can travel first class with no lug- 
gage at all. 

Where there is the least doubt about the 
fastenings of a trunk it should be corded and 
sealed, which will be done by the porter for the 
sum of five or six sous. The cord is not very 
strong, but if a sealed cord put on by an 
employee of the company is found broken on 
arrival, the passenger can refuse to receive the 
piece of luggage without an examination in the 
presence of officials, to make sure that nothing 
has been stolen. Though one hears many 
stories of robberies during transit, I have trav^ 



ITALY 205 

elled all over Italy, and have never met with 
any loss. The inference is that thieves do not 
try to tamper with solid boxes which are well 
closed. 

Most of the express trains on the main lines 
are so constructed that there is a lavatory 
between every two compartments, which is a 
great convenience. At Naples there is a fair 
restaurant in the station, and hand luggage 
may safely be left in charge of the head- 
waiter. Between Naples and Rome there is 
only one station, Ceprano, where food can be 
bought, and although the provisions are better 
than in Naples the fact that the train stops only 
five minutes leads to a scramble which most 
travellers prefer to avoid. The trains are usu- 
ally open half an hour before they start, and 
it is advisable to take one's place in good 
time. 

In Italian stations, two minutes before a train 
starts, which it usually does exactly on time, 
the train hands cry out, "In vettura! " (all 
aboard), and all the doors of the carriages are 
closed, after which the conductor immediately 
appears and demands the tickets. A shout of 
" Pronti ! " (ready) is then repeated from end 
to end of the station; next a shrill pocket 



206 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

whistle is heard, and if everything is all right 
it is answered by a distant horn, with a fine 
operatic effect. Last of all, a short, sharp 
whistle from the engine means real business, 
and the train draws out. The same sequence 
of sounds precedes the starting of each train, in 
every station from Piedmont to Sicily. For 
reasons of economy express trains are over- 
crowded in Italy, in the travelling season, and 
it is practically useless to tip the conductor in 
the hope of securing more room. Six tickets, 
however, will secure the right to reserve a com- 
partment in any class, but notice must be given 
half an hour before the train starts. A label 
bearing the word " riservato " (reserved) will 
then be attached to the door, and a party of 
six persons can thus obtain the use of two seats 
without paying for them. In any Italian station, 
if you have reasonable cause of complaint, as 
for instance, if a reserved carriage is invaded 
by other travellers, or if more people try to 
crowd in than a carriage will hold, the best 
way to do is to appeal at once to the official 
who wears a red cap. He is the station-master, 
his authority is absolute, and he is never acces- 
sible to fees. In Naples and other large cities, 
two or more station-masters may be on duty 



ITALY 207 

at the same time, but they all have red caps 
with gold braid. 

Italian trains, as a rule, are not heated in 
winter by steam, but two long copper foot- 
warmers, filled with hot water, are placed in 
each compartment, and are taken out and re- 
placed by fresh ones every two or three hours, 
according to the stops made. 

When the carriage is in a station, they are 
brought alongside on trucks, the door of the 
compartment is thrown open, and the porters 
inquire whether the passengers wish the foot- 
warmers to be changed. The phrase is usu- 
ally " Vuol cambiare gli scaldapiedi ? " to 
which one answers "si" or "no" as the case 
may be. 

These porters who change the foot- warmers 
seem to be, by the way, the only railway 
employees in Europe, below the rank of a 
station-master, who never receive any tip, and 
consequently never expect it. 

At the moment of entering the station at 
Rome some one of the party should open the 
window, lean out, and call " Facchino " (porter) 
holding up two fingers if more than one man is 
needed to carry the hand luggage. The one 
who first catches your eye will run alongside 



208 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

the carriage, and be ready to open the door as 
soon as you stop. 

"Whenever your train is crowded, however, 
it is well to play Ancient Mariner, and hold 
your porter with your glittering eye, for he 
may get tired trotting along, as he knows there 
are plenty more guileless strangers in the other 
carriages. 

The whole party should get out and keep 
together until the porter has collected all the 
things, and then follow him to the gate, where 
all the tickets must be given up. If you tell 
the porter the name of your hotel he will 
guide you to its omnibus, and then you can pay 
him and send him away. Give the "scon- 
trino," or receipt for the luggage, to the con- 
ductor of the omnibus, together with your keys, 
as all luggage entering the principal cities of 
Italy is subject to examination by the octroi 
office. As a matter of fact respectable-looking 
baggage is never opened, and the conductor will 
refuse the keys if he knows they are not needed. 
If you are in a great hurry to get to your hotel, 
and do not mind the difference of a franc or 
two, you can leave all your luggage and belong- 
ings to come in the omnibus, and drive to the 
hotel in a cab ; but generally it is safer to sit 



ITALY 209 

quietly in the omnibus and see the luggage 
brought out and piled on its top. A short 
ladder which belongs to the omnibus is hooked 
against its side, and up this the heaviest boxes 
are carried, with wonderful quickness, on the 
shoulders of porters, and are dropped upon the 
roof of the vehicle with a resounding bang, 
until it seems as if they must surely come 
through. The omnibus conductor, who usu- 
ally speaks a little English, will either pay 
these porters for you, or will tell you what to 
give them — the regular rate is four sous for 
each piece, but they expect a little more if the 
trunks are very heavy. There is onl}^ one cen- 
tral station in Rome, as there is in Naples, and 
what I have said holds good of every principal 
station in Italy. 

In all Italian time-tables the time is reckoned 
from midnight to midnight, through the whole 
twenty-four hours. At first it is puzzling to 
see that a train will leave or arrive at nineteen 
o'clock ; but all you have to do is to subtract 
twelve and the result will be afternoon time; 
for instance, 16.20 o'clock, with twelve sub- 
tracted, gives you 4.20 p.m. 

Rome is very different from Naples, in that 
it is by no means a city of thieves. The cab- 



210 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

men are quietly contented with their proper 
fare and are generally willing to oblige in the 
matter of stopping a moment in a " course," if 
you want to post a letter or to buy a bunch 
of flowers. The legal fare for cabs in Rome 
is only eighty centesimi the " course " in the 
daytime, but it is customary to give a lira, 
especially in the season. If you have one by 
the hour, the cabby will be perfectly contented 
with two lire an hour for as long as you want 
him, with no further tip. There are many cab 
stands, and should you find a man who satis- 
fies you, he will be delighted to come to your 
hotel every morning for orders, and will serve 
you punctually and well at the tariff rates, be- 
sides taking a friendly interest in your sight- 
seeing. If there are four in the party, for 
comfort and speed it is better to take two small 
cabs rather than one of the cumbrous old lan- 
daus that are to be found in some of the 
squares. The tramAvay system in Rome, as in 
most of the Italian cities, has developed wonder- 
fully in the last few years, and the trolley cars 
are generally clean and quick, although at cer- 
tain times of the day they are too full for com- 
fort. 

The streets are not crowded, and in no part 



ITALY 211 

of Rome will you see any signs of the human 
scum which seethes in every corner of Naples. 
The prices first asked in shops are not usually 
exorbitant; but you should never forget in 
Italy that bargaining is a custom of the coun- 
try, generally looked upon by both buyers and 
shopkeepers as a reasonable recreation which it 
would be a pity to forego. Some of the better 
shops in the Corso and the Via Condotti, as 
well as the " department stores," such as Boc- 
coni's, branches of which are found everywhere 
in Italy, sell only at fixed prices which are 
plainly marked, and there are also fixed prices 
for books and photographs; but in ordinary 
shops of all descriptions the seller expects to 
make a reduction of ten or fifteen per cent, 
depending upon the amount of the purchase. 
It will be found a great convenience and saving 
of time to carry home small packages one's self, 
as the arrangements for delivery from the shops 
are of the most primitive description. 

Antiquaries everywhere are a class apart 
among shopkeepers, as their wares have no 
absolutely definite value, and, in consequence, 
their scale of prices is decidedly sliding. Even 
thirty years ago it was sometimes possible to 
pick up treasures for almost nothing, but of 



212 EUROPEAK TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

late years Europe has been ransacked by the 
agents of dealers, and by people who knew 
both the artistic and commercial values of what 
they sought. It is almost impossible now to 
discover good old miniatures, and only a song 
by Patti or Melba will buy genuine enamels or 
renaissance ornaments. Some fine lace is still 
not very dear, but unless you really know about 
it you will pay more than it is worth. 

Part of your education, if you buy anything 
except photographs, will be to buy counterfeit 
curiosities, and you need not be ashamed of it, 
for they are made so well in these days as to 
deceive the very elect. If you see a thing you 
want in the window of a curiosity shop, go in 
and ask to be allowed to look at it, and if there 
are a lot of other things which seem to you 
attractive, buy some trifle for a franc or two, 
which will give you the freedom of the shop, 
so to speak, and you will be allowed to stay as 
long as you choose and rummage for yourself. 
The only rule I can give to beginners is that, 
if the price asked for an article is less than that 
for which it could be made now, it is probably 
genuine. For instance, if a small piece of deli- 
cately wrought (not cast) metal costs only a few 
francs, you may be pretty sure that you have 



ITALY 213 

something which is genuine, if not rare ; but 
when it comes to more important pieces, it is 
well to have the judgment of some one who 
knows more than you do. In France, and I 
think also in Italy, if you can get a dealer to 
warrant anything on his bill as genuine, you 
may be pretty sure it is so, for there is a heavy 
penalty against misrepresentation in such a case, 
and you should exact this warranty if you buy 
anything costly. The method of bargaining is 
simple. You pick up carelessly the thing you 
want and say, "How much is this?" The 
dealer names a price. You look surprised and 
say, " That is too much," put it down, and 
move away as if you did not really care for it. 
The dealer will then offer it for somewhat less, 
whereupon you smile indifferently and say, " No, 
that is still too dear, I will give you so-and-so." 
The dealer will then exclaim that that is less 
than he paid for it, and that it would ruin him 
to let you have it for such a trifling sum. You 
look polite, and intimate that in that case you 
will not deprive him of it, and go toward the 
door. In nine cases out of ten he will call after 
you a sum so near yours that you need not mind 
meeting it, and he thinks all the better of you 
for having understood how to deal with him. 



214 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

If you have strength of mind enough to do it, 
you may leave the shop and go away, trusting 
to find the dealer in a more moderate frame of 
mind the next time you pass, as you probably 
will. You run the risk, however, if what you 
want to buy is showy and attractive, that some 
rich fellow-countrywoman may pass between 
your visits and carry it off. In Italy there is 
no law obliging a hall-mark to be put on gold 
or silver, but the purchaser may require it, 
and, if he does, the seller is bound to have the 
object assayed and stamped, without charge. 

It is well to have a bill for everything unless 
you know the shop very well, as dealers occa- 
sionally come to one's hotel demanding payment 
a second time when there is no record. A 
favourite way of appearing to reduce a price is 
to offer to pack the article for you beautifully, 
so that it Avill travel anywhere, without extra 
charge. Resist this offer, however, because as 
a rule such packing is carelessly done, and 
your piece of china or terra-cotta may arrive 
in minute fragments. Order it sent to your 
banker, who will have it carefully packed for 
you by a professional packer ; or else the pack- 
ing will be done by the American Express 
Company, which during the last ten years 



ITALY 215 

has established offices in ahnost all the large 
cities of Europe, and you can arrange to have 
whatever you buy forwarded by it either by 
express or as freight, the latter being much 
the better way. If you buy a lot of terra- 
cotta pots and jars, for instance, they may 
be packed with fine hay in a large barrel or 
cask, and sent out as freight to America, 
either while you are away or after you come 
home, the express company paying all charges 
of transport and customs, and delivering them, 
with the bill, at your house. They will also 
send your luggage from one part of Europe to 
another, and between large cities the service is 
excellent ; but when they must deal with small 
country railways where any system of express 
or idea of haste is unknown, they are power- 
less against the local inertia. A parcel from 
Paris to Rome, for instance, will often be deliv- 
ered sooner then one which only has to go 
from Rome to Sorrento. 

It is absurd to expect to know Rome even 
tolerably well in a short time, but as that is all 
that most of us are able to give, some sug- 
gestions may be useful as to what is best 
worth seeing pretty thoroughly. It may be 
most easily studied in a superficial way, 



216 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

either archseologically, as a half -buried an- 
cient city, of which the most valuable part 
is distinctly traceable, or else as the modern 
active centre of the Roman Catholic Church. 
There is a vast amount of interesting material 
connected with the Middle Ages, but it is hard 
to find, and harder still to understand. Strictly 
modern Rome, as the capital of Italy, is rather 
less interesting than most modern capitals of 
similar type. Everything which belongs to 
ancient times is easily accessible, and there are 
excellent books, both archaeological and his- 
torical, to be had at the Roman book-sellers', 
by the aid of which a considerable knowledge 
of the subject may easily be acquired. 

Through Signor Lanciani's works we may 
trace the ancient city from its splendour to its 
fall, and Mr. Marion Crawford's "Ave Roma," 
which combines history with romance, is a valu- 
able companion in rambles about its old streets. 

It is another matter to get at any true under- 
standing of the ecclesiastical organization which 
extends from Rome to the ends of the world. 
It is astonishing to find how few people who 
visit St. Peter's and the Roman basilicas dur- 
ing the great functions of Holy Week have 
any intelligent idea of what those ancient cere- 



ITALY 217 

monies mean. Yet all of them have their origin 
in very remote times, and every detail of them 
is a part of an elaborate symbolism, which 
extends from the vestments of the priests to the 
architecture of the churches themselves. There 
are books to explain these symbols, but few peo- 
ple have the patience to read them, and by far 
the best way, when you are in a church, if you 
can speak any Italian, is to ask questions of the 
sacristan who is showing it to you, or of any 
priest who may be in sight. 

They are always courteous, and it is easy to 
gain all the information one wishes, without 
entering into questions of religion, as they are 
pleased by any interest that is shown, and it is 
only necessary to seem gravely interested, avoid- 
ing any appearance of levity while speaking 
of such matters. The sacristan of an Italian 
church is very often a delightful old person, 
loving every stone of his building, and knowing 
every story connected with it, and in that case it 
is well worth while to talk to him, rather than to 
wander about by yourself .^ If you see a number 
of people on their knees, be careful not to pass 
between them and the altar, especially if a priest 

1 The following remarks apply not only to Kome, but to 
all Catholic churches in Europe. 



218 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

is officiating. Any altar on which the tabernacle 
is covered with a sort of hood of brocade, and 
before which lights are burning, is the one in 
that particular church where the consecrated 
bread is deposited for the time being, and there 
are often many people kneeling in prayer before 
it. It is the presence of the Sacrament which 
Catholics desire visitors to respect, and when 
there are no services going on, you may go up 
the steps of any other altar, even the high one, 
examine it, and speak in an ordinary tone, as 
you would in any other part of the church. 
During the mass, it is at the moment of conse- 
crating the bread and wine that a little bell is 
rung several times in succession, to give warn- 
ing of the fact all over the church, and from 
that moment many of those who are hearing 
mass remain on their knees until after the com- 
munion. During that time, be especially care- 
ful to be reverent in your manner and do not 
pass between groups of worshippers. 

Non-Catholics are apt to be shocked at the 
apparent indifference of Catholics in foreign 
churches, especially in Italy; this is, however, 
less noticeable in Rome than elsewhere, perhaps 
because that city has been for so many centuries 
the resort of devout persons from all parts of 



ITALY 219 

Christendom. In Italy churches have from very 
early times been places of meeting or resort, 
with the natural result that the place is treated 
less reverently than if it were only used at stated 
times for solemn services. 

The great basilicas are open all day, but 
many of the smaller and less visited churches 
are closed from noon until three, and a few are 
seldom open except on Sunday mornings. 

The parish churches are open from early 
morning till sunset, and their generally even 
temperature attracts the poor in cold weather. 
You should have some loose coppers handy when 
you visit churches anywhere on the Continent, 
as there is usually a blind man, a cripple, or a 
very old woman to lift for you the heavy leather 
curtain which hangs over the door, and as it 
shines with the grease of generations of hands, 
a penny or two is well bestowed on the poor 
creature who saves you from touching it. 

The ecclesiastical reckoning of the day goes 
through the twenty -four hours, beginning at the 
Ave Maria bell, which rings half an hour after 
sunset, and is altered a quarter of an hour from 
time to time, as the days lengthen. In Janu- 
ary it rings at half-past five, but in July not 
until eight o'clock. 



220 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

With regard to seeing ceremonies not now 
performed in public, or visiting places, like the 
garden of the Vatican, which are the property 
of the Holy See, it is not growing any easier to 
obtain the necessary permits, and it is utterly 
useless to trouble your embassy or consulate 
with such requests. A personal introduction to 
one of the Pope's chamberlains, of whom there 
are many, or to a prelate in his household, or to 
any ecclesiastic of high standing in Rome, will 
procure the desired admission when possible. 

As for attempting to obtain a private audi- 
ence of the Pope, unless you have some very 
influential friend attached to the Vatican, it is 
just so much time thrown away. It is not very 
easy, either, to obtain a presentation at Court. 
Those who desire this privilege should always 
begin by getting an introduction to their am- 
bassador, in order that in making their request 
they may be personally known to him, for 
ambassadors are not in any sense obliged to 
present their countrymen at the Court to which 
they are accredited. It is always an unusual 
privilege, and should be asked for as such. 
Should it be obtained for you, inform yourself 
at once of the kind of dress you are expected to 
wear, which varies according to the time of day, 



ITALY 221 

and be careful to conform exactly to the instruc- 
tions given you by some one thoroughly familiar 
with the etiquette. Under no circumstances can 
you appear at Court in mourning ; whereas if 
you should be received at the Vatican, or are 
admitted to any of the high ceremonies in the 
Sistine Chapel, or in St. Peter's, within the bar- 
rier of reserved seats, you must go entirely in 
black, and wear a large black lace veil or mantilla 
pinned to your hair and falling down behind, 
instead of a hat or bonnet. Your gloves must 
also be black, but a curious old tradition forbids 
men to wear any gloves on such occasions. 
Ladies, by the way, very generally wear black 
in the streets in Italy, and especially in 
churches. 

Rome was formerly considered a very un- 
healthy city, but this is certainly not now the 
case, as statistics show. Avoid it altogether, 
however, for the six weeks between the fifteenth 
of August to the first of October, when the first 
autumn showers are followed by sultry heat, 
and produce feverish emanations. At all 
times avoid stopping to talk, or sitting down 
in the shade after having been some time 
in the sun; avoid cold drinks when heated, 
unless you are going to take more exercise at 



222 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

once ; and be careful not to check perspiration 
suddenly. Never allow yourself to go too long 
without food ; the Romans eat more meat than 
any other people in Italy, and the climate 
requires it. 

Arrange your sight-seeing so that you may 
be at your hotel in time for luncheon every day, 
and rest for at least half an hour after it. Take 
an extra cloak with you, and put it on when 
you go into a gallery or church, especially in 
spring, when the outer air is much warmer 
than that within. In Italy, as in all southern 
countries, one goes out to get warm, and comes 
in to get cool. It is a good plan to drive to your 
sight, and walk back from it, as that will pre- 
vent any chilliness. Never allow yourself to feel 
cool at sunset, and never sit down or stand still 
to look at a view at that time. Be twice as 
careful outside of Rome, on the Campagna, as 
in the city itself, for there lies your only real 
chance of danger, and do not eat overripe fruit, 
as that is more unhealthy than when it is green. 

One of the traveller's first errands is usually 
to the post-office. In large Italian cities, the 
windows of the Poste Restante, from which 
letters are distributed, are distinguished by 
letters of the alphabet. If you are expecting to 



ITALY 223 

find letters there, present your visiting card at 
the window corresponding to your initial letter, 
and say quietly, " Chi sono letter e ? " with no 
further explanation. Ordinary letters will be 
delivered to you without question. You may, 
however, be given a yellow card notifying you 
of the arrival of a registered letter, which is 
delivered from another window, marked " Rac- 
comandate e Valore." It is hopeless to claim 
it unless you have with you a passport, a letter 
of credit, or some other official document bear- 
ing your attested signature, or unless you are 
accompanied by a person known to the officials, 
and who will vouch for you. For this reason 
it is always better and simpler, when practi- 
cable, to have all your letters addressed to the 
care of a banker. People often lose patience 
at the formalities required for identification in 
foreign post-offices, forgetting that precisely 
the same proper precautions are taken at 
home. 

If you wish to register a letter, or book, 
which should always be done in Italy if the 
contents are of the least value or importance, 
find the window marked " Raccomandate, " 
which is rarely the same as that at which reg- 
istered letters are delivered. Letters to be 



224 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

registered for the Continent are generally 
required to be sealed with wax with a recog- 
nizable device or initial ; letters which are to 
cross the ocean are not allowed, however, to be 
sealed with wax if registered, on account of the 
heat in the mail-rooms of transatlantic steamers. 
You are not required to write your name 
and address on the envelope, but the clerk asks 
you for them, enters them in a book, and gives 
you a receipt. If you send a telegram, by the 
way, you will be asked by the clerk if you wish 
a receipt, which, if you take it, costs one sou 
more than the cost of the telegram. If you go 
to the office yourself, this is useless, but if you 
send a despatch from the hotel, or by a mes- 
senger, you should always require the latter to 
bring the receipt back with him, and if you use 
any language except Italian, print the words 
very plainly, to avoid mistakes. 
^ There is no express as we understand it, but 
you can send parcels of considerable size by 
what is called " pacco postale." To do this is a 
complicated matter, involving the filling out of 
elaborate printed forms, therefore it is better 
to have it done for you by the friendly 
" portier " of the hotel. If, however, you have 
to attend to it yourself, go to the window in 



ITALTE 225 

the post-office marked " pacchi postali," and 
say to the clerk, " Vorrei mandare questo pacco 
postale a Bologna," or whatever the place may 
be. 

As many people in Italy cannot read or 
write, the clerks are used to filling up the 
blanks for them, or, if you understand Italian, 
you can manage it yourself. Your parcel must 
not be sealed with wax when you bring it in, 
nor closed in such a manner that its contents 
could not be examined if required. This is 
because it is forbidden to send tobacco tlirough 
the mails, by any means whatever. As a mat- 
ter of fact, your parcel is rarely opened, but is 
sealed before your eyes with wax and the offi- 
cial post-office stamp. 

Should you msh to insure a postal package, 
it must be sewn up in stout linen or cotton 
cloth, no matter what its size may be, and wax 
is daubed all along the seam, so that to open it 
would be impossible. 

Except in one or two large hotels, frequented 
by rich Americans, prices in Rome are lower 
than in Paris, and arrangements to go "en pen- 
sion" easily made. If you mean to be some 
time there, and have not been directed to an 
hotel, your best plan will be to stop at one near 



226 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

the station over night, and sally out to see 
rooms and compare prices the next morning. 

Travellers may be broadly divided into two 
classes, Romans and Florentines, that is, those 
who distinctly prefer one city to the other. 
This often seems to depend upon which of the 
two they have seen first, but it is also the 
result of the radical difference between the two 
cities. Florence has practically one connected 
past which is of interest, from the beginning of 
the thirteenth to the ending of tlie sixteenth 
century; whereas in Rome there have been half 
a dozen periods of great historical value, cover- 
ing altogether not less than two thousand years, 
and while you will not find in Rome such 
isolated objects of beauty as Giotto's Tower, or 
the Strozzi Palace, the views of the city from 
the Pincio or the Villa Corsini are incompara- 
bly beautiful. 

The picture galleries in Florence are glorious, 
and have the great advantage of having all their 
treasures collected practically under one roof ; 
while in Rome a great number of masterpieces 
are still scattered in private collections, and must 
be visited separately, and on different days. 

Florence seems much smaller than Rome, and 
is therefore to many people more homelike, and 



ITALY 227 

the country around her, especially in early 
spring, when the fruit trees are in bloom, is 
charming, but as she lies in a valley, in summer 
the heat is sometimes very great. If you are 
only there for a short time, after you have seen 
all you can of the galleries, drive to Fiesole and 
San Miniato, and walk in the older narrow 
streets of the city, which are some of them 
being torn down to make way for " modern im- 
provements." 

If three people have stayed for two weeks in 
Rome or Florence, the following schedule of 
tips would be about right, in one of the quiet 
hotels to which I have referred throughout : 
the " portier " should have ten francs, also the 
head waiter ; the waiter of your sitting room, 
if you had one, five or ten (according to the 
amount of trouble he has had) ; your dining 
room waiter, ten to fifteen ; the chambermaid, 
ten for all your rooms ; and the facchino, five, 
which includes bringing up and taking down 
the luggage. 

This is the division of labour in an Italian 
hotel, or, indeed, anywhere on the Continent: 
the rule is that you ring once for the waiter, 
twice for the chambermaid, and three times for 
the porter. The waiter brings you your break- 



228 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

fast in the morning if you wish it in your room, 
as most people do, and, as it is not safe to drink 
water indiscriminately, if you are used to iced 
water at night, you should send for a bottle of 
some kind of mineral water before you go to 
bed, and the waiter will bring you that. The 
chambermaid brings you hot water, your bath, 
and everything relating to the service of your 
rooms, and will brush your skirt if you wish it. 
The porter, or " facchino," attends to your boots, 
which will be taken away by the chambermaid 
when she arranges your room in the evening ; 
he also does any "odd jobs" which may be 
necessary, such as having your trunks repaired, 
shoes and umbrellas mended, or anything of 
that kind. He and another porter will carry 
up your boxes to your rooms and also take 
them down when you go away, which you must 
not forget in his tip. If you have only a 
couple of trunks, a lira is enough for him, but 
if there are several pieces and they are heavy, 
it is not too much to give one when you come 
and one when you go, which, after all, makes 
only twenty cents to each man. 

Avoid as much as you can stopping only one 
night in places, if you wish to be economical, 
as that is always more expensive than a long 



ITALY 229 

stay on account of the tips. You can scarcely 
leave less than five francs behind you in gratui- 
ties if you stop over night, which may be thus 
divided : one franc to the " portier," one to 
your chambermaid, one to the table d'hote 
waiter, one to your room waiter, and one to the 
facchino. 

If you stay more than two or three days in 
Venice, as you certainly will wish to do, you 
had better engage a gondolier to be at your ser- 
vice during your stay. This is easy to do, as 
any of the men from the stands at the ferries 
will gladly take such a place. The legal rate 
is five francs a day for a gondola and one man ; 
if you want another rower for long expeditions, 
he is hired extra, and the gondolier expects a 
franc or a franc and a half a day, " buonamano " 
or "pourboire." For this modest sum he will 
be at your service from early in the morning 
until late at night, and will cheerfully tell you 
the name of every church and palace as you pass 
them. The Venetian gondolier is as simple and 
kindly a creature as the Roman or Florentine 
cabby, and we hear occasionally now from our 
last one, whose name, literally translated, is 
Christmas Shoe. There is a tide in the Adri- 
atic, although not in the Mediterranean, there- 



230 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

fore, when you go out in the morning, ask your 
gondolier, or the hotel "portier," if you do not 
speak Italian, whether the tide is high or low, 
for it rises and falls in Venice about two feet, 
and the smaller canals and water alleys, so to 
speak, smell vilely at low water, especially in 
warm weather. If the tide is low in the morn- 
ing, it must be high in the afternoon, there- 
fore you should arrange your day so as to be in 
the galleries or large churches during the low 
water, and make exploring expeditions when 
the canals are full. 

Venice is probably more infested than any 
city in the world with touts, guides, and itiner- 
ant vendors. If you stop for a moment under 
the arcades which surround the square of St. 
Mark's, to look into a shop window, unless it 
belongs to one of the better class of jewellers or 
book- sellers, its proprietor will promptly emerge 
from within and implore you in oily English to 
come and see how much better and cheaper his 
goods are than those you will find anywhere 
else. If you hesitate, you are lost, and will 
certainly end by getting something you do not 
want, at five times its value. Look steadily 
and stolidly in front of you as if you were stone 
deaf. This has a disheartening effect, and he 



ITALY 231 

will probably retreat. The guides who wish to 
show you St. Mark's Church pursue you within 
its very doors, and the gentlest tourist must 
resort to a fierce shake of the finger and an 
energetic "Ya via! " (get out). Your gondo- 
lier will always be willing to leave his boat 
when you alight, and will go with you into any 
church that you wish to see ; he may or may 
not know much about that particular place 
(although an Italian is intensely proud of his 
native city and apt to know a good deal about 
its historic monuments), but in any case he 
will be useful as a body-guard to keep off the 
swarms of guides and beggars, and he will do 
so with an eloquence of vituperation which you 
could never hope to equal. 

Into the museums and picture galleries the 
street guides dare not follow you, but there it 
becomes a question as to whether or not it is 
wise to ask questions of the " custodi " who are 
in charge of the different rooms. If you do not 
wish to take the trouble of poring over a cata- 
logue, they are sometimes of use, as they natu- 
rally know every object in the place where 
they spend their lives ; but, on the other hand, 
they may be terrible nuisances. To walk 
through a picture gallery with a half-educated 



232 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

man at yonr elbow, giving you volubly inaccu- 
rate information about the paintings or draw- 
ings, is trying ; but, on the other hand, in small 
local museums where all sorts of things are col- 
lected, a friendly guardian will call your atten- 
tion to something you would certainly have 
overlooked by yourself. After all, it comes 
down largely to a question of temperament. 
Some people are exasperated by that sort of 
interference, but others are so anxious to learn 
everything they can that they accept it without 
being annoyed. Some member of a party 
usually seems to be marked out by nature for the 
attentions of these guardians, for one will im- 
mediately fasten himself upon her and dog her 
steps, while her companions go free, and prob- 
ably jeer at her from a distance. 

Many of the smaller Italian cities may be 
seen in a few hours, without sleeping in them, 
if they are taken on the way between two 
larger ones, for in Italy, as in England, it is 
almost impossible to go twenty miles without 
finding some place at which you want to 
stop. 

Suppose you leave a large city at eight or 
nine o'clock in the morning, sending your 
luggage through to the other large town at 



ITALY 233 

which you mean to sleep. You reach the small 
place in an hour or two, before it is time 
for the midday breakfast, and get out at the 
station. 

As you appear, a few cabbies drowsing in the 
sun will suddenly wake up and come franti- 
cally toward you. Choose the one who has the 
best horse and cleanest cab, tell him that you 
will take him by the hour, — a piece of extrava- 
gance which in most small towns will cost you 
twenty-five cents, — and, having found out be- 
forehand in Baedeker which is the best hotel, go 
there first. Say that you will be back for the 
table d'hote breakfast, and leave any parcels or 
wraps which you do not want. 

If you are not quite sure just what you want 
to see, go first to the best local bookseller, buy 
a guide of the place, and also ask to look over 
his album of local photographs. Then, if you 
see anything striking, you can ask about it, and 
either buy your photographs then or after you 
have seen the original. Let me advise you 
never to throw away your photographs of 
places, because they become more valuable with 
time. I once cleared out a great many photo- 
graphs of Rome which were taken thirty 
years ago, and have regretted it ever since ; 



234 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

as the city lias greatly changed, the comparison 
with modern ones would have been extremely 
interesting. 

Go to see the churches and museums as early 
as possible, for they are sometimes closed in the 
afternoon. When you get back to the hotel 
to have your breakfast you may tell your cabby 
that you will take him again at such a time in 
the afternoon, and he will be only too delighted 
to return. 

After luncheon take a little drive around the 
town, which will not only rest you but give you 
a distinct impression of it ; then go on with your 
sight-seeing if you choose, and get to the station 
in good time to pick up the through train for 
your destination, You will often find some 
difficulty in getting seats together in these 
trains which you tap at small stations, but that 
is a small drawback compared to the pleasure 
you will have had in your day. 

If you wish to stop at a town for a few hours, 
you may find that you will reach it at one o'clock 
or half past, in which case it is a great saving 
of time to have your luncheon in the train, so 
that when you arrive you may have your whole 
time free, and for a small charge you may have 
your hand luggage in the " deposito," or parcel- 



ITALY 235 

room, of the station, and collect it when you 
take your train. 

You cannot travel on the Continent without 
taking the church holidays into consideration, 
and it is worth while to buy a calendar and 
keep account of them, as in Catholic countries 
they make a great difference. 

Many cities have their patron saints, whose 
feast days are elaborately observed. The 25th of 
April is Saint Mark's Day, as I shall always re- 
member now, because once we were so stupid as 
to get to Venice the day after, when we might 
just as well have been there the day before. 

The feast of the Redentore, or Redeemer, 
which comes on the 17th of July, is also inter- 
esting at Venice, as there is a bridge of boats, 
and the gondoliers have races in which the men 
from the different quarters of the city show 
great rivalry. 

There is also a very curious ceremony outside 
the Cathedral of Florence on Easter Eve — but 
the list of these celebrations is almost endless, 
and you must try to learn about them as you 
go along. All great festivals are close holidays 
so far as business is concerned ; so do not let 
yourself run short of money, as no banker's will 
be open. 



236 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

If one of your party should be taken ill any- 
where, ask the " portier " who are the American 
or English physicians in the place, and decide 
upon one of them. If there are no foreign 
practitioners, do not trust to the advice of 
the hotel keeper as to your choice, because, 
although in nine cases out of ten he would 
probably tell you the best man, if, on the tenth, 
his own brother should be in the profession, as 
might well happen, the temptation to recom- 
mend him would perhaps be too strong. Go 
at once to the American or English consul for 
advice, and if there is none, go to the largest 
local hospital, ask who is the best doctor, and 
send for him. If you are in any doubt as to 
the nature of the ailment, beg him to tell you 
at once whether it is anything contagious, and 
if it should be, ask him what you are to do. 
If he is a reputable practitioner he will save 
you much trouble, and as a rule there are more 
good people than knaves in the world, and not 
many men of decent standing will deliberately 
take advantage of women if they are put upon 
their honour. But I am bound to warn you 
that I have heard very grim tales of hardship 
and extortion in just such cases of contagious 
disease, where the physician was more than 



ITALY 237 

supposed to have been in league with the 
hotel keeper. If you have any reason to think 
that you have fallen on any such evil case, you 
had better send for the " sindaco " or " maire," 
who is the highest local authority, or go to his 
office, and state your case to him. 

Obey any regulation which may be imposed 
on you, and do not be unreasonable, for you 
must remember that it is a very serious thing 
for a hotel keeper to have a case of contagious 
disease in his house, and one against which he 
has a right to protect himself and his other 
lodgers. 

In case of death, the mayor, or your banker, 
if you know no one else, can always at least tell 
you of a reputable undertaker, and also with 
which forms you are expected to comply. 

Having given this warning, I think it only 
fair to say that, although my different visits 
to Europe cover now a period of more than 
thirty years, I have never personally met any 
instance in an hotel of anything but cordial 
sympathy and cheerful service in a case of 
illness. 

Many women who Avould like to go to Sicily 
are deterred because they think the travelling 
is likely to be rough, and that there is still 



238 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

danger of brigands. Both these ideas are erro- 
neous, at least as regards any place where you 
are likely to want to go. In the country back 
of Etna there are brigands still, plenty of them, 
notwithstanding the assurances of the hotel 
keepers near the coast that brigandage is quite 
extinct ; but supposing that you wish to get a 
general idea of the island, you can do so quite 
well without leaving the line of railway except 
for a very short distance, and railways are as 
discouraging to brigands as running water to 
witches. 

As to the best time for your visit, the ideal 
season is, of course, in March or early April, 
when everything is in the glory of the southern 
spring, but any time after the 1st of January 
is delightful. November and December are 
often wet, but after the first of the year the 
climate is fresh, yet never with any approach 
to frost, and it is distinctly warm in the sun. 
The hotels are good, and the people compare 
favourably with those on the mainland ; they 
are dignified, sometimes almost taciturn, and 
often very handsome. 

It may be that in twenty or thirty years the 
island may be as overrun by tourists as central 
Italy is now, but for the present it is not, and 



ITALY 239 

it is full of interest and charm. The dialect 
is almost unintelligible to strangers, but nearly 
all the peasants can speak a little " high Ital- 
ian," which they do very clearly. 

Steamers of the " Navigazione Generale Sici- 
liana" leave Naples every evening about eight 
o'clock, getting to Palermo at half-past seven 
the next morning. Find out before you go 
which boat is the best, as there is usually a 
choice, and if you can get a card of introduc- 
tion from your banker at Naples, or your hotel 
keeper, to the office of the steamship company, 
it will be an advantage, because the cabins are 
very much crowded with berths, and in order 
to be at all comfortable two people must take a 
cabin meant nominally for four, but with the 
help of a little influence you will probably not 
have to pay for more than two places. 

You may dine comfortably at Naples before 
you go, and breakfast at Palermo next morning. 
The crossing is a lottery. In fine weather it is 
quite smooth, but there is often a queer little 
twisting sea which makes a disagreeable motion, 
something like that of the English Channel. 
Although the steamers are not large, they do 
not go up to the dock at Palermo, and you are 
landed in open boats as at Naples. There is a 



240 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

custom-house there through which you must 
pass, although you are still in Italy, but it is 
not annoying. 

The guide-books all unite as to the best hotel 
in Palermo, which is the one, by the way, in 
which Richard Wagner died, and its proprietor 
has relatives who keep most of the other hotels 
in the towns to which you will be likely to go 
during your trip. 

A month or six weeks is certainly not too long 
for anything like a satisfying visit to Sicily ; 
but, on the other hand, if you can only give it 
a fortnight, you will come away with a very 
distinct impression, and, unless you have very 
bad luck, exceedingly pleasant memories. 

If you are there in early spring you will have 
the glory of the fruit blossoms, but, as you can- 
not have everything, the orange season will be 
over ; if, however, your visit is during mid- 
winter, their season will be at its height, and no- 
body who has not been where they grow knows 
how good the mandarin orange can be when it 
is eaten warm off its bough. 

There is a dealer in Palermo who advertises 
in all the hotels, and he will send boxes of man- 
darins, prepaid, for a very few francs, to any 
address in France, Germany, Italy, or England, 



ITALY 241 

which is a very easy way of giving pleasure to 
friends who have been kind to one. 

One thing is worth remembering in Sicily. 
If you want to get any money, allow yourself 
plenty of time. Over the door of any banking 
house on the island should be inscribed, " Who 
enters here leaves haste behind." You are 
treated with the utmost courtesy, but their 
methods are deliberate. After you have given 
up your letter of credit, you wait and wait until 
you feel as if they must have had time enough 
to send it back to London or Paris ; then, after 
you have signed the slip of paper, you wait 
again for another age until your money comes. 
In one town it took me exactly one hour 
and twenty minutes to get a few hundred 
lire. 

If you are short of time, in a week you can see 
Palermo and its environs fairly well, although 
there are many expeditions which would take 
you longer. That to the ruins of the temple 
of Segesta is one of the most interesting, but to 
make it involves a very hard day's work, as you 
must leave the railway station at Palermo at a 
quarter before six in the morning and will not 
get back until a quarter before nine at night ; 
the alternative being to sleep at a small village 



242 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

a few miles from the temple, which is not 
recommended. 

In a fortnight you can easily make the fol- 
lowing trip: from Palermo to Girgenti, it is 
seven hours by rail, and you will want to stay 
about two days ; from Girgenti to Catania is 
about the same time, and one day is enough for 
there ; from Catania to Syracuse is about three 
hours, and there you will want several days ; 
from Syracuse you go to Taormina (passing 
through Catania again) in five hours, and if you 
have good weather you will probably want to 
stay there as long as you can, for it is an en- 
chantingly beautiful place. Taormina is only 
two hours from Messina, which has no good 
hotel, so you can leave the former place in the 
morning, and see the sights of Messina in a few 
hours. A little boat leaves there every after- 
noon at half-past five which crosses to Reggio, 
on the Calabrian mainland, in three quarters 
of an hour, and connects with the through 
night train for Rome, which has sleeping-cars 
modelled on ours. You may take your tickets 
in Messina, and if you wish to rush straight 
through, you will be in Rome by three o'clock 
next day ; but you will be wiser to break the 
journey at La Cava or Naples, and if you 



ITALY 243 

stop at La Cava you can easily go to Psestum, 
and will then have seen all the finest classic 
ruins outside of Greece. 



SOME BOOKS ABOUT ITALY 

A star (*) means that a book is of portable size, and useful 
for local reference. 

T. means that it is published in the Tauchnitz edition. 

Der Cicerone, J. Burckhardt. 

The Renaissance of Art in Italy (2 vols.), Mrs. Mark 

Pattison. Macraillan. 
Renaissance Fancies and Studies, Vernon Lee. Putnam. 
Studies of Travel in Italy, E. A. Freeman. Putnam. 
Italian Popular Tales, F. T. F. Crane. Macmillan. 
Italian Journeys, W. D. Howells. Houghton & Mifflin. 
Notes of Travel and Study in Italy, Charles Eliot 

Norton. Houghton & Mifflin. 
Italian Byways, J. A. Symonds. Smith & Elder. 
North Italian Folk, Mrs. Comyn Carr. Chatto & Windus. 
The Architecture of the Renaissance in Italy. Wm. J. 

Anderson. Scribner. 
History of Painting, L. Lanzi. (Bohn library, 3 vols.) 

Macmillan. 
*Early Italian Painters, Mrs. Jameson. 
Sketches and Studies in Italy by J. A. Symonds: The 

Renaissance in Italy ; Age of the Despots ; Revival 

of Learning; The Fine Arts. Scribner. 
Studies of the Eighteenth Century in Italy, Yernon 

Lee. 
Diary of an Idle Woman in Italy, Mrs. Elliot. T. 
Venetian Life, W. D. Howells. T. 



244 EUEOPEAN travp:l for women 

Venice, an Historical Sketch, Horatio Brown. Putnam. 

Life on the Lagoons, Horatio Brown. Putnam, 

La Peinture en Europe ; Venise. Lafenestre & Richten- 

berger. (Also in English. Scribner.) 
The Makers of Venice, Mrs. Oliphant. Macmillan. 
Venetian Painters of the Renaissance, B. Berenson. 

Putnam. 
Venise, Ch. Yriarte. 

The Stones of Venice, Ruskin. George Allen. 
*St. Mark's Rest, Ruskin. George Allen. 
Venice, Alethaea Wiel. Putnam. 
*Walks in Florence: Churches, Streets, and Palaces, 

S. and J. Horner. King. 
*Mornings in Florence, Ruskin. George Allen. 
The Makers of Florence, Mrs. Oliphant. Macmillan. 
Florentine Painters of the Renaissance, B. Berenson. 

Putnam. 
La Peinture en Europe ; Florence. Lafenestre & Richt- 

enberger. (Also in English.) Scribner. 
Tuscan Cities, W. D. Howells. T. 
Italian Painters, G. Morelli (2 vols.). Murray. 
Histoire de I'Art Pendant la Renaissance, Italic (3 vols.), 

E. Miintz. 
Leonard da Vinci, E. Miintz. 
Tuscan Republics, Bella Duffy. Putnam. 
The Story of Perugia, M. Symonds and L. Duff Gordon. 

Macmillan. 
*Roman History, Dr. Julius Koch. Macmillan. 
Pagan and Christian Rome, R. Lanciani. Houghton & 

Mifflin. 
Ruins and Excavations of Ancient Rome, R. Lanciani. 

Houghton & Mifflin. 
*Destruction of Ancient Rome, R. Lanciani. Macmillan. 
Manual of Roman Antiquities, Ramsay and Lanciani. 

Macmillan. 



ITALY 245 

Handbook to Christian and Ecclesiastical Rome, H. M. 

and M. A. R. T. Adam Black. 
*Part I. The Christian Monuments. Part II. The 
Liturgy. Part III. Monasticism in Rome. Part 
IV. Ecclesiastical Rome. 
Musees de Rome, Plelbig. Baedeker. 
Rome of To-day and Yesterday, J. T. Dennie. Putnam. 
The Makers of Modern Rome, Mrs. Oliphant. Macmillan. 
*Ave Roma Immortalis, Studies from the Chronicles of 

Rome, F. Marion Crawford. Macmillan. 
Roba di Roma (2 vols.), W. W. Story. Chapman & 

Hall. 
The Tragedy of the Caesars, S. Baring Gould. Scribner. 
Promenades dans Rome, De Stendhal. 
Rome, Arthur Gilman. Putnam. 
Pilgrimage of the Tiber, W. Davies. Sampson Low. 
*Promenades Archeologiques, Rome et Pompeii. G. 

G. Boissier. (Also in English.) Putnam. 
* Walks in Rome, Augustus J. C. Hare. Macmillan. 
*Days near Rome, Augustus J. C. Hare. Macmillan. 
Pompeii, Its Life and Art, A. Mau. Macmillan. 
*Cities of Southern Italy and Sicily, Augustus J. C. Hare. 
Wander j ah re in Italien (4 vols.), F. Gregorovius. 
Die Insel Capri, F. Gregorovious. 
Picturesque Sicily, W. A. Paton. Harper. 
Diary of an Idle Woman in Sicily, Mrs. Elliot. T. 
Pictures from Sicily, W. N. Bartlett. T. Nelson & Sons. 
Sicily, E. A. Freeman. Putnam. 
Naples in the Nineties, E. Neville-Rolfe. Macmillan. 
Stories of Naples and the Camorra, Charles Grant. 

Macmillan. 
Modern Italy, Pietro Orsi. Putnam. 



246 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 

A FEW NOVELS 

First Century 

The Gladiators Whyte Melville. T. 

Quo Vadis H. Sienkiewicz. T. 

The Burning of Rome A. J. Church. 

Last Days of Pompeii Bulwer Lytton. T. 

Second Century 
Valerius J. G. Lockhart. 

Third Century 
Callista Cardinal Newman. T. 

Fourth Century 
Homo Sum Georg Ebers. 

Fifth Century 
Fabiola Cardinal Wiseman. 

Sixth Century 

Antonina, or the Fall of Rome . Wilkie Collins. T. 

Belisaire J. F. Marmontel. 

Ein Kampf um Rom Felix Dahn. 

Fourteenth Century 

Marco Visconti (also in English) . . Tommaso Grossi. 
Rienzi Bulwer Lytton. T. 

Fifteenth Century 

Ettore Fieramosca (also in English) Massimo d' Azeglio. 

Komola George Eliot. T. 

Isabella Orsini (also in English) . Francesco Guerrazzi. 



ITALY 247 

Sixteenth Century 
Beatrice Cenci (also in English) . Francesco Guerrazzi. 

Catherine de' Medici T. A. Trollope. 

Die Schlacht von Marignano . . Karl von Witzleben. 

Seventeenth Century 
I Promessi Sposi (also in English) . Alessandro Manzoni 

Nineteenth Century 

Doctor Antonio Giovanni Ruffini. T. 

Mademoiselli Mori (Rome) . . Margaret Roberts. T. 

A Roman Singer F. Marion Crawford. T. 

Pascarel (Florence) Ouida. T. 

A Foregone Conclusion (Venice) . W. D. Howells. T. 
Transformation (The Marble Faun) 

Nathaniel Hawthorne. T. 
Adam Johnstone's Son (Amalfi) 

F. Marion Crawford. T. 

Children of the King (Sorrento) F. Marion Crawford. T. 

In Maremma (Tuscany) Ouida. T. 



SOME TERMS USED DIFFERENTLY IN AMERICA 
AND IN ENGLAND 



American 


English 


Baggage. 


Luggage. 


Baggage car. 


Luggage van. 


Car (railroad). 


Carriage. 


Cars. 


Train. 


Conductor. 


Guard. 


Depot. 


Station. 


Engineer. 


Engine driver. 


Freight train. 


Goods train. 


Locomotive. 


Engine. 


On board a train. 


In a train. 


Railroad. 


Railway. 


Rails. 


Metals. 


Side-track. 


Siding. 


Switchman. 


Pointsman. 


The railroad track. 


The line. 


Ticket office. 


Booking oflBce. 


Ties. 


Sleepers. 


To switch. 


To shunt. 


Way or accommodation train. 


Slow or Parliamentary train. 


Alcohol. 


Spirits of wine. 


Bedspread. 


Counterpane, coverlet. 


Board fence. 


Hoarding. 


Bowl. 


Basin. 


Bug. 


Bed-bug only. 


Bureau. 


Chest of drawers. 


Parlour. 


Drawing-room. 



249 



250 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 



Piazza. 
Pitcher 

Window-shade. 
Yard (ground in front of 
house). 

Calico. 

Hardware. 

Muslin. 

Notions. 

Dry goods. 

Store. 

Spool (of cotton). 

Druggist, apothecary. 

Drummer. 

Lawyer. 



Veranda. 
Jug, ewer. 
Blind. 
Garden, lawn. 



Print. 
Ironmongery. 

Cotton cloth. 

Haberdashery. 

Drapery. 

Shop. 

Reel. 

Chemist. 

Commercial traveller. 

Solicitor, barrister. 



Check-rein. 
Hack, hackman. 
Horse-car. 
Lines. 

Span (of horses). 
Stage (a vehicle) . 
Waggon (except 
work). 



for heavy 



Chickens (when full grown). 

Corn. 

Cracker. 

Hash. 

Pie. 



Rare (in cooking). 



Bearing-rein. 

Cab, cabby. 

Tram. 

Reins. 

A pair. 

Omnibus. 

Carriage, cart, trap. 

Hens, fowls. 

Indian corn, maize. i 

Biscuit. 

Mince. 

Generally used for meat pies, 
or cherry or apple. A pie 
must have a covered top 
of pastry — most fruit pies 
are called tarts. 

Underdone. 



1 The word " corn " in England usually means wheat. 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 



251 



Dessert. 


Only fruit, nuts, etc. 


Dining-room (inliotels). 


Coffee-room. 


Lunch. 


Luncheon, used only for a 




meal in the middle of the 




day. 


A reception. 


An "At Home." 


Corsets. 


Stays. 


Derby (hat). 


Billy-cock, pot hat. 


Dress. 


Frock or gown (frock for day 




time, gown for evening). 


Fleshy. 


Stout, fat. 


Prince Albert coat. 


Frock coat. 


Shirt-waist. 


Blouse. 


Sacque. 


Jacket. 


Silk hat. 


Tall hat. 


To rip. 


To unpick. 


Vest. 


Waistcoat. 


Waist (of a gown). 


Bodice, body. 


Chambermaid (except in 


Housemaid. 


hotels) . 




Laundress. 


Washerwoman. 


Second man. 


Footman. 


Scrubwoman. 


Charwoman. 


Waiter (except in hotels). 


Butler. 


Waitress. 


Parlourmaid. 


Back of (as of a house). 


Behind. 


Balance (of time, etc.). 


Remainder. 


Cane. 


Walking-stick. 


Check. 


Cheque. 


Dirt (garden mould). 


Earth, soil. 


Editorial. 


Leader. 


Elevator. 


Lift. 



252 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 



Gripsack. 


Travelling-bag. 


Kerosene. 


Paraffin. 


Lot (of land). 


Plot. 


Lumber. 


Timber. 


Mat (of a photograph). 


Mount. 


Mucilage. 


Liquid gum, gum. 


Propeller. 


Screw. 


Rock. 


Only a very large stone, 




boulder. 


Rooster. 


Cock. 


Rubbers, arctics. 


Overshoes, goloshes. 


Side-wheel. 


Paddle. 


Smoke-stack. 


Funnel. 


Sorrel (horse). 


Chestnut. 


Telegraph blank. 


Telegraph form. 


Vine. 


Grape-vine only. Other 




creeping plants are " creep- 




ers." 


Guess. 


Only used as for guessing 




riddles or puzzles; never 




as "I suppose." 


Fix. 


Arrange, settle, see to. 


To hunt. 


Only riding to hounds — 




never shooting. 


Mad. 


Angry. 


Right away. 


Directly. 


Shortage. 


Deficiency. 


Sick (except for nausea). 


111. 


To mail. 


To post. 


To presume. 


To suppose, surmise. 


To ride. 


Used only for riding a 




bicycle or on an animal. 


To run a business. 


To manage, carry on. 


To ship. 


To send by land as well as 




by sea. 


Wilt. 


Wither, fade. 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 



253 



FRENCH WORDS SOMETIMES MISTRANSLATED i 



Agr§ment. Pleasure, enjoyment. Never an agreement 

in the English sense. 

Amusant. Interesting. Often wrongly translated 

amusing. 

AnimaL Not necessarily a quadruped. Birds, rep- 

tiles, etc., are " des animaux " in French. 

Apologie. A vindication, a justification of one's acts. 

It never means an apology in the modern 
English sense. 

Appointement. The salary of an employ^. Never a ren- 
dezvous or engagement. 

Assister. Means to be present at, as well as to help. 

Avis. Not advice, but opinion. Also a public 

notice or warning, or the prefatory 
note to a book. 

Braye. Honest, worthy, good-hearted. Not neces- 

sarily courageous. 

Bureau. An office for the transaction of business. 

Never a chest of drawers. 

Caution. A bail bond. Never used to signify cir- 

cumspection or foresight. 

Cit6. Not a city as we understand the word, but 

some central part of a town, originally 
fortified. The "City" of London is 
used in the French sense. It also 
often means a large court with houses 
around it. 

Controle. A record or verification. The verb "con- 

trSler " means to verify a cheque or 
record. 

iMost of these definitions were made by Mr. i^'rederick Keppel. 



254 



EUROPEAN TPwAVEL FOR WOMEN 



Courtier. A broker, not a frequenter of royalty. The 

latter is "un courtisan." 

Defense. A formal interdiction or prohibition. Rarely 

the defending of anything. 

Defiance. Suspicion. 

Defiant. Suspicious. 

Document. Any record. A sketch for some detail of a 
picture is a "document." 

Editeur. A publisher. Never an editor in the English 

sense. The French word for the latter is 
*' rMacteur." 

Enerv6. Nervous, not enervated. 

Hommage. Often used to characterize any gift or present 
given to an equal. It has no suggestion 
of lord and yassal, as homage has in 
English. 

Juste. Not so much just as scanty, barely sufficient. 

It is also the term to describe music which 
is in tune. 

Large. Broad only, not big in general. 

Lecture. The art of reading. Never a lecture in the 

English sense. The latter is "una con- 
ference." 

Maniaque. Not an insane person, but one who is un- 
reasonably particular and crotchety. 

Mignonette. Pepper ground coarse ; also a very fine kind 
of lace. The flower is in French called 
"r^s^da." 

Misdre. Extreme poverty only. The word does not 

describe other sorts of misery. 

Monument Any notable edifice. A cathedral, palace, or 
fine bridge is a "monument." 

Office. (As a masculine noun.) A religious cere- 

mony. Never a place for the transaction 
of business. 

Office. As a feminine noun.) A room to contain 

table utensils and eatables, a pantry. 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 



255 



Parent. Any blood relation. In France a second 

cousin is a "parent" as much as a 

father or mother. 
Partition. A full musical score with all the parts. 

Never a slight division between two 

spaces. 
Pr6tendre. To assert formally. To claim as a right. 

It never means to simulate. 
Romance. A short song set to music. Never a work 

of fiction. 
Sauvage. (As an adjective.) Not savage, but simply 

wild, shy, unsociable. Any animal or 

plant in its wild state is *' sauvage." 
Sinistre. (As a noun. ) A great disaster, such as a 

conflagration or an explosion. The 

word has no suggestion of wickedness. 
Spirituel. (As an adjective.) Witty, intellectually 

delicate and expert. It can rarely be 

translated spiritual. 
Vacation. The time occupied by some public function. 

It never means a holiday. 
Vilain. (Adjective.) Ugly, unsightly. There is no 

suggestion of villany. 



256 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 



COMPARISON OF RifeAUMUR, 
FAHRENHEIT AND CENTI- 
GRADE THERMOMETERS 

I. To reduce Reaumur degrees to 
Fahrenheit, — 

1. Multiply the number of Reaumur 
degrees by 9. 

2. Divide the product by 4. 

3. Add 32°. 

The result is the corresponding num- 
ber of Fahrenheit degrees. 

Example. — The Reaumur ther- 
mometer reads 8°. 

8 X 9 = 72 ; ^ = 18 ; 18 + 32 = 60. 
4 

That is, 8° R. = 50° F. 

II. To reduce Centigrade degrees to 
Fahrenheit, — 

1. Multiply the number of Centigrade 
degrees by 9. 

2. Divide the product by 5. 

3. Add 32°. 

The result is the corresponding num- 
ber of Fahrenheit degrees. 



Example. — The Centigrade ther- 
mometer reads 10°. 

9 X 10 = 90 ; '^ = 18 ; 18 + 32 = 50. 
That is, 10° C. = 50° F. 



EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 257 



MEASURES 



Continental 



American 



1 metre 

1 centimetre 



39 inches 

rather less than 

half an inch 
f of a mile, so that, 

roughly speaking, 

2 kilometres are 

l\ miles 

I trifle over 2 

pounds 

The "metre" and "gramme" are 
rarely added, being supposed to be 
understood. If you are told that a 
place is "5 kilos away" you may 
know it is about 3 miles — if you 
want to buy a pound of fruit, you 
ask for ** un demi-kilo." 



1 kilometre = 



1 kilogramme = j 



CENTIMETRES INCHES 



258 EUROPEAN TRAVEL FOR WOMEN 



FOREIGN PRONUNCIATION 

In French no syllable of a word is strongly accented; 
the accents modify the pronunciation of the vowel over 
which they are placed. 

The general rule in Italian is that the accent comes on 
the syllable before the last, and remains there, even if a pro- 
noun is affixed; for instance, "eat" is "mangidte," and 
"eat it" is "mangiatelo." To this rule there are, however, 
many exceptions, and a beginner must listen attentively. 

In German the accent is usually on the first syllable as 
in English. In French and Italian " i " is never pronounced 
as with us as in "wine," but more or less like "ee" in 
"reed," Besides the "ee" sound, the Germans have a 
short "i" like ours in "hinder." In Italian, "c" before 
consonants, and before "a," "o," and "u," is pronounced 
as with us as in "cart" ; before "e" and "i" it sounds 
somewhat like " ch " in " cherry." 



260 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



At the Custom House 

1. We are ladies travelling 

for pleasure. 

2. We have nothing to de- 

clare. 



A la Douane 

1. Nous sommes des dames 

qui faisons un voyage 
d'agr^ment. 

2. Nous n'avons rien h de- 

clarer. 



At a Hotel 

3. We should like to see 

the rooms. 

4. Are these the only rooms 

that are vacant ? 

5. Bring me some hot 

water. 

6. Bring me some more 

towels. 

7. This is dirty. 

8. Bring me a sitz-bath 

every morning at 
seven o'clock. 

9. Show us the ladies' 

toilet room. 

10. Have the fire lighted in 

the sitting-room. 

11. Have the clothes brushed 

and our boots cleaned 
every morning. 



A VHotel 
3. Voyons les chambres. 



4. 



5. 



10. 



11. 



Sont-ce les seules dispo- 

nibles ? 
Apportez-moi de I'eau 

chaude. 
Apportez-moi des essuie- 

mains. 
Celui-ci n'est pas propre. 
II me faut un bain de 

si6ge tons les matins h 

sept heures. 
Ou est le cabinet pour 

dames ? 
Faites allumer du feu au 

salon. 
Nos v§tements devront 

etre bross^s et nos 

chaussures nettoy^es 

chaque matin. 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



261 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



Alia Dogana 

1. Siamo signore che viag- 
giamo per piacere. 



Am Tollamt 

1. Wir reisen zum Vergntl- 
gen. 



2. Non abbiamo niente da 
dichiarare. 



2. Wir haben nichts Ver- 
zoUbares. 



10. 



11. 



AlV Albergo 

Vogliamo vedere le ca- 

mere. 
Sono queste le sole ca- 

mere libere ? 
Portatemi dell' acqua 

calda. 
Portatemi qualche altri 

asciugamani. 
Questo 6 sporco. 
Portatemi il semicupio 

ogni mattina alle sette. 

Dove 6 la ritirata per le 

signore ? 
Fatte accendere il f uoco 

nel salotto. 
Fatte spazzare i panni e 

pulire le scarpe ogni 

mattina. 



9. 



10. 



11. 



Im Gasthof 

Wir mocliten die Zim- 

mer sehen. 
Sind alle andern Zimmer 

besetzt ? 
Holen Sie mir heisses 

Wasser. 
Bringen Sie mir noch 

einige Handtiicher. 
Dieses da ist schmutzig. 
Besorgen Sie mir jeden 

Morgen um sieben 

Uhr ein Sitzbad. 
Fiihren Sie uns zum 

Damen-Kabinett. 
Lassen Sie im Wohnzim- 

mer Feuer anmachen. 
Lassen Sie jeden Morgen 

die Kleider biirsten 

und die Stief el putzen. 



262 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



12. Bring rae a large can of 
cold water. 



12. 



Apportez-moi un grand 
bidon d'eau froide. 



13. A pail. 

14. Matches. 



13. 
14. 



Un seau. 

Des allumettes. 



15. Wax matches. 

16. Please send for a lock- 

smith. 

17. I have lost the key of 

my trunk. 

18. Must you break the lock 

open ? 

19. I can't turn the key. 

20. What time is the table 

d'hdte ? 



15. Des allumettes de cire. 

16. Faites venir un serrurier. 

17. J'ai perdu la cl6 de ma 

malle. 

18. Faudra-t-il forcer la ser- 

rure ? 

19. Je ne puis faire tourner 

la cl^. 

20. A quelle heure est la 

table d'hCte ? 



21. We shall take our meals 21. 

at the table d'h6te. 

22. Please keep us three 22. 

places. 

23. We should like a little 23. 

table for ourselves. 



24. 



25. 



26. 



27. 
28. 



We should like to have 
our meals in our 
rooms. 

Bring me a " caf 6 com- 
plet " (coffee, hot milk, 
and bread and butter) . 

Bring me two eggs, and 
let them be boiled four 
minutes. 

Soft-boiled eggs. 

Hard-boiled eggs. 



Nous prendrons nos re- 
pas k table d'hCte. 

R6seryez-nous trois 
places. 

Nous aimerions une pe- 
tite table particuli6re. 



24. Nous prendrons nos re- 

pas dans notre apparte- 
ment. 

25. Apportez-moi un caf6 

complet. 

26. Apportez-moi deux oeufs 

k la coque cuits quatre 
minutes. 

27. Des oeufs k la coque. 

28. Des ceufs durs. 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



263 



12. 


Portatemi un bocale d' 


12. 




acqua fredda. 




13. 


Una secchia. 


13. 


U. 


Fiaminiferi. 


14. 


15. 


Cerini. 


15. 


16. 


Fate venire il chiavaro. 


16. 



17. Ho perduto la chiave del 17. 

mio baule. 

18. Si deve rompere la serra- 18. 

tura ? 

19. La chiave non gira. 19. 

20. A che ora 6 la tavola 20. 

rotonda ? 

21. Mangeremo alia tavola 21. 

rotonda. 

22. Riservateci tre posti. 22. 

23. Vorremmo una piccola 23. 

tavola separata. 

24. Vogliamo mangiare in 24, 

camera. 

25. Portatemi un caffe com- 25. 

pleto. 



Bringen Sie mir eine 

grosse Kanne kalten 

Wassers. 
Ein Eimer. 
Streichholzer (Ztindhol- 

zer, Schwefelholzer). 
Wachsztindholzer. 
Bitte, lassen Sie einen 

Schlosser holen. 
Ich habe den Schliissel 

zu meinem Koffer ver- 

loren. 
Miissen Sie das Schloss 

aufbrechen ? 
Ich kann den Schliissel 

nicht umdrehen. 
Um wie viel Uhr speist 

man an der Wirtstafel 

(table d'hdte)? 
Wir werden an der 

Wirtstafel speisen. 
Bitte, reserviren Sie uns 

drei Gedecke. 
Konnen wir wohl einen 

kleinen Tisch f iir uns 

haben ? 
Serviren Sie uns die 

Mahlzeiten auf dem 

Zimmer. 
Bringen Sie mir einen 

" caf6 complet." 



26. 



27. 
28. 



Portatemi due uova da 
bere, e che sianobolliti 
quattro minuti. 

Uova da bere. 

Uova tosti. 



26. 



27. 

28. 



Bringen Sie mir zwei 
Eier ; sie miissen vier 
Minuten kochen. 

Weichgesottene Eier. 

Hartgesottene Eier. 



264 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



29. Fried eggs. 

30. Stirred eggs. 

31. In the morningf or break- 

fast we want coffee and 
boiled milk for one — 
tea with cream for one 
— chocolate for one. 



29. Des oeufs frits. 

30. Des oeufs brouillds. 

31. Le matin, pour dejeuner 

nous desirous un caf6 
au lait, — un th6 k la 
creme, — un chocolat. 



32. Also butter — rolls — 32. Avec beurre — petits 
crescents — toast — pains — croissants — 

rusks. roties — biscuits. 



33. I want to have some 

clothes washed, 

34. Do not put any starch. 



33. Je desire faire laver du 

linge. 

34. N'amidonnez pas. 



35. Please put very little 

starch in the under- 
clothes, 

36. Starch the collars and 

cuffs a good deal. 



35. Amidonnez fort pen. 



). Empesez bien les cols 
et manchettes. 



37. The clothes must be back 
on Tuesday evening 
without fail. 



37. Rapportez tout le linge 
mardi soir, sans f aute. 



Leaving a Hotel 

38. We wish to be called at 38. 

six o'clock. 

39. We leave for at 39. 

eight. 

40. When does the omnibus 40. 

leave the hotel ? 



En quittant Vhotel 

Je desire qu'on nous 
^veille k six heures. 

Nous partons pour 

a huit heures. 

A quelle heure 1' omnibus 
part-il ? 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



265 



29. Uova al piatto. 

30. Uova brouilUs. 

31. La mattina prendiamo 

il caff6 latte per uno 
— the con crema per 
uno — cioccolata per 
uno. 



32. Anche del burro — dei 

panetti — chif ali — 
pane abbruscato — 
zwieback. 

33. Ho della biancheria da 

far lavare. 

34. Prego non mettere af- 

fatto amido. 

35. Prego mettere pochis- 

simo amido nelle 
vesti. 

36. Mettete abbastanza 

amido nei colli e nei 
polsi. 

37. La biancheria deve es- 

sere qui martedi sera 
immancabilmente. 



29. Spiegeleier. 

30. Riihrei. 

31. Des Morgens zum Friih- 

sttick wiinschen wir 
eine Portion Kaffee 
mitgekochter Milch — 
eine Portion Thee mit 
Rahm (Sahne) — eine 
Portion Chocolade. 

32. Dazu Butter und Brod- 

chen (Wecken), — 
Hornchen, — gerostete 
Brodschnitten, — 
Zwieback. 

33. Ich mochte meine 

Wasche besorgt haben. 

34. Starken Sie die Wasche 

nicht. 

35. Thun Sie nur ein bischen 

Starke hinein. 

36. Starken Sie die Kragen 

undManschetten recht 
steif. 

37. Dienstag Abend miissen 

Sie uns die Wasche 
wiederbringen, aber 
ohne Fehl. 



Partenza dalV Alhergo 



38. Vogliamo essere chi- 

amate alle sei. 

39. Partiamo per - 

otto. 

40. A che ora parte V omni- 

bus ? 



Beim Verlassen des Hotels 
38. 



Lassen Sie uns um sechs 
Uhr wecken, 
alle 39. Um acht Uhr reisen wir 

nach ab. 

40. Wann fahrt der Omni- 
bus (Kremser) weg ? 



266 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



41. When must we have the 41. Quand faut-il que les 

luggage ready ? bagages soient prets ? 

42. These pieces are to be 42. II faut faire enr^gistrer 

registered. ces colis. 

43. We will take these with 43. Nous emporterons ceux- 

us in the carriage. ci dans la voiture. 

44. We should like to have 44. Nous voudrions la note. 

our bill. 

45. I find it not unreasona- 45. C'est assez raisonnable. 

ble. 

46. I should like change for 46. Je voudrais la monnaie 

ten francs. de dix francs. 



Cdba 



Fiacres 



47. 

48. 



Cabby ! 

Go to the Hotel 



47. Cocher ! 

48. APHotel 



49. I will take you by the 

hour. 

50. Show me your tariff. 

51. It is now ten o'clock. 

52. Go on ! 



49. Je vous prends k I'heure. 

50. Montrez moi le tarif. 
61. II est dix heures juste. 
52. Allez! 



53. 


Stop here ! 


53. 


Arretez ici ! 


54. 


Drive to the Park (pub- 
lic gardens). 


54. 


Allez au pare. 


55. 


Is it near ? 


65. 


Est-ce pr6s d'ici ? 


56. 


Is it far ? 


66. 


Est-ce loin ? 


57. 


How far is it to ? 


57. 


A quelle distance est ? 


58. 


Take us where there is 


58. 


Ou a-t-on la plus belle 




the best view. 




vue? 


59. 


Go slowly ! 


59. 


Allez lentement ! 


60. 


Go quickly ! 


60. 


Allez vite ! 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



267 



41. A che ora deve essere 41. 

pronto il bagaglio ? 

42. Questi pezzi si devono 42. 

spedire. 

43. Prendiamo questi nel va- 43. 

gone. 

44. Vogliamo il conto. 44. 

45. Mi pare giusto. 45. 



Wann wird das Gepack 

abgeholt ? 
Dieses Gepack soil ein- 

geschreiben werden. 
Dieses behalten wir bei 

uns, im Eisenbahn 

wagen. 
Bringen Sie uns die 

Reclinung. 
Icli finde Sie uicht un- 









massig. 


46. 


Vorrei denarl spied per 


46. 


Konnen Sie mir zebn 




died lire. 




Franken wechseln ? 




In Carrozza 




Droschken (Fiaker) 


47. 


Cocchiere ! 


47. 


Kutscher ! 


48. 


AH' albergo . 


48. 


Fahren Sie nach dem 
Gasthof . 


49. 


Air era. 


49. 


Ich nehme den Wagen 
per Stunde. 


50. 


Mostratemi la tarifa. 


50. 


Zeigen Sie mir den Tarif. 


61. 


Sono le died. 


51. 


Jetzt ist es zehn Uhr. 


62. 


Avanti ! 


52. 


Fahren Sie zu ! (Vor- 
warts ! — Weiter ! ) 


63. 


Fermate qui ! 


53. 


Halten Sie hier ! 


64. 


Ai giardini pubblici. 


54. 


Fahren Sie uns in den 
Park — in die Anla- 
gen. 


66. 


E vicino ? 


55. 


Ist es in der Nahe ? 


66. 


E lontano ? 


66. 


Ist es weit ? 


67. 


Quanto h lontano ? 


57. 


Wie weitistesnach ? 


68. 


Portateci dove c' b la 


58. 


Wo hat man die schonste 




piu bella veduta. 




Aussicht ? 


59. 


Piano, piano ! 


59. 


Fahren Sie langsam ! 


60. 


Presto I 


60. 


Fahren Sie geschwind ! 



268 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



61. If you treat your horse 61. Si vous ne maltraitez 

well, I will give you pas votre clieval, vous 

a good tip. aurez un bon pour- 

boire. 

62, If you abuse your horse, 62. Si vous maltraitez votre 

I will not give you cheval, vous n'aurez 

anything. pas de pourboire. 



63. Better go slowly, rather 63. Allez doucement, plutCt 



than hurt your horse. 



que d'6reinter votre 
cheval. 



64. There is no hurry. 

65. I will not take your cab, 

because your horse is 
lame. 



64. Nous ne sommes pas 

press^es. 

65. Votre cheval boite, je ne 

vous prends pas. 



66. Can one get refresh- 66. Peut-onserafraichirici? 
ments near here? 



67. Is there a dairy here ? 

68. Can we have some milk ? 



67. Y a-t-il une cr^merie 

tout pr6s ? 

68. Peut-on avoir du lait ? 



69. Take a glass of wine to 
the coachman. 



I. Donnez un verre de vin 
au cocher. 



70. Stop a moment 



70. Arretez un instant ! 



71. Turn round and go back 71. Retournez k I'hOtel. 

to the hotel. 

72. Here is your tip. 72. Voici votre pourboire. 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



269 



61. Se trattate bene il ca- 

vallo, vi daro un bel 
regalo. 

62. Se maltrattate il cavallo, 

non vi dar6 niente. 



63. Piuttosto andare piano 

die bastonare 11 ca- 
vallo. 

64. Senza fretta ! 

65. Non vi prendo, perch6 il 
" cavallo 6 zoppo. 

66. Si trovano qui vicino dei 

rinfrescbi ? 

67. C fe qui una latteria ? 

68. Si puo avere del latte ? 

69. Date un bicchiere di vino 

al cocchiere. 

70. Fermate un momentino ! 

71. Voltate e tornate all' al- 

bergo. 

72. Ecco per la buonamano. 



61. Wenn Sie Ihr Pferd gut 

behandeln, so bekom- 
men Sie ein gutes 
Trinkgeld. 

62. Wenn Sie das Pferd 

mishandeln,so bekom- 
men Sie gar nichts 
zum Trinkgeld. 

63. Mir ist es lieber Sie 

fabren langsam, als 
dass Sie dem Pferde 
schaden. 

64. Wir baben es nicbt eilig. 

65. Ihre Droschke nehme 

icb nicbt, denn Sie 
baben ja ein labmes 
Pferd. 

66. Kann man bier in der 

Nabe Erfrischungen 
baben ? 

67. Giebt es bier eine 

Meierei ? 

68. Konnen wir Milcb be- 

kommen ? 

69. Bringen Sie dem Kut- 

scher ein Glas Wein 
— ein Glas Bier.i 

70. Kutscber, halten Sie 

einen Augenblick ! 

71. Kebren Sie um, nacb 

dem Hotel zuriick. 

72. Da ist Ihr Trinkgeld. 



1 In Germany beer would be more probable than wine. 



270 



SOME USEFUL PHBASES 



At the Museum — the Pic- 
ture Gallery 

73. What is the entrance fee? 

(price of admission). 

74. How do you get to the 

Picture Gallery ? 



Au Musee — a la Galerie 

73. Combien faut-il payer 

P entree ? 

74. Par oil va-t-on h, la ga- 

lerie des tableaux ? 



75. In which division is the 75. Ou sont les salles de la 



antique sculpture 



sculpture antique 



76. I am looking for the 
famous statue of . 



76. Je cherche la fameuse 
statue de . 



77. Can we get a catalogue ? 77. Y a-t-il un catalogue ? 



78. On what days is the 

Museum open ? 

79. Is the admission free, or 

must one pay ? 

At the Station 

80. Is the train open yet ? 



78. A quels jours le Mus^e 

est-il ouvert ? 

79. L'entr^e est-elle libre, 

ou faut-il payer ? 

A la Gare 

80. Le train est-il prgt ? 



8L Is this the train for ? 81. Est-ce le train pour ? 

82. We want a carriage for 82. Nous ddsirons un com- 

ladies only. partiment pour dames 

seules. 

83. If you will reserve this 83. Si vous voulez bien nous 

r^server ce comparti- 
ment, je ne vous ou- 

blierai pas. 

84. From which track does 84. Le train part de quelle 

the train go ? voie ? 

86. We are going by the ex- 85. Nous allons par le train 

press train to . degrandevitesse^ . 

86. Train de luxe. 86. Train de luxe. 



carriage for us, I shall 
not forget you. 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



2T1 



Al Museo — alia Galleria 
73. Quanto h 1' entrata ? 



Im Museum — In der Bilder- 
sammlung 

73. WaskostetderEintritt? 



74. Per dove si va alia Gal- 

leria ? 

75. Dove sono le sculture 

antiche ? 

76. Cerco la celebre statua 

del . 

77. Si pii6 avere un cata- 

logo? 

78. In che giorni 6 aperto il 

Museo ? 

79. E libera V entrata, op- 

pure si paga ? 

Alia Stazione (Ferrovia) 

80. E aperto il treno ? 

81. E questo il treno 

per ? 

82. Vogliamo il comparti- 

mento per signore sole. 

83. Se ci riservate questa 

carrozza, non vi di- 
menticherb. 



74. Wie gelangt man zur 

Bilder-Gallerie ? 

75. Wo ist die Abtheilung 

fiir die antike Bild- 
hauerarbeit ? 

76. Ich suche die bertihmte 

Bildsaule (Statue) 
der . 

77. Ist ein Katalog zu 

haben ? 

78. An welchen Tagen ist 

das Museum offen ? 

79. Ist der Eintritt frei, oder 

muss man bezahlen ? 

Am Bahnhof 

80. Kann man schon ein- 

steigen ? 

81. Fahrt dieser Zug 

nach ? 

82. Wir suchen das Damen- 

Coup6. 

83. ReservirenSieunsdiesen 

Wagen, so soil es Ihr 
Schaden nicht sein. 



84. Da quale binario parte il 

treno ? 

85. Partiamo col diretto 

per . 

86. Treno di lusso. 



84. Auf welchem Geleise 

fahrt der Zug ? 

85. Wir fahren mit dem 

Schnellzug nach . 

86. Train de luxe. 



272 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



87. Time table. 

88. Steamer. 



87. Indicateur. 

88. Steamer — bateau k va- 

peur. 



At the Post Office 

89. Where is the Post Office ? 

90. Where can I register a 

letter ? 

91. I wish to register this 

letter. 

92. Where does one buy- 

stamps ? 

93. Is this letter over weight ? 



94. How long will it take a 
letter to go from here 
to ? 

96. I want five foreign post- 
age stamps. 

96. I want ten postage 

stamps for France — 
Italy — Germany. 

97. I want twenty foreign 

postal cards. 

98. I wish to send a postal 

packet. 

At the Telegraph Office 

99. Please give me a blank. 



A la Poste 

89. Oti est le bureau des 

postes ? 

90. Ou peut-on faire recom- 

mander une lettre ? 

91. Je desire recommander 

cette lettre. 

92. Ou se vendent les tim- 

bres-poste ? 

93. Cette lettre p6se-t-elle 

trop? 

94. Combien de temps une 

lettre met-elle pour 
arriver k ? 

95. Je dfeire cinq timbres 

pour r stranger. 

96. Donnez-moi dix timbres 

pour la France. 

97. Je voudrais vingt cartes- 

postales pour 1' stran- 
ger. 

98. Je desire expSdier un 

colis postal. 

Au Bureau du Telegraph 

99. Donnez-moi une forme, 

s'il vous plait. 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



273 



87. 


Orario. 


87. 


Der Fahrplan. 


88. 


" Piroscafo " or " va- 


88. 


Der Dampfer (di 




pore ' ' in time tables ; 




Dampfschiff). 




in conversation al- 








ways "vapore." 








Alia Posta 




Auf der Post 


89. 


Dov' 6 la Posta ? 


89. 


Wo ist das Postamt ? 



90. 



91. 



92. 



93. 



94 



Dove si raccomandono 

le lettere ? 
Vorrei raccomandare 

questa lettera. 
Dove si comprano fran- 

cobolli ? 
Questa lettera b doppia ? 



Quanto tempo mette una 
lettera per arrivare 
a ? 

95. Vorrei cinque franco- 

bolli per 1' estero. 

96. Vorrei dieci francobolli 

pel regno. 

97. Vorrei venti cartoline 

postali per 1' estero. 



90. Wo kann ich einen Brief 

einschreiben lassen ? 

91. Ich mochte diesen Brief 

einschreiben lassen. 

92. Wo bekommt man Brief - 

marken ? 

93. Ist an diesem Brief 

Ubergewicht zu be- 
zahlen ? 

94. Wie lange braucht ein 

Brief von hier nach ? 

95. Ich wiinsche flinf Brief- 

marken fiir's Aus- 
land. 

96. Ich wiinsche zehn Brief- 

marken fiir Deutsch- 
land. 

97. Ich wiinsche zehn Post- 

karten fiir's Ausland. 



98. Vorrei mandare 

pacco postale. 

Al Telegrafo 

99. Favorisca un modulo. 



98. 



Ich will dieses Packet 
mit der Post schicken. 



Auf dem Telegraphenamt 

99. Bitte, geben Sie mi: 
ein Formular. 



274 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



100. I wish to send a cable 
to America. 



100. Je desire cabler en 
Am^rique. 



101. 
102. 



Is it legible? 


101. 


Est-ce lisible ? 


Here is my card; if a 


102. 


Void ma carte ; s'il 


telegram should come 




m'arrive une d^peche 


for me, please send it 




envoy ez-la moi ^ cette 


to this address. 




adresse. 



Form of Telegram to engage 
Booms 



Formulede Telegramme pour 
retenir des chambres 



103. We shall arrive from 
Rome at 3 p.m. — 
9 A.M. — Wednesday. 
We wish three single 
rooms — one double 
and one single room — 
with a sitting-room. 
Madame A- 



103. Arriverons de Rome 
3 p.m. — 9 a.m. — mer- 
credi. R^servez trois 
chambres ^ un lit — 
une chambre k deux 
lits, et une ^ un lit — 
avec salon. 
Madame A B . 



At a Forwarding AgenVs 



Chez un Expediteur 



104. 


I should like to have 


104. 


Je desire faire exp^dier 




this parcel forwarded 




ce colis imm^diate- 




at once. 




ment. 


105. 


Fast freight. 


105. 


Grande-vitesse. 


106. 


Slow freight. 


106. 


Petite- Vitesse. 


107. 


The charges are to be 


107. 


Paiement contre rem- 




paid on arrival. 




boursement. 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



275 



100. Vorrei mandare un dis- 

paccio in America. 

101. E chiaro ? 

102. Vi consegno il mio bi- 

glietto, e prego che si 
mandino a questo in- 
dirizzo i dispacci che 
arriveranno per me. 



100. 



101. 
102. 



Ich moclite sine Kabel- 
depesche nachAmer- 
ika schicken. 

1st sie leserlich ? 

Sollte f iir mich ein Tele- 
gramm kommen, so 
schicken Sie es, bitte, 
nach der Adresse auf 
dieser Karte. 



Dispaccio per riservare Ca- 
mere 



Ein Muster- Telegramm urn 
Zimmer zu bestellen 



103. Arriviamo da Eoma 
alle 3 pom. — 9 ant. — 
mercoledi. Desideri- 
amo tre camere da un 
letto — una camera 
con due letti, ed una 
da un letto — con 
salotto. 
Madame A B . 



103. Wir kommen Mitt- 
woch, dreiUhrNach- 
mittags — neun Uhr 
Vormittags — aus 
Rom. Reserviren Sie 
uns drei einfache 
Zimmer — ein zwei- 
schlafriges, ein ein- 
fach.es Zimmer — 
nebst Wohnzimmer. 
Frau a B . 





Dallo Speditore 




Beim Spediteur 


104. 


Vorrei spedire subito 


104. 


Dieses Packet mochte 




questo pacco. 




ich sogleich bef drdert 
haben. 


105. 


Grande velocity. 


105. 


Als Eilgut. 


106. 


Piccola velocity. 


106. 


Als Fracht. 


107. 


Le spese da pagarsi in 


107. 


Die Gebiihren sind vom 




arrive. 




Empfanger zu ent- 
richten. 



276 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



At a Banker^ s Chez le Banquier 

108. I have a letter of credit 108. J'aiunelettre de change 

from . de . 

109. Is it all right ? 109. Est-elle en rfegle ? 

110. I shall have to trouble 110. J'ai encore quelque 

you still further. chose k vous de- 

mander. 

111. Where must I sign my 111. Oti faut-il signer ? 

name ? 



112 
113 
114 
115 

116 
117 
118 
119 
120 
121 



At a 8tationer''s Chez le Papetier 

I should like some let- 112. Je voudrais du papier 
ter paper. k lettres. 

I should like some 113. Je voudrais des enve- 
thicker envelopes. loppes plus ^paisses. 

I w^ant a bottle of ink. 114. J'ai besoin d'encre. 

I want a bottle of muci- 115. J'ai besoin de coUe. 
lage. 

I want some sealing- 116. J'ai besoin de cire k 
wax. cacheter. 

I want some blotting- 117. J'ai besoin de papier 
paper. buvard. 

I want some wrapping- 118. J'ai besoin de papier k 
paper. envelopper. 

I want some twine. 119. J'ai besoin de la ficelle. 

I want some steel pens. 120. J'ai besoin de plumes 

d'acier. 

I want some pencils. 121. J'ai besoin de crayons. 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



277 



Alia Banca 

108. Ho una lettera di cre- 

dito della casa , 

109. E in ordine ? 

110. La dovrd incommodare 

ancora. 



Beim Bankier 

108. Ich habe einen Credit- 

brief von . 

109. 1st Alias in Ordnung ? 

110. Ich muss Sie noch 

weiter bemiihen. 



111. Dove devo firmare ? 



111. Wo muss icli meinen 
Nam en unterzeich- 
nen? 



In una Cartoleria 

112. Vorrei della carta da 

lettere. 

113. Vorrei delle buste piu 

forti. 

114. Vorrei una bottiglia 

d' inchiostro. 

115. Vorrei una bottiglia di 

gomma. 

116. Vorrei della cera lacca. 

117. Vorrei della carta suga. 

118. Vorrei della carta per 

involtare. 

119. Vorrei dello spago. 

120. Vorrei delle penne 

d' acciajo. 

121. Vorrei dei lapis (same 

in singular and plu- 
ral). 



Beim Schreibmaterialien- 
hdndler 

112. Ich wtinsche Brief - 

papier. 

113. Ich wtinsche einige 

dickere Converts. 

114. Ich wtinsche Tinte. 

115. Ich wtinsche eine Lo- 

sung Gummi arabi- 
cum. 

116. Ich wtinsche Siegellack. 

117. Ich wtinsche etwas 

Losch-papier. 

118. Ich wtinsche Pack- 

papier. 

119. Ich wtinsche Bind- 

faden. 

120. Ich wtinsche einige 

Stahlfedern. 

121. Ich wtinsche Bleistifte. 



278 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



At a Dressmaker* s Chez la Couturiere 

122. Mrs. recommended 122. Madame, vous m'avez 

you to me. 6t6 recommand^e par 

Mme. . 

123. What patterns have 123. Quels modules avez- 

you ? vous ? 

124. This pleases me best. 124. Voici ce qui me plait le 

mieux. 

125. Will you take my meas- 125. Prenez mes mesures, 

ure ? s'il vous plait. 

126. Don't make the vi^aist 126. Ne me serrez pas trop 

too tight. la taille. 

127. When am I to try it 127. Quand pourrez-vous me 

on ? r essay er ? 

128. It is too tight across 128. Cela me gene k la poi- 

the chest. trine. 

129. The sleeve is too wide. 129. La manche est trop 

large. 

130. The waistband is too 130. La ceinture est trop 

loose. lache. 

131. Itistootightintheneck. 131. Le col est trop juste. 

132. Cut it out a little at 132. Echancrez un peu sous 

the armhole. les bras. 

133. The skirt is too long in 133. La jupe est trop longue 

front and too short par devant et trop 

behind. courte derri^re. 

134. The skirt does not hang 134. La jupe tombe mal. 

well. 

135. This is not straight. 135. Ce n'est pas droit. 

136. It is not in the middle. 136. Ce n'est pas au milieu. 

137. I must have a pocket. 137. II me faut une poche. 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



279 



Dalla Sarta 

122. La Signora C mi 

ha raccomandato 1^ 
vostra casa. 

123. Che campioni vi sono ? 

124. Preferisco questo. 

125. Volete prendere le 

misure ? 

126. Non mi fate la vita 

troppo stretta. 

127. Quando lo potr6 pro- 

vare? 

128. E troppo stretto sul 

petto. 

129. La manica e troppo 

larga. 

130. La cinta h troppo larga. 



Bei der Rleidermacherin 

122. Frau hat Sie mir 

empfohlen. 

123. Was ftir Muster haben 

Sie? 

124. Dieses gefallt mir am 

besten. 
126. Wollen Sie mir das 
Mass nehmen ? 

126. Machen Sie die Taille 

nicht zu eng. 

127. Wann soil ich zum 

Anprobiren kom- 
men ? 

128. Das spannt liber der 

Brust. 

129. Der Armel ist zu weit. 

130. Der Bund sitzt zu lose. 



131. E troppo stretto alcollo. 

132. Levatene un poco sotto 

le braccia. 

133. La veste 6 troppo lunga 

davanti, e troppo 
corta dietro. 

134. La veste non cade 

bene. 

135. Non sta dritto. 

136. Non sta in mezzo. 

137. Ci voglio una saccoccia 

(in Northern Italy, 

*'tasca"). 



131. Am Hals ist es zu fest. 

132. Schneiden Sie das Arm- 

loch noch ein wenig 
aus. 

133. Der Rock ist vorn zu 

lang und hinten zu 
kurz. 

134. Der Rock fallt nicht 

richtig. 

135. Dies sitzt schief . 

136. Dies ist nicht in der 

Mitte. 

137. Eine Tasche muss ich 

haben. 



280 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



138. That is more comfort- 138. 

able. 

139. When will my dress be 139. 

ready ? 

140. Send the bill at the 140. 

same time. 



C'est plus ais6 mainte- 

nant. 
Quand ma robe sera-t- 

elle pret a livrer ? 
Envoyez la facture en 

m§me temps. 



At a Milliner 

141. I am looking for a 141. 

simple hat to travel 
in. 

142. It is very pretty, but is 142. 

not becoming to me. 



Chez la Modiste 

Je desire trouver un 
chapeau de voyage 
fort simple. 

II est tr6s-joli mais il 
ne me va pas. 



143. 


It is too large. 


143. 


11 est trop grand. 


144. 


It is too small. 


144. 


11 est trop petit. 


145. 


This one is more be- 
coming. 


145. 


Celui-ci est plus seyant. 


146. 


What is the price of 


146. 


Quel est le prix de 




this one ? 




celui-ci ? 


147. 


That is too dear. 


147. 


C'est trop Cher. 


148. 


What do you ask to 


148. 


Combien me deman- 




make a hat to order ? 




derez-vous pour m'en 
faire un sur com- 
mande ? 



In a Shop 

149. I should like some 
black cotton stock- 
ings. 

160. These are not fine 
enough. 

151. How much a pair do 

they cost ? 

152. That is too much. 



Dans ?m Magasin 

149. Faites-moi voir des bas 

de coton noirs, s'il 
vous plait. 

150. Ceux-ci ne sont pas 

assez fins. 

151. Combien la paire ? 

152. C'est trop. 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



281 



138. Cosi 6 piu commodo. 



138. Das ist bequemer. 



139. Quando sar^ pronto il 

costume ? 

140. Mandate il conto insi- 

eme colla roba. 



139. Wann wird mein Kleid 

fertig sein ? 

140. Schicken Sie die Rech- 

nung gleich mit. 



Dalla Modista 

141. Cerco un cappello sem- 
plice per viaggio. 



Bei der Putzhdndlerin 

141. Ich suche einen ein- 
fachen Reisehut. 



142. E grazioso, ma non mi 

sta bene. 

143. E troppo grande. 

144. E troppo piccolo. 

145. Questo mi sta meglio. 



142. Er ist selir htibsch, 

kleidet raich aber 
nicht. 

143. Er ist za gross. 

144. Er ist zu klein. 

145. Dieser steht mir besser. 



146. Quanto costa questo 



146. Was kostet dieser ? 



147. E troppo caro. 147. Das ist zu theuer. 

148. Quanto domandereste 148. Was verlangen Sie 

per farmi un cappello wenn Sie einen Hut 

apposta? auf Bestellung 

machen ? 



In un Negozio 



In einem Laden 



149. Vorrei delle calze nere 149, Bitte, zeigen Sie miv 

di cotone. schwarze baumwol- 

lene Striimpfe. 

150. Non sono abbastanza 150. Diese sind nicht fein 

fine. genug. 

151. Quanto costano il paio ? 151. Was kostet das Paar ? 



152. E troppo. 



162. Das ist zu viel. 



282 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



153. I will not give you any 

more. 

154. I'll look for them else- 

where first. 

155. Have you narrow white 

ribbon ? 

156. This is just what I 

want. 

157. I do not really want it. 

158. I should like some ma- 

terial for veils. 

159. What is the price of your 

white kid gloves ? 

160. Four button length. 

161. Velvet. 

162. Satin. 

163. I should like some 

needles and pins, 
thread and darning 
cotton, also a thim- 
ble and a pair of 
scissors, buttons, and 
braid. 



153. Je ne veux pas donner 

'davantage. 

154. Je vais chercher ail- 

leurs avant de me de- 
cider. 

155. Avez-vous du ruban 

blanc dtroit ? 

156. Voil^ juste ce quUl une 

faut. 

157. De fait, je n'en ai pas 

besoin. 

158. Je voudrais du tulle k 

voilettes. 

159. Quel est le prix de vos 

gants de chevreau 
blancs ? 

160. A quatre boutons. 

161. Velours. 

162. Satin. 

163. J'ai besoin d'aiguilles 

et d'^pingles, de fil 
et de coton k repri- 
ser, ainsi que d'un 
d6, de ciseaux, de 
boutons et de tresse 
de laine. 



At a Doctor^ s Office 

164. Does Dr. F. live here ? 

165. At what time are his 

office hours ? 

166. Which is the waiting 

room ? 

167. Do you think he will 

come soon ? 



Chez le Medecin 

164. Est-ce ici que demeure 

le docteur F. ? 

165. Quelles sont ses heures 

de consultations ? 

166. Oti est le salon d'attente? 

167. L'attendez-vous bien- 

tot? 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



283 



163. Non vi dar6 di piu. 



153. Ich gebe nicht mehr. 



154. Cercher6 in un altro 154. Icli will erst anderswo 
negozio. suchen. 



155. Avete del nastro bianco 155. 

stretto ? 

156. E proprio questo che 156. 

cercavo. 

157. Veramente, non mi 157. 

serve. 

158. Vorrei della stoffa per 158. 

veli. 

159. Quanto costano guanti 159. 

bianchi ? 



Haben Sie schmales 

weisses Band ? 
Das ist ganz genau was 

ich brauche. 
Eigentlich habe ich es 

nicht nothig. 
Ich wiinsche Schleier- 

stoffe. 
Was kosten die weissen 

Glac^-Handschuhe ? 



1. Da quattro bottoni. 


160. 


Mit vier Knopfen. 


.. Veluto. 


161. 


Der Samt (Sammet). 


!. Raso. 


162. 


Der Atlas. 


t. Vorrei degli aghi e 


163. 


Ich wiinsche Nahnadeln 


delle spille, filo e 




und Stecknadeln, 


cotone da cucire, 




ZwirnundStopfgarn ; 


anche un ditale ed 




dazu einen Fingerhut 


un paio di forbici, 




und eine Schere, 


bottoni e zagana. 




nopfe und Litze. 


Dal Medico 




Beim Arzt 



164. Abita qui 11 Dottore 

F. ? 

165. Quali sono le ore di 

consultazione ? 

166. Dove devo aspettare ? 



167. Credete che 
presto ? 



venga 



164. Wohnt hier der Doktor 

F. ? 

165. Wann hat er seine 

Sprechstunde ? 

166. Wo ist das Wartezim- 

mer ? 

167. Sie uieinen er kame 

gleich ? 



284 

168. I can't wait any longer. 

169. Here is my card; say 

that I beg him to 
call as soon as possi- 
ble at the Hotel . 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



168. Je ne puis attendre plus 

longtemps. 

169. Voici ma carte ; dites- 

lui de passer chez 

moi, ^ I'hotel , 

le plus tot possible. 



At a Theatre Office 

170. What are they going 

to play on Friday ? 

171. Which are the best 

seats ? 

172. How much do the boxes 

cost? 

173. Give me three orches- 

tra stalls. 



Au bureau de Theatre 

170. Que jouera-t-on ven- 

dredi ? 

171. Quelles sont les meil- 

leures places ? 

172. Quel est le prix des 

loges ? 

173. Donnez-moi trois stalles 

d'orchestre. 



To discourage Beggars 
174. Go away ! 

176. I have nothing. 
176. I have no change. 



Pour rebuter les mendiants 

174. Allez-vous en ! 

175. Je n'ai rien k donner. 

176. Je n'ai pas de monnaie. 



Photographs Photographies 

177. I wish to buy some 177. Je desire des photo- 

photographs, graphics. 

178. I prefer them un- 178. Je les voudrais non 

mounted. mont^es. 

179. Have you no larger 179. N'en avez-vous pas de 

ones ? plus grand format ? 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



285 



168. Non posso aspettare 168. Langer kann ich nicht 



pm. 
169. Ecco il mio biglietto; 
fate il piacere di pre- 
gare il Signer Dot- 
tore di favorire all' 

albergo , quanto 

prima potr^. 



warten. 
169. Da ist meine Karte ; 
sagen Sie, ich liesse 
ihn bitten, sobald wie 

moglich im Hotel 

vorzukommen. 



Al Teatro 

170. Cosa si d^ il venerdi ? 

171. Quali sono i migliori 

posti ? 

172. Quanto costano i pal- 

chi? 

173. Datemi tre poltrone. 



Theater 

170. Was wird am Freitag 

gegeben ? 

171. Welches sind die besten 

Platze ? 

172. Was kosten die Logen ? 

173. Geben Sie mir drei 

Sperrsitze. 



Contro Vimportunita dei 
mendicanti 

174. Vavia! 

175. Non ho niente. 

176. Non ho spicci. 



Um den Bettlern zu wehren 

174. Machen Sie dass Sie 

f ortkommen ! 

175. Ich habe Nichts bei mir. 

176. Ich habe kein Klein- 

geld. 



Fotografie 

177. Vorrei delle fotografie. 

178. Le pref erisco non mont- 

ate. 

179. Non ne avete piu 

grandi ? 



Photographien 

177. Ich mochte einige 

Photographien. 

178. Ich mochte sie lieber 

unauf g e z ogene 
haben. 

179. Haben Sie keine 

grosseren ? 



286 



SOME USEFUL PHBASES 



180. These are too large. 



180. 



181. Are these all you have ? 181. 



182. 



183. 



How soon can you have 
some more printed ? 



Will you send them 
after me to ? 

184. Here is my address. 

185. How much will they 

cost, with the post- 
age ? 



182. 



183. 

184. 
185. 



Celles-ci sont trop 

grandes. 
Est-ce tout ce que vous 

avez ? 
Pour quand pouvez- 

vous en faire tirer 

d'autres ? 
Voulez-vous me les ex- 

p6dier k ? 

Voici mon adresse. 
Combien cotiteront- 

elles y compris I'af- 

franchissement ? 



Visits 
186. Is Mrs. C. at home ? 



Les Visites 



186. Madame C. est-elle chez 
elle? 
187. Is Mrs. C. receiving ? 187. Madame C. regoit-elle ? 



188. Please say we are sorry 188. Dites-lui que nous 
not to have seen her. sommes bien fach^es 

de ne pas 1' avoir vue. 



189. 
190. 
191. 
192. 
193. 



Courtesies, etc. 

Good morning. 
Good day. 
Good evening. 
Good night. 
Thank you. 



Accueils courtois, etc. 



194. Thank you very much. 

195. If you please (to a 

servant). 



189. 


(Not used in French.) 


190. 


Bonjour. 


191. 


Bonsoir. 


192. 


Bonne nuit. 


193. 


Merci bien. 


194. 


Bien des remerciments. 


195. 


S'il vous plait. 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



287 



180. Queste sono troppo 

grandi. 

181. Non ne avete altre ? 

182. Quando potrete tirare 

delle altre copie ? 

183. Prego mandarmele 

a ? 

184. Ecco I'indirizzo. 

186. Quanto costeranno, 
compresa la spedizi- 
one (I'affrancatura) ? 



180. Diese sind zu gross. 

181. Haben Sie keine an- 

dern? 

182. Wie bald konnen Sie 

noch welche machen 
lassen ? 

183. Konnen Sie sie mir 

nachschicken ? 

184. Da ist meine Adresse. 

185. Das Porto mit ein- 

gerechnet kosten sie 
wieviel ? 



Visite 

186. E in casa la Signora 

C. ? 

187. Riceve la Signora 

C. ? 

188. Dite che ci rincresce di 

non averla trovata. 



Besuche 

186. Ist Frau C. zu Hause ? 

187. Empfangt Frau C. 

heute ? 

188. Bitte sagen Sie, dass 

wir bedauern sie 
nicht getroffen zu 
haben. 



Cortesie, etc. 

189. (Not used in Italian.) 

190. Buon giorno. 

191. Buona sera. 

192. Buona notte. 

193. Grazie. 

194. Mille grazie. 

195. Fatemi il piacere. 



Hojtiche Anreden u.s.w. 

189. Guten Morgen. 

190. Guten Tag. 

191. Guten Abend. 

192. Gute Nacbt. 

193. Danke. Ich danke 

Ihnen. 

194. Danke bestens. 

195. Bitte. 



288 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



196. If you please (to an 

equal) . 

197. Will you be so kind as 

to 

198. I am sorry to trouble 

you. 

199. I hope I do not incon- 

venience you. 

200. Excuse me. 

201. I beg your pardon 

202. Do you mind closing 

that window ? 

203. Do you feel any 

draught ? 

204. What o'clock is it ? 

205. How long do we stop 

here ? 

206. How long will it take 

to mend this ? 

207. I do not understand. 

208. I speak only a few 

words of French. 

209. What is the name of 

this ? 

210. What is that church 

called ? 

211. What is that building ? 

212. What is your name ? 

213. I want to go to 



196. Je vous prie. 

197. Ayez la bont^ de 

198. Je suis bien f^ch^e de 

vous d^ranger. 

199. J'esp^re ne pas vous 

d^ranger. 

200. Excusez-moi. 

201. Pardon! 

202. Cela vous incommod- 

erait-il de fermer 
cette fen§tre ? 

203. Sentez-vous un courant 

d'air ? 

204. Quelle heure est-il ? 

205. Combien de temps 

s'arrete-t-on ici ? 

206. Combien de temps cela 

vous prendra-t-il k 
raccommoder ceci ? 

207. Je ne comprends pas. 

208. Je ne parle que quelques 

mots de fran9ais. 

209. Comment appelle-t-on 

cela? 

210. Comment s'appelle 

cette ^glise ? 

211. Quel est ce batiment ? 

212. Quel est votre nom ? 

213. Je voudrais aller h 



214. Listen to me. 

215. Take care ! Stop ! 

216. Who is it ? 

217. Come in ! 



214. Ecoutez-moi. 

215. Prenez garde! Arretez! 

216. Qui est-ce ? 

217. Entrez I 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



289 



196. Mi faccia la grazia. 

197. Avrebbe la compia- 

cenza di 

198. Mi rincresce di disturb- 

aiia. 

199. Non vorrei dare incom- 

modo. 

200. Scusi. 

201. Perdoni! 

202. Lei increscerebbe di 

cbiudere quella fines- 
tra? 

203. Sente corrente d'aria? 

204. Che or' h ? 

205. Quanto tempo si f erma? 

206. Quanto tempo si met- 

tevk per raccomodare 
questo ? 

207. Non capisco. 

208. Parlo pochissimo I'itali- 

ano. 

209. Come si chiama questo? 



196. Darfichbitten? (Durfte 

ich Sie bemtihen ?) 

197. Wlirden Sie so gut 

sein 

198. Ich bedaure, Sie zu 

bemtihen. 

199. Hoffentlich store ich 

Sie nicht. 

200. Entschuldigen Sie. 

201. Verzeihung. 

202. Mochten Sie jenes 

Fenster wohl schlies- 
sen? 

203. Zieht es Ihnen von 

diesem Fenster ? 

204. Wie viel Uhr ist es ? 

205. Wie lange halt man 

hier? 

206. Wie lange branchen Sie 

um dies zu flicken ? 

207. Ich verstehe nicht. 

208. Ich kann nur ein paar 

Worte des Deutschen. 

209. Wie heisst das ? 



210. Come si chiama quella 

chiesa ? 

211. Cos' b quella fabbrica? 

212. Come vi chiamate ? 

213. Vorrei andare a 



214. Seutite. 

215. Badate ! 

216. Chi 6? 

217. Avanti! 

u 



Fermatevi ! 



210. Wie heisst jene Kirche ? 

211. Was fiir ein Gebaude 

ist das ? 

212. Wie heisszen Sie ? 

213. Ich wiinsche nach 

zu gehen. 

214. Horen Sie auf. 

215. Geben Sie Achtl Haiti 

216. Wer ist cs ? 

217. Herein. 



290 SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



A 


FEW VERBS 


TO BE 


ETKB 


Present 


Fresent 


lam 


Je suis 


He, she is 


11, elle est 


We are 


Nous sommea 


You are 


Vous etes 


They are 


lis, elles sont 


Future 


Futur 


I shall be 


Je serai 


He, she will be 


11, elle sera 


We shall be 


Nous serons 


You will be 


Vous serez 


They will be 


Us, elles seront 


Fast 


Fasse 


I have been 


J'ai 6t6 


He, she has been 


11, elle a 6t6 


We have been 


Nous avons 6t6 


You have been 


Vous avez 6t^ 


They have been 


lis, elles ont 6t6 


TO HAVE 


AVOIR 


Fresent 


Present 


I have 


J'ai 


He, she has 


11, elle a 


We have 


Nous avons 


You have 


Vous avez 


They have 


Ds, elles ont 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



291 



A FEW VERBS 



ESSERE 


8EIN 


Fresente 


Frdsens 


Sono 


Ich bin 


E 


Er, sie ist 


Siamo 


Wir sind 


Siete 


Sie sind 


Sono 


Sie sind 


Futuro 


Futurum 


Sard 


Icb werde sein 


Sar^ 


Er, sie wird sein 


Saremo 


Wir werden sein 


Sarete 


Sie werden sein 


Saranno 


Sie werden sein 


Fassato 


Ferfektum 


Sonostato — stata^ 


Ich bin gewesen 


E stato — stata 


Er, sie ist gewesen 


Siamo stati — state 


Wir sind gewesen 


Siete stati 2 


Sie sind gewesen 


Sono stati 


Sie sind gewesen 


AVERS 


HABEN 


Fresente 


Frdsens 


Ho 


Ich habe 


Ha 


Er, sie bat 


Abbiamo 


Wir haben 


Avete 


Sie haben 


Hanno 


Sie haben 



1 Masculine, "stato"; feminine, "stata.* 

2 *« Stati " is correct for both genders. 



292 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



Future 

I shall have 
He, she will have 
We shall have 
You will have 
They will have 

Past — with some participles 



1. had 

2. eaten 

3. drunk 

4. seen 

5. said 

6. done 

7. ordered 

8. sent 

9. called 

10. paid 

11. left 

12. asked 

13. forgotten 

14. read 

15. spoken 

16. written 

17. lost 

18. given 



I have 
He, she has 
We have 
You have 
They have 



J'ai 

II ou elle a 
Nous avons 
Vous avez 
lis ou elles 
ont 



Futur 

J'aurai 
11, elle aura 
Nous aurons 
Vous aurez 
Us, elles auront 



Passe 

1. eu 

2. mang6 

3. bu 

4. vu 

5. dit 

6. fait 

7. command^ 

8. envoys 

9. appel6 

10. pay4 

11. laiss^ 

12. demand^ 

13. oubli^ 

14. lu 

15. parl6 

16. 6crit 

17. perdu 
.18. donn6 



TO GO 

Present 

I go 

He, she goes 
We go 
You go 
They go 



ALLER 

Present 

Je vais 
II, elle va 
Nous allons 
Vous allez 
Us, elles vont 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



293 



Futuro 



Futurum 



Ho 
Ha 

Abl 

Avete 

Hanuo 



Avr5 






Ich werde haben 


Avr^ 






Er, sie wird haben 


Avremo 






Wir werden haben 


Avrete 






Sie werden haben 


Avrannc 


» 




Sie werden haben 


Passato 




Perfektum 




' 1. 


avuto 






1. gehabt 




2. 


mangiato 






2. gegessen 




3. 


bevuto 






3. getrunken 




4. 


veduto 






4. gesehen 




5. 


detto 






5. gesagt 




6. 


fatto 






6. gethan 


mo ■ 

3 


7. 

8. 

9. 
10. 
11. 
12. 


comandato 

mandato 

chiamato 

pagato 

lasciato 

domandato 


Ich habe 
Er, sie hat 
Wirhaben ^ 
Sie haben 
sie haben 


7. bestellt 

8. geschickt 

9. gerufen 

10. bezahlt 

11. gelassen 

12. gefragt 




13. 


dimenticato 






13. vergessen 




14. 


letto 






14. gelesen 




15. 


parlato 






15. gesprochen 




16. 


scritto 






16. geschrieben 




17. 


perduto 






17, verloren 




.18. 


date 






. 18. gegeben 


ANDARB 




GEHEN 


Presente 




Prdsens 


Vado 






Ich gehe 


Va 






Er, sie geht 


Andiamo 




Wir gehen 


Andate 




Sie gehen 


\ 


''a.nno 




Sie geh 


en 



294 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



Future 
I shall go 
He, she will go 
We shall go 
You will go 
They will go 

Past 
I have gone 

He, she has gone 

We have gone 
You have gone 

They have gone 



Futur 
J'irai 
II, elle ira 
Nous irons 
Vous irez 
lis, elles iront 

Passe 
Je suis all6 — all6e ^ 

f II est all6 

1 Elle est all^e 
Nous sommes all^s — allies 
Vous etes all^s — allies 
J lis sont all^s 

I Elles sont allies 



TO COME 

Present 
I come 

He, she comes 
We come 
You come 
They come 

Future 
I shall come 
He, she will come 
We will come 
You will come 
They will come 

Past 
I have come 
He, she has come 
We have come 
You have come 

They have come 



VENIR 

Present 
Je viens 
II, elle vient 
Nous venons 
Vous venez 
lis, elles viennent 

Futur 
Je viendrai 
II, elle viendra 
Nous viendrons 
Vous viendrez 
lis, elles viendront 

Passe 
Je suis venu — venue 
II est venu — Elle est venue 
Nous sommes venus — venues 
Vous etes venus — venues 
r lis sont venus 
1 Elles sont venues 



1 Masculine aud feuiiniue. 



SOME USEFUL PHKASES 



295 



Futuro 
Andr6 
Andr^ 
Anderemo 
Anderete 
Andranno 

Passato 
Sono andato — andata ^ 

E andato — andata 

Siamo andati — andate 
Siete andati 

Sono andati 



Futurum 
Icli werde gehen 
Er, sie wird gehen 
Wir werden gehen 
Sie werden gehen 
Sie werden gehen 

Perfektum 
Ich bin gegangen 

Er, sie ist gegangen 

Wir sind gegangen 
Sie sind gegangen 

Sie sind gegangen 



VENIKB 

Presente 

Vengo 

Viene 

Veniamo 

Venite 

Veugono 

Futuro 
Verr5 
Verr^ 
Verremo 
Verrete 
Verranno 

Passato 
Sono venuto — venuta 
E venuto — venuta 
Siamo venuti — venute 
Siete venuti 

Sono venuti 



KOMMEN 

Prdsens 
Ich komme 
Er, sie kommt 
Wir kommen 
Sie kommen 
Sie kommen 

Futurum 
Ich werde kommen 
Er, sie wird kommen 
Wir werden kommen 
Sie werden kommen 
Sie werden kommen 

Perfektum 
Ich bin gekommen 
Er, sie ist gekommen 
Wir sind gekommen 
Sie sind gekommen 

Sie sind gekommen 



1 Masculine and feminine. 



296 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 





Numbers 




Nomhres 


1. 


One. 


1. 


Un. 


2. 


Two. 


2. 


Deux. 


3. 


Three. 


3. 


Trois. 


4. 


Four. 


4. 


Quatre. 


5. 


Five. 


6. 


Cinq, 


6. 


Six. 


6. 


Six. 


7. 


Seven. 


7. 


Sept. 


8. 


Eight. 


8. 


Huit. 


9. 


Nine. 


9. 


Neuf. 


10. 


Ten. 


10. 


Dix. 


11. 


Eleven. 


11. 


Onze. 


12. 


Tv^^elve. 


12. 


Douze. 


13. 


Thirteen. 


13. 


Treize. 


14. 


Fourteen. 


14. 


Quatorze. 


15. 


Fifteen. 


15. 


Quinze. 


16. 


Sixteen. 


16. 


Seize. 


17. 


Seventeen. 


17. 


Dix-sept. 


18. 


Eighteen. 


18. 


Dix-huit. 


19. 


Nineteen. 


19. 


Dix-neuf. 


20. 


Twenty. 


20. 


Vingt. 


21. 


Twenty-one. 


21. 


Vingt et un. 


22. 


Twenty-two. 


22. 


Vingt-deux. 


30. 


Thirty. 


30. 


Trente. 


40. 


Forty. 


40. 


Quarante. 


50. 


Fifty. 


60. 


Cinquante. 


60. 


Sixty. 


60. 


Soixante. 


70. 


Seventy. 


70. 


Soixante-dix. 


80. 


Eighty. 


80. 


Quatre-vingt. 


90. 


Ninety. 


90. 


Quatre-vingt-dix. 


100. 


One hundred. 


100. 


Cent. 


200. 


Two hundred. 


200. 


Deux cents. 


1,000. 


A thousand. 


1,000. 


Mille. 


2,000. 


Two thousand. 


2,000. 


Deux mille. 


,000,000. 


A million. 


1,000,000. 


Un million. 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



297 



Numeri 


Nummern 


1. Uno. 


1. Eins. 


2. Due. 


2. Zwei. 


3. Tre. 


3. Drei. 


4. Quattro. 


4. Vier. 


5. Cinque. 


5. Ftinf. 


6. Sei. 


6. Sechs. 


7. Sette. 


7. Sieben. 


8. Otto. 


8. AcM. 


9. Nove. 


9. Neun. 


10. Dieci. 


10. Zehn. 


11. Undici. 


11. Elf. 


12. Dodici. 


12. Zwolf. 


13. Tredici. 


13. Dreizehn. 


14. Quattordici. 


14. Vierzehn. 


15. Quindici. 


15. Funfzeliu. 


16. Sedici. 


16. Sechzehn. 


17. Diciassette. 


17. Siebenzehn. 


18. Diciotto. 


18. Acbtzehn. 


19. Diecinove. 


19. Neunzehn. 


20. Venti. 


20. Zwanzig. 


21. Vent'uno. 


21. Einundzwanzig. 


22. Venti-due. 


22. Zweiundzwanzig. 


30. Trenta. 


30. Dreissig. 


40. Quaranta. 


40. Vierzig. 


60. Cinquanta. 


50. Ftinfzig. 


60. Sessanta. 


60. Sechzig. 


70. Settanta. 


70. Siebenzig. 


80. Ottanta. 


80. Achtzig. 


90. Novanta. 


90. Neunzig. 


100. Cento. 


100. Hundert. 


200. Due cento. 


200. Zweihundert. 


1,000. Mille. 


1,000. EinTausend. 


2,000. Duemila. 


2,000. Zwei Tausend 


,000,000. Millione. 


1000,000. Eine Million. 



298 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



Days of the Week 


Jours de la Semaine 


1. Sunday. 


1. Dimanche. 


2. Monday. 


2. Lundi. 


3. Tuesday. 


3. Mardi. 


4. Wednesday. 


4. Mercredi. 


6. Thursday. 


5. Jeudi. 


6. Friday. 


6. Vendredi. 


7. Saturday. 


7. Samedi. 


Months 


Les Mois 


1, January. 


1. Janvier. 


2. February. 


2. F^vrier. 


3. March. 


3. Mars. 


4. April. 


4. Avril. 


5. May. 


6. Mai. 


6. June. 


6. Juin. 


7. July. 


7. Juillet. 


8. August. 


8. Aout. 


9. September. 


9. Septembre. 


10. October. 


10. Octobre. 


11. November. 


11. Novembre. 


12. December. 


12. D^cembre. 


Seasons 


Les Saisons 


1. Spring. 


1. Le printemps. 


2. Summer. 


2. L'^t6. 


3. Autumn. 


3. L'automne. 


4. Winter. 


4. L'hiver. 


Festivals 


Fetes 


1. Advent. 


1. L'Avent. 


2. Christmas. 


2. Noel. 


3. Epiphany. 


3. L'Epiphanie (Jour des 




Kois). 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



299 



Giorni delta Settimana 

1. Domenica. 

2. Lunedi. 

3. Martedi. 

4. Mercoledi. 

5. Giovedi. 

6. Venerdi. 

7. Sabato. 



Die Tage der Woche 

1. Sonntag. 

2. Moiitag. 

3. Dienstag. 

4. Mittwoch. 
6. Donnerstag. 

6. Freitag. 

7. Sonnabend (Samstag). 



Mese 

1. Gennaio. 

2. Febbraio. 

3. Marzo. 

4. Aprile. 

5. Maggio. 

6. Giugno. 

7. Luglio. 

8. Agosto. 

9. Settembre. 

10. Ottobre. 

11. Novembre. 

12. Dicembre. 



Die Monate 



1. Januar. 

2. Februar. 

3. Marz. 

4. April. 
6. Mai, 

6. Juni. 

7. Juli. 

8. August. 

9. September. 

10. October. 

11. November. 

12. Dezember. 



Stagioni 

1. La prim a vera. 

2. L' estate. 

3. L'autunno. 

4. L'inverno. 



Die Jahreszeiten 

1. Der Frtihling. 

2. Der Sommer. 

3. Der Herbst. 

4. Der Winter. 



Giorni di Festa 

1 . Avvento. 

2. Natale. 

3. Epifania. 



Die Kirchenfeste 

1. Advent. 

2. Weihnachten (Christ- 

tag). 

3. Epiphania (Erscheinung 

Christi) . 



300 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



4. Shrove Tuesday. 

5. Ash Wednesday. 

6. Lent. 

7. Holy Week. 

8. Good Friday. 

9. Easter. 

10. Ascension. 

11. Whitsunday. 

12. Assumption (Aug. 15). 

13. Corpus Christi. 

14. All Saints' Day (Nov. 1) . 

15. All Souls' Day (Nov. 2). 



4. Mardi Gras. 

5. Mercredi des Cendres. 

6. Le Careme. 

7. La Semaine Sainte. 

8. Vendredi-Saint. 

9. Paques. 

10. L'Ascencion. 

11. Pentecdte. 

12. L'Assomption. 

13. La Fete-Dieu. 

14. La Toussaint. 

15. Jour des Ames (Jour des 

Morts). 



SOME USEFUL PHRASES 



301 



4. Martedi grasso. 

6. Le Ceneri. 

6. Qiiaresima. 

7. La Settimana Santa. 

8. Venerdi Santo. 

9. Pasqua. 

10. Ascenzione. 

IL Pentecoste. 

12. Assunta. 

13. Corpus Domini. 

14. Ognissanti. 

15. Giorno del Morti. 



4. Fastnacht. 

5. Aschermittwoch. 

6. Fasten. 

7. Charwoche. 

8. Cliarfreitag. 

9. Ostein. 

10. Himmelfahrt. 

11. Pfingsten. 

12. Maria Himmelfahrt. 

13. Frohnleichnam. 

14. Aller Heiligen. 

15. Aller Seelen. 



HOW WOMEN MAY EARN 
A LIVING 

A Handbook of Occupations for "Women 
By HELEN CHURCHILL CANDEE 



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66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK 



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Modem Scientific Methods for the Sick Room 
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THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 

66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK 



